@majordennisbloodnok our swap out install finished around 1pm

@jamespa pics showing status pages, level 1 parameters and level 2 parameters

Software version seems to be dated 2023-03-24

@jamespa factory menus;

Peak Energy Products most recent accounts (to June 2024) make interesting reading.  Im not an expert by any means, but their assets are almost entirely 'inventory' and their liabilities include a debt for £300K to their only director which is 'repayable on demand'.  Net assets are just £9K.  The debt 'repayable on demand' (ie at the convenience of the director) worries me given that if payment is demanded it could easily be enough to bankrupt the company.  Unfortunately there is no I&E so we have no idea what the turnover is, but 400K inventory is quite a lot of kit.

On a more practical note there are some parameters in those menus that look interesting, but its a bit difficult to be precisely sure what they do.  An 11kW heat pimp should be big enough for most properties if it really is 11kW; consumption suggests it may not be.

I will take a mpore detailed look at menus and numbers over the next couple of days and see if anything leaps out, meanwhile we now have two owners on this thread so hopefully a bit of self-help will resolve.

Thanks @jamespa and thanks @johnd (hope I haven’t hijacked your thread too much).

I’ll hopefully hear back from our installer or the manufacturer early next week and will post if there’s anything useful.

Just wondering now if we are undersized or have a faulty unit causing the issues for us, the symptoms for us do appear to point to an undersized unit.

However with 11kw + 3kw heat coming into the house it should be more than enough to keep us warm, when the initial heat loss calculation by the installer came out at 7kw and the HeatGeek website guesstimate shows 8.5kw heat loss.

Unless the 11kw unit as mentioned above isn’t actually producing 11kw of heat. Or we somehow need more than 14kw of heat input into the house.

Should we consider getting a second opinion from another company to recheck the heat loss calcs, potentially with a HeatGeek certified installer?

Posted by: @davec

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Should we consider getting a second opinion from another company to recheck the heat loss calcs, potentially with a HeatGeek certified installer?

At this stage I would say no as gross underestimation of the loss is not the most likely cause of the problem.

More likely causes are

(a) the heat pump, though badged 11kW, doesnt actually do 11kW at the design temperature/flow temp - I reproduce the only published capacity table below but Im not sure if its for the relevant model and there doesnt seem to be anything else.

(b) the heat pump is faulty

(c) something in the system is preventing the heat getting to the building.  There is a long running thread on this forum where the householder (one of our moderators) was not getting sufficient heat - turned out eventually to be due to throttling at the PHE.

If you could provide a bit more info it might be possible to infer which

The following questions will give an independent handle on house loss:

• What is the floor area, construction and insulation of your house
• How much fuel did you previously burn annually 
• Where are you roughly

The following question will give a handle on faults/system problems

• How much energy did you use for your heat pump on the recent cold days?

@davec

Ive had a look at the screenshots.  Lots of the parameters are things you wouldn't want to touch but:

Im guessing H43 and H44 are the two FTs for the WC curve and P18 and P19 the corresponding OATs.  What P20 is, or even what the units are, is anyone's guess.  I imagine some kind of 'strength of room influence' parameter, but it could be anything!  And what is F74 - is it some overall? limit (65 would make sense for an R32 unit which I believe this is).

With P18 set at 0 FT will likely (but not definitely) flatline at lower OATs which isnt what you want.  However you would expect it to flatline at 52C if my guess about H43 and H44 is correct.

P15 is interesting.  Its turned on.  Is it just 'Weather compensation on' or some sort of 'auto adapt'.  At first I though the second, but maybe Im over-thinking and its just fixed temp[ operation vs weather compensated operation.  It would be interesting to know what the heat pump does if its turned off.

This is also interesting    

Im presuming you have set the target to 40C to 'disable' and room influence, but why does it think that the house is at 32C?  or is this set FT and actual FT, in which case why is the set FT 40 when the OAT is 0?

Maybe you have some insight from observation which might help reverse-engineer the UI!