@papahuhu I understand that quite common for them not to make clear the minimum output. I think 30-35% of the badged output is about average

@old_scientist 

That makes sense then, thanks, I’ve learnt something new. So it is the definitive OAT measurement, it’s incidental that it happens to be used in frost related calcs. 
Always nice to know how something works or you won’t know when it isn’t. Samsung must intentionally limit the information in the public domain, I guess for commercial and IP protection.

@papahuhu Samsung are far from unique in that regard; the attitude of some companies is that ’It is dangerous for the owner to know anything about the product - other than how to turn it on and off’! Even smart controller manufacturers sometimes fall for this fallacy. Toodles.

@toodles Don’t get me started on car headlight bulbs!

Posted by: @papahuhu

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@old_scientist 

That makes sense then, thanks, I’ve learnt something new. So it is the definitive OAT measurement, it’s incidental that it happens to be used in frost related calcs. 
Always nice to know how something works or you won’t know when it isn’t. Samsung must intentionally limit the information in the public domain, I guess for commercial and IP protection.

@papahuhu Yes, good information is often hard to find, but Samsung have made some information publicly available. Sarah Hanson (a Samsung owner) wrote an excellent technical analysis on the Anatomy of a Defrost for Samsung heat pumps which is well worth a read.

@old_scientist 

Thank you, yes I’d skimmed that looking to identify my probe. The control logic makes sense. It’s complicated for a small footprint compared to what I’m used to, I left any technical involvement with process control about the same time as the Allen Bradley PLC5 was commercialised in the mid 80s.

I don’t even have any significant output data/ trends to understand why my system is misbehaving nor am I convinced that my installer is in any better position than I to do so. Particularly frustrating when it should be unnecessary in the first place. 

@toodles 

May I ask a question please as I’m trying to diagnose what’s going on with the homely.

When I turn off the power to the outside unit (via the isolator) I was trying to reset the modbus board, I don’t get any error on the homely app or or homely control box. All the LEDs are indicating that it’s perfectly fine and heating as normal. 
I do get a comms error on my heat pump controller.

That seems anomalous to me, the homely is indicating it’s heating when it physically isn’t. At the very least I’d have expected a fault condition on the LEDs. Have you ever tried this please? 

@papahuhu Err, no I haven’t! I suspect that this may be linked with ‘Polling’ and perhaps @majordennisbloodnok may be able to throw more light on this situation. I suspect that as the comms for the heat pump are indicating a comms error, then no data is being passed to Homely - under this condition I suspect that the Homely algorithm is waiting for a status change but because it cannot ‘Poll’ the non functioning comms, it sits there awaiting a change in data. I may be talking absolute carp but the Major is far more clued up on modbussery than I. Me, I am just guessing!

It may or may not be of interest to you but recently my MyEnregi Eddi died on me, took out the fuse in the spur providing power and also the circuit breaker tripped out. Now, the same spur provides the power for the secondary pump and the Homely kit. My Daikin heat pump (on a separate breaker) continued to heat the primary pipework but of course the lack of flow to the radiators fed via the LLH just went cold. As soon as I restored power to the spur, Homely woke up as if nothing had happened and the secondary pump provided warm water to the radiators. When I later checked the plot on the Homely Connect app, the time represented by the outage just showed as blank. Regards, Toodles.

@toodles 

Thanks

ive always wondered about those solar hot water diverters. I can understand the logic if you do it prior to having a heat pump, but when folks do it after or concurrently with  a heat pump i don’t get it. Surely it’s more efficient to use excess solar to heat your hot water with the heat pump rather than a heating element. Even if you heat your hot water on a cheap overnight grid supply, it still makes sense to use a heat pump if you have one. 

@papahuhu The hang-up was not the Heat Pump side of things but the ginourimity of the water tank as required for a 4 bedroomed house. The Sunamp Thermino ePC210 is the equivalent of a 210 litre tank; the standard DHW tanks are too portly to fit and the ‘slimline’ tanks are too tall to fit in our airing cupboard. We didn’t wish to lose the corner of another room and have all the attendant additional pipework and heat losses to have the tank elsewhere and don’t really have a suitable elsewhere anyway! HT heat pumps were few and far between at that time and we had not long installed the solar panels anyway. It seemed a good idea to have a diverter in the airing cupboard which is where the Sunamp is situated. As the tariff varies, I have had times where we use off-peak grid power and export the solar energy and at other times, it has been better to use the solar energy to power the heat battery. The inescapable point being that the Sunamp is MUCH smaller than a conventional tank and fits in the airing cupboard nicely. Regards, Toodles.

@toodles That’s very fancy. Yes we couldn’t fit ours in the airing cupboard either. 
Thats another installer grumble of mine, but will have a complaining free Sunday afternoon. Now I have reset my comms and corrected a small settings error they made, I’m going to have another try on smart mode, just in case it has fixed the weather comp. Won’t be long till my hopes are in tatters.

@papahuhu My experience of Smart+ was that though this category added a few extra options, it did nothing to allow greater individual control of the heating preferences - more a case ‘if you select Smart+, we will ensure that your comfort setting is the minimum setting but we may well drift up a degree or two above this under some circumstances.’ I found these ‘circumstances’ related to overheating the fabric of the building during cheapest rate tariffs so as to reduce heating later thus saving money but not energy. Not using Smart+ denies other options such as the temperature tolerance (what I would regard as hysteresis really). As I use OE’s Cosy but have 27 kWh’s of storage, I didn’t feel the overheating of the fabric of the building (a little uncomfortable anyway) to be of great value to us. Regards, Toodles.