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Samsung Heat Pump – Can't Activate TW2 Pipe Sensor (for Delta T Control)

bubuontheweb · 2025-10-06T11:06:45Z

Hello all, I hope someone can help. I have a Samsung split heat pump installed, outdoor unit AE090RXEDEG, indoor AE200RNWSEG. Underfloor heating only. A 100 L buffer is installed, where the out and in water pipes for heating are connected. There is a recirculation pump mounted on the pipe which is going to the floor distributor. Heat pump set to work with water law. I believe the pump is oversized for the houses' heat requirements, as it has a lot of on/off cycles. I wanted to mount one of the external sensor which came with the pump (blue wire one) on the pipe which is leaving the buffer tank. The problem is I can't seem to figure out where do i connect the wires on the PCB. According to the manual, this sensor is TW2 - which has to be connected to connector 17 and 18. I did that but i don't see anything I can change in the service menu to account for it, also in the self test mode, there is no sensor displayed. The reason why i wanted to add this sensor, is that the difference between water out and in is max 1 degree, even though the delta T is set to 5. I assume the water from the buffer is cycling between out and in of heat pump, mixing the "hot" and "cold". I was hoping that by reading this temperature, the DELTA T would actually be close to 5 and heat pump cycling will not be so frequent.

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Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHPs)

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bubuontheweb

(@bubuontheweb)

Active Member Member

Joined: 9 months ago

Posts: 7

Topic starter 04/07/2026 5:56 am

So... after 2 frustrating years, with a COP of 2, for a house with underfloor heating and very good insulation, I finally found the issue (or issues)

1- the smallest issue, which generates a delta T of 1 or 2 - the "plumber" mixed the supply and return from the heat pump to the puffer... supply is in the lower part and the return on the higher part, when leaving the puffer they are in the correct place, supply is up and return is down... so... the water is really mixing in the puffer 😀 😀 - this issue i have not fixed yet, it's on my ToDo list

2. the BIG issue - the "engineer" (electropainter - explained below) who made the connections between the outside and inside units of the heat pump, did not do a proper job and was losing refrigerant since the beginning... a proper engineer came by yesterday and it seems i had no more refrigerant... now it's fixed and after 12 hours in cooling mode i have a COP of 6.... I have NEVER seen this COP on my heat pump, NEVER, maximum was 2.5, in the beginning...

I have no words, I don't know if I should laugh or cry...

There are 2 saying in romanian which fit my use case:

- what i learned recently: "I am too poor to be cheap" - i'll never work with cheap people, it will eventually cost you double or triple, better find competent workers which have a higher price

- "electropainter" handyman (in romanian - electrozugrav) - a guy which does something for 1 year, with no proper learning and is now advertising himself as a specialist.... thats with what specimens i worked initially...

I'll come back with an update again, after a few months.

I hope this helps others... don't make the mistakes I did, better pay more for a good worker (regardless for what) than go for the cheap ones and have to repair what they did, it will cost more!

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