@catapult just on flow rate I believe the aim is 2 x the KW of your system so 16 x 2 =32 so you are thereabouts. Although I've actually turned my flow rate down to around 20lpm (I'm all rads btw) and I get a better delta T. Although my system, as you have likely already read, wasn't installed all that well.

@craig1980 ha, are any of them?

Well ours was on an Eco4 grant so they definitely just slapped it in and legged it. 😩🙄

@william1066 thanks for sharing. All makes sense. Nice to know others are going through the same tinkering, though I'm jealous of your graph! How do you take the readings, daily off the monitor, or do you have a remote system?

We have the hot water at 50 at the moment. Might be a mutiny if I tried 48. I'm tempted to just turn it off after the morning showers and see what happens to the kw....

Water flow in the rads is currently at 38 degrees and using 1.8kw according to the "instantaneous" reading on the monitor. Not sure how accurate that is, but would be 43kw/day which seems more reasonable.

@catapult my flow temp is 28-31 normally and that sits me at 18-19 degrees 24/7 all on rads. I'd imagine you should be much lower than that with underfloor heating. Unless you're aiming for higher room temp but I'd still expect lower flow temps. 

I'd bet £5 you could turn the water down to 48 and no one would notice. I'm a long, hot shower guy and didn't think 48 would cut it. There's no way I could turn the shower to full hot. 

@catapult 

I’m pretty sure that black thing in your pic is a magnetic water trap.  Strong magnets inside pick up bits of circulating rust flaking off from inside radiators - a good thing, as otherwise they get stuck in a heat exchanger, making it less efficient.  The magnetic waste can generally be easily removed every now and then.

@robl it definitely is.

Posted by: @catapult

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How do you take the readings, daily off the monitor, or do you have a remote system?

For now off the controller UI, manually put it in a spreadsheet.  I have installed the modbus adapter in the unit outside, just not had a chance to connect it up yet it is on the todo list.

I worked out the COP and usage/generation for the last few days. The weather turned on Jan 14 (from 10-12 degree high to 0-4 degree high), so perhaps that explains some of it. I changed the WC on Jan 19 (and also bled the rads).

Not as great as @william1066, but improving.

I tried turning down the thermostat last night from 11pm to 4 am by one degree. It took 7 hours to regain that 1 degree.... but Kw did go down quite a lot in total. House needs to be warm at 8am to stop people putting fan heaters on, so I'll try out a set back from 10pm to 1am next.

Also turned the hot water down to 48 degrees (shhhh). Let's see if anyone notices...

I found the heat loss calcs. House size 230sqm.

For space heating the house requires 26,479 kwh/yr. The HP is expected to consume 7,653kw/yr with a SCOP of 3.46.

For hot water the demand is 3,496kwh/yr. HP is expected to consume 1748kwh/yr (plus 515 from immersion) for SCOP of 1.75.

Is this good or bad? Any other numbers I need to find?

Edited: that's at a flow temp of 55 degrees and outside air temp of -1.8 degrees.

Posted by: @craig1980

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@catapult I'm not really sure if you can see how often the hot water turns on. Mine has always been on a schedule. 

Schedule is dead easy to set up. Probably worth a try. 

Does using the schedule override DHW heating the rest of the time? Or do you change the "temp to start heating" so low that it never heats, until the schedule comes round again? We only really need 3 showers between 7 and 10am. Not bothered about the temp the rest of the time as it's just for hand washing.

@catapult schedule overides the water heating. Mine heats up once for 1.5 hrs (often doesn't take that long) at 3am on our cheaper rate electric. When we get up the hot water is usually at least 48 degrees. We both have showers and there is still enough to wash up later and other small jobs with hot water through the day. You can set several on/off schedules.