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A2A vs A2W: Which Heat Pump Would You Pick? Poll is created on Nov 24, 2025

  
  
  
  

A2A vs A2W: Which Heat Pump Would You Pick?

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(@ashp-bobba)
Prominent Member Member Professional Installer
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 471
 

Posted by: @etchedpixels

@ashp-bobba I thought England now allowed 2 on a detached house ?

That is true for the last few months when they updated the rules for permitted development but its not just detached homes that have A2A, also many homes including non detached have more than one and hope they never get caught.

 


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Batpred
(@batpred)
Noble Member Member
Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 928
 

Posted by: @escapist

Newbie and my brain hurts.

1970s detached extended bungalow, initially working towards air to water, calculated heat loss 5.37.

Two distinct zones  between original building older cavity wall insulation and good loft insulation, and extension/living area which has underfloor insulation new cavity wall insulation and a lot of glass and solar gain(it’s a vaulted garden room with velux and two mostly glass walls ).

Eleven rooms all with rads mostly doubles all on microbore with the garden room rads piped under the concrete floor.

Heating is oil, grant blueflame + OSO cylinder all 4 years old and pretty efficient.

We want to get rid of oil and until recently thought air to water(vaillant7/8kWh). Cost to us between £7/8k using BUS including re pipe on all but the stuff in the concrete, pump, new cylinder(which pains me) and all controls etc.

However by chance I came across several YouTubers with actual living experience of air to air and I’m very interested and due to have a survey in 2 weeks.

...

We are having a 12/13kWh solar array +11/12kWh storage installed in a few weeks.

We live in Pembrokeshire so other than the occasional Beast from the East event, very temperate climate.

At the moment air to air looks the firm favourite.

Thank you for sharing all the details.

Oil is the obvious one needing quicker replacement given the price hikes and the gov is hiking the BUS grant for it. Microbore is bound to be the one pushing your estimate higher.  

I would challenge the new cylinder, assuming yours is mains pressure.. Heat Geek can provide their own 5 yr warranty (with their own tanks, but maybe worth enquiring). I could be wrong but Vaillant apparently reduce the warranty cover if other cylinders are used. I found Mitsubishi R290 would also fit our requirements and they seemed less fussy. 

The 11/12 kwh energy storage capacity you are having seems tight (in the coldest days) but it should help if you use a Cosy type TOU tariff with a typical 3 lower cost periods.

In any case, with an ASHP and properly sized pipework and rads, you should expect a much more evenly heated house!

Personally, in case the electricity supply has been reliable, I would take the BUS grant and remove the oil boiler. And I could always have it ready to use a generator for extra peace of mind. 

Curious to know what the price would be for A2A in an 11 room bungalow, will they be able to run pipework to the internal units around the loft?

Hope that helps! 

 


This post was modified 16 hours ago by Batpred

8kW Solis S6-EH1P8K-L-PLUS hybrid inverter; G99: 8kw export; 16kWh Seplos Fogstar battery; Ohme Home Pro EV charger; 100Amp head, HA lab on mini PC


   
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