@derek-m sorry I don't think I made myself clear. The rads were getting zero hot water even though the buffer tank engaged etc. I think as DHW wasn't reaching temp and that wasn't off for long 

@lfranklin My Samsung will try to heat DHW for 60 mins. If it can't achieve set point in that time it reverts back to heating mode and the immersion appears to take over. I think this is user configurable to some extent.

I only discovered this after a fault on mine last week, when it was on constantly but producing water only at 30°, with the house failing to get to 18°. There's another thread entirely here so I won't detract from your own. 

@dunlorn can you add link please so can take a look 🙂

Posted by: @dunlorn

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I think this is user configurable to some extent.

You are correct "sort of use controllable" ... what actually happens depends on what target  temperature you set, whether you enable the booster heater or not and what DHW mode you have the system in.  How much priority the heating gets vs DHW, at what point the element is configured to come in and "save" the heat pump etc.

  Pages 30-35 in the "user" manual.  Some details on whether the booster heater is used (the element) is detailed on page 33.  With a "pathetic" attempt to explain this in a chart on page 34.

I am off to work now but can try to translate these pages into something understandable tonight.

@lfranklin Hi, not drafted it yet. Issue still ongoing and not sure what I can offer by way of learning yet. Upshot is both master and slave units are being replaced. Installed Feb 22! Not entirely sure of cause but one has refrigerant leak. Installer and Joule/Samsung are on it though and sorting replacements rapidly without issue.

@william1066 I would really appreciate that. I only have the Samsung book from the heat pump itself that the installer left in box of rubbish... all of which looks pretty much greek to me, not user friendly version.

Posted by: @lfranklin

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@derek-m sorry I don't think I made myself clear. The rads were getting zero hot water even though the buffer tank engaged etc. I think as DHW wasn't reaching temp and that wasn't off for long 

It had been a long day and I think I mixed you up with someone else.

Could you please confirm that the leaking expansion vessel that you mentioned previously has been replaced and that your system is pressurised, with all the air removed.

We can then try to go through your system operation in a logical and systematic manner.

1. @derek-m yes the vessel (buffer I think new one says) was exchanged and is fully pressurised and have checked system fully for any air.

Posted by: @derek-m

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We can then try to go through your system operation in a logical and systematic manner.

@lfranklin - there is definitely two (or potentially more) components to this, and as Derek said, being systematic will speed things up.  From what I can determine in the thread, there are a whole bunch of things that need addressing.  My summary is as follows.

1. can hear expansion vessel working and its very annoying when trying to sleep
2. struggling with system not heating two rads on the system
3. added a second pump onto the return side of the system trying to fix problem 2 above and that seemed to help for a few hours when first installed but now not coming back on again
4. if i turn the TRV off on others earlier in the system off the last two do get warm but even then not hot
5. We had solar installed at the time too (16 x 405w panels) and even that isn't working right at just 1-1.8kwh per day generation at the moment
6. wired remote controller showing water pump and some other bits and a very high heat water temp on main front screen even though heating has been off
7. heating stopped all together today despite pump running and eating lots of electric!
8. DHW not getting up to temp and so not letting the radiators have hot water

1,2,3,4 and 8 could be combined into a single group, which is likely [mostly] plumbing rather than heat pump settings related. (with the caveat that for heat pumps you should be going for warm radiators, not hot radiators)

Item 5 probably needs its own thread on this forum.

6 is likely config/understanding of the Samsung Gen6 system operation

7 probably a mixture of hive, samsung settings, plumbing

I can probably help with 6, the rest, not so much.

Posted by: @lfranklin

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I'm even more confused by the spikes now as we were out so heating has been off all day and for some reason it has still spiked?? Any ideas?

I went into the loft at as could hear the bloody thing running through bedroom ceiling and it was showing water pump and some other bits and a very high heat water temp on main front screen

-- Attachment is not available -- -- Attachment is not available --

. why is this happening (and so often) and how can I tweak settings to stop it?

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@lfranklin  If your hot water tank is in your loft and your loft is cold, then the noise you hear at night is probably the water in your hot water tank being heated up every time it cools down due to heat loss from the pipes coming from the hot water cylinder. My cylinder is in my porch and when it is freezing outside it can lose 15 deg C in 3.5 hours ( as happened yesterday when I boosted it to 60 deg C for legionella sterilisation). Repeatedly heating a 170 L tank from 45 deg C to 50 deg C, every time it cools down by 5 degrees would need close to 1 kWh of energy every hour. At a COP of 2 that means a consumption of 0.5 kWh every hour. That soon adds up.

The best solution is to schedule the domestic hot water to be heated once or twice a day and remain off for the rest of the day. I schedule ours to come on at 21.30 and go off at 22.00, so my wife has a nice warm bath. The flow temperature usually goes up to 60 deg C to heat the domestic hot water to 50 deg C. I have a 170L tank so it only takes 20-25 minutes to heat it from 20 deg C to 50 deg C. The photos in your original post confirm that the heat pump was heating your domestic hot water.

I would also check if Greener Living has used 9mm thickness pipe insulation and if so, replace with 19mm thickness pipe insulation.

You will also have a 4 pipe 50 L buffer tank, which will make your system less efficient and cost you more. That's another story.

@mike-h that's exactly my consumption spike overnight. Can you talk me through how I set timer please?

I have hive for heating it's just the bloody hot water I need to control. 

We tend to have showers daily and a weekly bath perhaps if we feel achy that's it so other than doing dishes we don't need masses of really really hot water.

We also have 1.7L tank 

@lfranklin 

On the wired remote controller, press the cogwheel icon, once to wake it up and the second time to go to the next screen. Then select schedule and add a schedule for DHW. Add one to start it and one to stop it. 

you also need to check that your immersion heater element is not being used to heat your domestic hot water. The default setting is only 20 minutes. This means that if the heat pump hasn’t got your water up to temperature within 20 minutes then the more expensive immersion heater will be used to finish the job. You can change this by going into service mode and changing FSV 3032. 

it is also worth getting a solar diverter, if you haven’t got one already. This will divert excess electricity generated by your solar panels from going back to the grid and put the electricity into the immersion heater in your hot water tank.

mine has put nearly 4 kWh of energy into the hot water tank today as it’s so sunny and heated the domestic hot water to 52°C