Turning TRVs down to zero on all rads but the one that has no air nor water. After a while opening the bleeding valve on problem tad right open some water eventually came out so suspect a tonne of air or theres a blockage on this small Eskimo rad.

Anyone got any tips on an airlocked radiator? This one seems to be having issues

@crimson I don’t know what the experts might do but, when a radiator is plumbed in, it is ‘dry’ containing just air and filling is accomplished by opening the air vent at the top and then allowing it to gradually fill with water from the flow pipe. If you completely drain the offending radiator and then gradually fill it until water exits from the air vent - might this do the trick? Please note: I’m not a plumber, an expert or an installer but from observing radiators being filled in my own home, this is my suggestion. I’d be interested in any comments from those more knowledgable amongst us please. Regards, Toodles.

Thanks @toodles, Im awaiting the installers to get back to me (seemingly gone back to radio silence).

I’ve altered the WC to be as follows:

That’s 36C at 7C.

Currently temps seem to be around 19.5-20C in the living rooms like this.

note this is 3C above design at -3C.

How “bad” is this? I need to feed back to architect about current state. I suspect to get to temp I’d need to push to 45C and min temp of 30C. Which is well above design. Not really sure where to go with this, rads were doubled in output, hallway tripled essentially.

Still cycles often, but that small rad seemingly air-locked I cant imagine helps

@crimson A raise in flow temperature to 45 deg. C should not be too disastrous - my system hits the low 40’s some of the time on colder days and I think the highest I have observed was approx. 48 deg. C when it was -7 OAT. 45 deg. C is usually an acceptable temperature for LT heat pumps. Regards, Toodles.

Yeah, I’m just concerned that the design of the system is 40C at -3C ambient, if I keep pushing up percentage wise I’m getting quite above that and wonder if its simply rads are still undersized - which means their heat loss calculations are still far off for those rooms

I've created a separate thread to discuss WC settings as feel that's a more specific topic.

Still waiting on installers to come and sort that airlocked rad.  Over a chat with one of the installers checked underfloor and other zones to ensure nothing up there.  Something that I realised is the flow setter in the plant room looks black now.

Certainly wasn't like that before.  And I keep finding air in the LLH, and rads upstairs at the front and any towel rads.  Yesterday bleeding some rads upstairs, produced some rusty looking orange water.  Mentioned to installer and he said they hot flushed the system when did the upsize not long ago and put in inhibiter so not sure why that's happened.

Here are photos of the flow setter (ignore the level it was taken when things weren't quite right) before, and now (with it black)