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ASHP User Interface gone blank
The User interface went blank last night. It seems the unit is working sporadically but not in accordance with previously set times and temps. Could it be something to do with electrical supply just interface?
Welcome to the forums. Can you provide a bit more information (brand, model, etc.) and maybe provide a photo? Is the heat pump still working and it's just the panel that's gone off?
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@editor It's a Daikin Altherma ASHP, 9 years old. User Interface just blank. ASHP still running but occasionally and not at set temps or times, or so it appears. One of the cables going into the house from the pump appears to have been chewed, see images its the grey one that's chewed.
That certainly looks like rodent damage. We have been overrun with rats this winter. I seem to have used the world's supply of rat bait. They even ate the bait station and the bait in the feed shed.
I think that cable will need replaced. You should tape over the damage temporarily to prevent more water ingress.
Bizarrely the heat pump is still working.
🔥 Britain’s Heat Pump Shitshow
How Installing a Heating System Became a National Nervous Breakdown
Free UK shipping.
📗 Heat Pumps Explained
A Jargon-Free Guide for Homeowners
Rewritten and updated for 2027
📘 From Zero to Heat Pump Hero
🛠️ Bodge Buster
New to heat pumps?
Take the Heat Pump Fundamentals course and use INTRO50 at checkout for 50% off.
Posted by: @editorBizarrely the heat pump is still working.
not a massive surprise. if the external unit has power but no comms to the internal unit, and it knows that its "cold out", one might reasonably suppose that its it'll be running some kind of self-protection mode. keep warm keep system from freezing type of thing. It might even have an automated "run in heat until flow temp reaches some pre-determined failsafe value".
the chewed cable looks like its the comms cable between outdoor and indoor unit/controller , totally explains loss of control panel . It carries only a low voltage control signals - so relatively un-scary to replace. Putting it in conduit would probably be a good idea! Given that its wired via the isolator box, the system would still need to be powered down at the MCB/RCB/RCBO that'll be upstream of the isolator in order to make it safe to open the isolator casing.
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