Antifreeze top up for my heat pump - is this a rip off?
The company that installed my ASHP went bust and was clearly a bit dodgy! I was left no information about the antifreeze used originally.
The ASHP had been working fine for a couple of years. Had it serviced by a company yesterday. The guy, who seemed genuine, said the antifreeze was low so needed topping up, but unless he knew what type it was he would have to drain the whole system, because there might be a chemical reaction. He said we would send a quote.
Does this sound right or am I potentially being ripped off?
Welcome to the forums Sally. To answer your query, it’s important to know that there are two different types of system additives that might be in your heat pump circuit and we need to know which one he’s talking about:
- Inhibitor: this is a corrosion inhibitor used to protect the metal components inside your system (pipes, rads, heat exchangers, etc.). It doesn’t provide any protection against freezing… it’s purely there to reduce the risk of rust, scale and sludge build-up.
- Glycol (antifreeze): this is used to lower the freezing point of the water in your system if any pipework is outside or in unheated spaces. Most glycols also contain inhibitor as part of the mix, so you often get both in one product.
There are two main types of glycol:
- Ethylene glycol: slightly more efficient thermally, but toxic, so more commonly used in sealed systems.
- Propylene glycol: less efficient but non-toxic, and often preferred for domestic settings.
Now, on to testing and answering your question.
If your engineer said the antifreeze level was low, the correct way to confirm that would have been with a refractometer which is a small handheld tool that reads the glycol concentration by placing a drop of fluid on the lens and checking the reading. It tells you roughly what the freeze protection level is (e.g., down to -10C or -20C). It’s a quick and reliable way to check whether you actually have glycol in the system and if it needs topping up.
Did you see him use one? If not, it’s worth asking what he based his assessment on. To my knowledge this is the only way to verify glycol concentration. If you didn’t observe him doing this, he didn’t check for it.
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Thank you for your detailed response.
So if I don’t know what type it is, is it necessary to drain the system before topping up?
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Posted by: @editorEthylene glycol: slightly more efficient thermally, but toxic, so more commonly used in sealed systems.
Sorry that isn't correct, it may be used in vehicles, but has zero place in a domestic heating system. An issue with a cylinder heating coil you can end poisoning the house in a worst case.
Bigger question is do you need antifreeze? My answer is no. You don't even need antifreeze valves.
I really wouldn't worry to much.
I changed to VDI 2035, which is very clean water, no additional additives. No anti freeze valves or antifreeze in water. We get -9 outside temperature in winter. No issues to date.
Posted by: @sallylbut unless he knew what type it was he would have to drain the whole system, because there might be a chemical reaction.
Pretty unlikely. Just top up you wish with heating system antifreeze from Screwfix. To test drain a little (half cup) from heating system into a cup, add same amount of Screwfix antifreeze mix and leave overnight. If its looking the same it's ok, if it's changed colour, gone thick or any other change maybe not compatible.
Posted by: @AnonymousSorry that isn't correct, it may be used in vehicles, but has zero place in a domestic heating system. An issue with a cylinder heating coil you can end poisoning the house in a worst case.
It may have no place in domestic heating, but it has been used.
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This is what is used in nearly all ASHP system that have glycol.
Professional installer. Book a one-to-one consultation for pre- and post-installation advice, troubleshooting and system optimisation.
If they have used the wrong antifreeze you would want it taken out, if they used one of the 3 most popular monopropylene glycol's they can likely be mixed but there is no way to test which one you have without lab analyses and all of the manufacturers state do not mix them as this is a cover all for mixing chemicals and how the responsibility carries.
Its simply not worth the risk as the chem reaction could be caused over months and may do long term damage to your system.
Professional installer. Book a one-to-one consultation for pre- and post-installation advice, troubleshooting and system optimisation.
@editor @sallyl As Mars said, there are 2 different types of glycol generally used in the heating system. They are different and should not be mixed. Without knowing exactly what is in the system, it is good practice to remove, flush and re-fill. I personally do not use glycol as there can be a significant reduction in performance with it incorporated within the system. I generally use water with inhibitor and, if the manufacturer insists, an antifreeze valve installed.
Director at Heacol | Expert Heat Pump Consultant | Book a one-to-one consultation for pre- and post-installation advice, troubleshooting and system optimisation.
@johnmo
This is not really an adequate response. Maybe you don't have any issues, but this presumably means the heating system is on most of the time? There's no one size fits all to this dilemma.
Posted by: @ecodan-efficiency@johnmo
This is not really an adequate response. Maybe you don't have any issues, but this presumably means the heating system is on most of the time? There's no one size fits all to this dilemma.
If you don't like my response you are free to ignore it.
So for your education. Read the article on here about heat pump and freezing time and take issue with that. Also read response from @brendon uys above, he also does like to use antifreeze, only adding antifreeze valves if manufacturer insists. Plus how many external oil boilers have anti freeze or anti freeze valves - none.
Which bit isn't adequate, that Ethylene glycol has zero place in a domestic heating system. It is poisonous! So why would any sane person install it.
Or use of VDI 2035, this is what you get with a heat geek install and almost every install in Germany which is way colder than here.
Or do you not like suggesting to do a reaction test?
If you going to say my response isn't adequate, at least be polite enough, to clarify what you have issue with.
Posted by: @ecodan-efficiencybut this presumably means the heating system is on most of the time?
I can either do full weather compensation or batch charging the floor. So heat pump may or may not be on. But circulation pump runs 24/7 to distribute heat and solar gains.
@johnmo
I never mentioned Ethylene glycol and I'm not suggesting using it.
As I've already said, not everybody operates their system in the same way as you. There are long periods where my circulation pump does not run, for example. I suspect you'll now tell me that's wrong without trying to understand the situation.
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