@derek-m I will check and take another photo without the vacuum in the way. Sorry about that. I don't know what the flow or return pipes are, nor how to identify them but will try to take better pictures.
The two pipes from the heat pump should go through the outside wall to the outside unit and should be lagged. If you can identify those then follow them and explain where they connect in the photo's that would be helpful.
@ashptenant there is something very wrong with your installation. The weather compensation could be completely wrong for the emitters, and/or there could be a zoning issue.
Could you let us know what type of thermostats you have?
Off grid on the isle of purbeck
2.4kW solar, 15kWh Seplos Mason, Outback power systems 3kW inverter/charger, solid fuel heating with air/air for shoulder months, 10 acres of heathland/woods.
My wife’s house: 1946 3 bed end of terrace in Somerset, ASHP with rads + UFH, triple glazed, retrofit IWI in troublesome rooms, small rear extension.
@ashptenant there is something very wrong with your installation. The weather compensation could be completely wrong for the emitters, and/or there could be a zoning issue.
Could you let us know what type of thermostats you have?
"Something very wrong"!! Yes! I'm so relieved to hear that we aren't imagining it.
We have Honeywell thermostats, one upstairs and one downstairs.
Do you know which are the flow and return pipes connected to your heat pump? If you do then see if one of these pipes is connected to port 'AB' on the 3-way valve. If that is not the case then it is possible that your system is not piped up correctly.
I'm afraid that your vacuum cleaner hose is obscuring some of the pipework, and from photo's it is very difficult to see where pipes are connected together.
Further photos. Port AB is the curved pipe in the centre of the valve, which curves down and then out through the wall. It is the uppermost of the grey bound pipes now visible in the photos. I hope these are clearer and more helpful.
Those photo's are much clearer.
I think that the upper of the two flexible pipes coming through the wall is carrying the warm water from the heat pump, and is going to the port 'AB' on the 3-way valve, which is correct. With the 3-way valve in the central heating position, the warm water should flow out of port 'B' and down the pipe to the upper left hand connection of the buffer tank at the bottom of the hot water cylinder. The warm water should then flow through the buffer tank and go into the upper right hand pipe on the buffer tank and into the water pump. From the water pump the water flows up the pipe to the 'T' fitting, where it branches to the two 2-way zone valves.
On each of the zone valves is an actuator, similar to the one disconnected from the 3-way valve. On the side of each actuator is an indicator/operating lever, which can also be locked manually in the open position. Whilst I look at the settings for your controller, I suggest that you either measure, or just by touch, check the temperature of the pipework at each side of the two zone valves, and then manually open each valve in turn by pushing the operating lever, and see if there is a change in temperature on the pipework.
@derek-m thank you for the explanation and suggestion. To be honest, I'm very wary of doing anything to the system. It's completely unfamiliar (and intimidating) to me and our landlord has already expressed concern about invalidating the warranty if he messes about with it. So I'm a bit scared to flick any valves in case I get it wrong!! However, I will happily ask the landlord to try what you've suggested when he comes to look at it again in the new year.
The heating is now off for the night. My husband has reverted to it being on twice a day rather than constantly, because it's now achieving the temps we need, since the valve on the AB/A/B port has been disabled.
However, for what it's worth, every pipe in the cupboard is currently equally warm to the touch, with the exception of the one going up and through the ceiling of the cupboard (serving the upstairs radiators?) and the one coming out of the small white wall mounted tank (is that the immersion tank?) on the left hand side.
@derek-m good work on figuring that out. Do we think that the LG cylinder has an integrated buffer in the bottom, which can optionally be heated by that lower immersion?
I’ve only ever looked at the LG controller in detail, I’ve never looked at their pre-plumbed cylinder offerings.
Off grid on the isle of purbeck
2.4kW solar, 15kWh Seplos Mason, Outback power systems 3kW inverter/charger, solid fuel heating with air/air for shoulder months, 10 acres of heathland/woods.
My wife’s house: 1946 3 bed end of terrace in Somerset, ASHP with rads + UFH, triple glazed, retrofit IWI in troublesome rooms, small rear extension.
@derek-m good work on figuring that out. Do we think that the LG cylinder has an integrated buffer in the bottom, which can optionally be heated by that lower immersion?
I’ve only ever looked at the LG controller in detail, I’ve never looked at their pre-plumbed cylinder offerings.
You must remember that ASHPTenant is not knowledgeable about heat pumps and plumbing, so must be guided in a logical manner with often detailed explanations, and the process cannot be rushed.
@derek-m thank you for the explanation and suggestion. To be honest, I'm very wary of doing anything to the system. It's completely unfamiliar (and intimidating) to me and our landlord has already expressed concern about invalidating the warranty if he messes about with it. So I'm a bit scared to flick any valves in case I get it wrong!! However, I will happily ask the landlord to try what you've suggested when he comes to look at it again in the new year.
The heating is now off for the night. My husband has reverted to it being on twice a day rather than constantly, because it's now achieving the temps we need, since the valve on the AB/A/B port has been disabled.
However, for what it's worth, every pipe in the cupboard is currently equally warm to the touch, with the exception of the one going up and through the ceiling of the cupboard (serving the upstairs radiators?) and the one coming out of the small white wall mounted tank (is that the immersion tank?) on the left hand side.
Pushing the operating lever on the valve actuators will not have any adverse effect, and is a simple way to test the valve operation. If you look closely at the side of the valve actuator, you should see a lever sticking out, which can be moved backwards and forwards in a slot in the side of the casing. If when the lever is pushed it moves freely, this would indicate that the actuator is powered. If when the lever is pushed some resistance is felt, this would indicate that the actuator is not powered. In this situation when the lever is released it should return under spring action to the starting position.
I suggest that you give it a try. Don't worry you cannot hurt anything, but it will indicate the position of the zone valves, which are probably controlled by the two thermostats.
The next test will be to operate each thermostat in turn and check to see if the zone valves respond.
@derek-m good work on figuring that out. Do we think that the LG cylinder has an integrated buffer in the bottom, which can optionally be heated by that lower immersion?
I’ve only ever looked at the LG controller in detail, I’ve never looked at their pre-plumbed cylinder offerings.
You must remember that ASHPTenant is not knowledgeable about heat pumps and plumbing, so must be guided in a logical manner with often detailed explanations, and the process cannot be rushed.
I find it quite amazing how in the last month the number of people joining the forum and posting the same questions has increased.
It’s a shocking example of poor handover from the installers.
Off grid on the isle of purbeck
2.4kW solar, 15kWh Seplos Mason, Outback power systems 3kW inverter/charger, solid fuel heating with air/air for shoulder months, 10 acres of heathland/woods.
My wife’s house: 1946 3 bed end of terrace in Somerset, ASHP with rads + UFH, triple glazed, retrofit IWI in troublesome rooms, small rear extension.
@derek-m good work on figuring that out. Do we think that the LG cylinder has an integrated buffer in the bottom, which can optionally be heated by that lower immersion?
I’ve only ever looked at the LG controller in detail, I’ve never looked at their pre-plumbed cylinder offerings.
You must remember that ASHPTenant is not knowledgeable about heat pumps and plumbing, so must be guided in a logical manner with often detailed explanations, and the process cannot be rushed.
Thank you very much indeed for your consideration and patience @derek-m and @hughf
I'm away from home today but will be brave and try adjusting the valve actuators as per your guidance and then report back to you once I'm home tomorrow. I feel more confident that I can correctly identify them now, thanks to your detailed explanation.
I'm sorry if I've duplicated a question asked elsewhere already. I'm not great with tech so didn't figure out how to search the forum for similar queries before posting.
Your support and knowledgeable suggestions are much appreciated.
It’s a shocking example of poor handover from the installers
Or the landlord.
I get the impression that our landlord was guided by a company rep before purchase, but has not had particularly good after care from the company. For instance, when he rang the technical department to query which version of the set up guide was correct - having been given two set-up manuals which contradicted each other! - one person told him it was plumbed backwards whilst another in the same department told him it was correct!! I believe he is disappointed having invested in what he thought was a very good quality, efficient heating system.
He's tried his best to help, but I guess it's a somewhat complex set-up, which he is reluctant to tinker with too much for fear of invalidating the warranty. Maybe at this point we should have a qualified engineer out from LG.
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