Joining the Renewable Heating Hub forums is completely free and only takes a minute. By registering you’ll be able to ask questions, join discussions, follow topics you’re interested in, bookmark useful threads and receive notifications when someone replies. Non-registered members also do not have access to our AI features. When choosing your username, please note that it cannot be changed later, so we recommend avoiding brand or product names. Before registering, please take a moment to read the Forum Rules & Terms of Use so we can keep the community helpful, respectful and informative for everyone. Thanks for joining!
Auto adapt and the Ecodan curve
Iv read often on here that while your on auto adapt the ecodan system will still to a good degree use the set curve you’ve set.
But…Recently iv had the it set at 38 high end @ -3.
The MELCloud app shows on cold mornings though the flow temperature reaching as high as 45c.
At the weekend just to see what happens I lowered my high end to 30c.
This morning MELCloud showed my flow rate at one point reaching 50c.
Is this going to show that while on auto adapt that actual set flow rate has no real affect??
Was this chart taken when the house was cold?
I think it would help others to interpret this if you can give OAT outside ambient temperature and inside thermostat temperature. And third piece of info is what was the target room temperature at this point. Also how long the HP has been on.
Problem is the chart shows a steep cool-down during the off time of 4 or 5 minutes. Not only that it’s cooling is accelerating towards the end of the off period.
As much info as you know is always handy but appreciate you may not know what’s needed. EG rads or UFH. Size of HP, how big is the load (size of total emitter capacity at T50 rating)
in principle if your room temp is close to your target room temp Auto Adapt will reduce its output but only as it gets close to room temp. But I have often seen Auto Adapt rising above my weather curve so I often stop using it.
So I’m not entirely sure if it uses my weather curve at all or if it has its own notional weather curve built in. That’s not to say it doesn’t use your curve I’m just not 100% convinced.
but regarding the curve you’ve posted it shows it wants to heat at a high output because the heat loss at that point in time is very high.
here is a chart of ours when the room temp is almost reached and you can see the drop in return temp is not steep.
I’ve also just noticed your curve might be doing a defrost???
Below are charts showing the hour before and hour after. Also a chart showing set temp/ room temp/ outside temperatures.
iv no underfloor heating.
size of pump is 8.5kw
no understanding tbh of t rating.
3 bed semi approximately
100sq meters
I have to state I’m not at all unhappy with performance as my house is well able to heat to a nice comfortable temperature seemingly quite easy. All rads fully open other than one in bedroom turned down to 2 tvr.
At 38c top end yes but as I said atm it’s down to 30c.
how do you know when it’s defrosting??
@westkent it’s defrosting when the flow temp line (in blue) drops below the return temp line. (In black)
The flow temp rapidly drops because the defrost system works in reverse so the flow water is chilled as its relative heat is used to warm up the refrigerant to melt the frosting.
depending on how many radiators you have your HP may struggle to operate as low as 30c without shutting down a lot. That’s why I asked about the T50 rating. That’s a measure of a radiator output at a given room temperature.
as an example my 8.5 ecodan works well at 35c and cannot go below 32c without rapid cycling.
we have 15 radiators
So as I have glycol in the system am I able to some way or other deter the H/P from defrosting???
@westkent The glycol is there to stop the water from freezing and causing damage to any of the pipework (in or outside the heatpump). The defrosting will still be a necessary stage in the heat pump’s cycle - when the fins ice up due to moisture freezing on them, they need to be defrosted or cleared with some heat. Regards, Toodles.
Toodles, heats his home with cold draughts and cooks food with magnets.
Thanks for the replies. Very helpful in understanding how things to a degree work.
Im going to keep the upper temp at 30c at -3 and see if it continues to heat the house comfortably.
My heating went back on near on a couple of hrs ago at 3pm and the flow atm is at 34c with an OAT of 9c.
My wireless remote thermostat is set to 20c and showing a room temperature of 20.5c and still heating.
@westkent A thermostat has a ‘Hysteresis’; this may well be ~1 degree or possibly a little more - thus preventing a system from being turned on and then off at short intervals. Some controllers allow adjustment of this ‘tolerance’, others are fixed by the manufacturer. Regards, Toodles.
Toodles, heats his home with cold draughts and cooks food with magnets.
What does the front display of your main controller show you can offset the weather comp curve from there.
No one other than Mitsubishi really knows what auto adapt is allowed to do but all the info says it starts with the weather curve but then learns how you house heats up and adjusts from there.
if you have been running it for a while maybe it’s now doing it own thing
- 27 Forums
- 2,754 Topics
- 64.8 K Posts
- 158 Online
- 7,159 Members
Join Us!
Installer Finder
Degrees of Separation
Latest Posts
-
RE: Problems with sizing a replacement for a Viessmann Vitocal 200-S
Thanks for sharing that. Your objective seems very sen...
By JamesPa , 2 hours ago
-
RE: Solar Power Output – Let’s Compare Generation Figures
@toodles Very nice. Ours was the opposite, about 10%...
By Papahuhu , 3 hours ago
-
RE: Adding additional Solar Panels to a DC coupled battery system
A couple more points about placing solar panels at low ...
By Transparent , 3 hours ago
-
RE: How Accurate Is My DIY Heat Loss Calculation?
@kilgorexv definitely a larger inverter will help and m...
By AndrewJ , 1 day ago
-
RE: Adventures in heat loss calculations
@rob-of-york — thanks for posting this, all very useful...
By cathodeRay , 1 day ago
-
RE: Surface mount or bury primaries for heat pump installation?
The installation is almost done! I've written up two ...
By tomasmcguinness , 2 days ago
-
RE: Glass lined Cylinder for private water supply
This has turned into a fascinating little rabbit hole. ...
By Mars , 2 days ago
-
RE: Switch suitable to change between two inverter CT's
Last winter my battery ,32KWh, could run the house com...
By Jancold , 2 days ago
-
RE: HeatGeek vs Octopus surveys: puzzling disparity - any ideas why?
Agree with Major. And even if I was very happy with ...
By Batpred , 2 days ago
-
RE: Is the "divide by 2900" rule still valid?
There is another estimator that you could use, a formul...
By Rob of York , 2 days ago
-
RE: To re-pipe or not to re-pipe? Moving from oil boiler to air source heat pump.
@penval, really useful update. After all the discussion...
By Mars , 4 days ago
-
RE: Who's your electricity provider and what's your tariff?
@papahuhu I prefer to look at it simplistically. We d...
By Old_Scientist , 5 days ago
-
RE: Questions about A2A for heating as well as cooling
@rob-of-york I would concur with the underfloor insulat...
By Toodles , 6 days ago
-
RE: New Vaillant Arotherm controls link to existing thermostats ; wired vs wireless
Nothing attached! I have rads but UFH makes the case ...
By JamesPa , 6 days ago
















