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Samsung E911 intermittent issue

 
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Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHPs)
Last Post by NetDonkey 1 month ago
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 NetDonkey
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Topic starter 06/12/2024 9:32 pm  

Hi all,

Been having a trawl through the forums for the E911 and have a few other queries.

I have a AE080CXYDEK which was installed back in June and has been working well. Recently, however, we have had a couple of E911 errors which has led me to dig into our install a bit more.

Using our MIM i can see the flow is around 7.2-7.4lpm which is almost at the HP's minimum in which the E911 error starts.  I have queried our installer (electrician who installed the solar and battery and subsequently subbed the ASHP install out) and it's taking a while to get anywhere. So my queries are as follows:

We have a Evosta 3 set to fixed curve regulation mode level3.  Is this correct?

It looks like the Evosta has been installed upside down but I assume it was done this way due to the flow direct?

I can stop it from erroring by only running the heating and within 15 mins of powering on the DHW it trips (subsequently in the last 12hrs I have had both running and it hasn't tripped). Does this narrow down what the issue could be?

In another thread, Mars mentioned checking the Y strainer.  Is this easy to do as a novice or should I be pushing to get the plumber to come out and check. If it's easy where is it usually located and what does it look like?

How happy are other plumbers to come out and diagnose a system they havent put it and is it worth doing this?

 

Thanks!


   
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 ASHP-BOBBA
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07/12/2024 11:11 am  

@netdonkey The model number for your Samsung indicates it is an 8kW system? The flow rates you are indicating only provide around 2.5kW and the code E911 is related to lack of flow, airlocks, restrictions on flow or other flow sensor issues. 

Samsung send an inline strainer with their systems, if this was fitted it will collect debris from the system and block (this is its job) this will need checking 1st, also its worth confirming the length of the primary pipework from the condenser to the plant room (from the condenser to the manifold or plant room, buffer or 1st secondary distribution pipework valves). It worth making sure this pipework is the correct size for the flow rate and distance it serving. 8Kw will need a minimum of 28mm on a short run.

 

  

 

 


   
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 NetDonkey
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Topic starter 07/12/2024 12:39 pm  

@ashp-bobba Thanks. The pipework run from the ASHP to main plant is around 13m.  Would the strainer be near the pump or the main plant?  I assume the strain would be on the return to protect the pump?


   
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 ASHP-BOBBA
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07/12/2024 1:39 pm  

@netdonkey The strainer can be anywhere on the rerun line from the airing cupboard / plant room to the ASHP condenser, so this could be in that room or at the condenser, they look like a Y shape: linked here for you to see.

Please clarify 2 things if you can?

13m from the condenser to the plant room as the main ASHP pipes 

What size is the pipework from the condenser (most manufacturers need you to limit the run to a max 10M or calculate an upsize in pipework and pump to cope with the length of run).

 

 

 

This post was modified 3 months ago 2 times by Mars

   
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Mars
 Mars
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07/12/2024 10:03 pm  

Posted by: @netdonkey
↑

Would the strainer be near the pump or the main plant? 

On our system, originally, it was inside the heat pump unit (we don’t have a Samsung). It was a bloody stupid location because we had to remove heat pump side panels to access it, so we had the installers move it into our plant room. See photo.

IMG 4060

I asked installers specifically about Y strainers on a recent podcast and they should be fitted on every installation, so you should have one somewhere. 

Buy Bodge Buster – Homeowner Air Source Heat Pump Installation Guide: https://amzn.to/3NVndlU
From Zero to Heat Pump Hero: https://amzn.to/4bWkPFb

Subscribe and follow our Homeowners’ Q&A heat pump podcast


   
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 NetDonkey
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Topic starter 07/12/2024 10:37 pm  

@ashp-bobba 28mm I believe but will get the tape measure out tomorrow.


   
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 NetDonkey
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Topic starter 07/12/2024 10:37 pm  

@editor will have a look for it tomorrow.  How hard is it to open and clean?  I assume there will be a stop valve/cut off either side of it?


   
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 ASHP-BOBBA
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07/12/2024 11:01 pm  

@netdonkey Should be shut of valves either side. the nut can be a bit tight on some of them, be sure to support the pipe when you try.


   
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 NetDonkey
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Topic starter 08/12/2024 10:14 am  

A new symptom this morning. 

The HP shut off overnight with the E911 error.  I have reset everything as usual and now the HP isn't coming on but the MIM is still reporting 7.4lpm and the radiators aren't getting warm at all

IMG 4251

 


   
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Mars
 Mars
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08/12/2024 10:15 am  

@netdonkey do exactly what @ashp-bobba says above.

Cleaning it is really easy once you've popped the nut off. It's got a little gauze filter/mesh inside. Give that a rinse under a tap, but before you do, check to see how many corrosive bits are in there as a reference. 

Buy Bodge Buster – Homeowner Air Source Heat Pump Installation Guide: https://amzn.to/3NVndlU
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 NetDonkey
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Topic starter 08/12/2024 3:48 pm  

@editor Can't see anything that resembles a Y filter.  There does seem to be a big black fillter (pic attached) which might be a filter?

IMG 4253

 

Before and after the Evosta3 circulation pump there are valves.  Is it worth making sure those are fully open?

IMG 4258

 The heat pump has just came on, the pipes near the water tank start to get a bit warmer and then the HP goes off again so sounds like it might be cycling?


   
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Toodles
 Toodles
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08/12/2024 3:59 pm  

@netdonkey The filter in the first photo looks saucespiciously like a ‘MagnaClean’ type filter; as the flow passes through this, the larger volume of the chamber reduces speed of flow and allows a magnet to attract and retain any particles of ferrous material that passes through the pipework. This chamber is normally cleaned out during any servicing work. Regards, Toodles.

Toodles, he heats his home with cold draughts and cooks his food with magnets.


   
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