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E121 error code on Samsung 12kw gen 6

 
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Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHPs)
Last Post by Mars 1 year ago
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 Derek M
(@derek-m)
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03/12/2022 7:42 pm  

Hi Craig,

First of all you will be using more electrical energy, since it is now colder outside. You should also be aware that electrical energy use by a heat pump is not linear with change in outside air temperature, but increases exponentially as the outside air temperature reduces. How much energy did you use?

I am assuming that the heat pump is no longer switching off for only 20 seconds?

One further interesting point is that the 'Inverter Pump' reading is now showing as 25%, which if you had a PWM controlled pump would mean that it would be running much slower. Don't change anything at the moment, but later it may be possible to try the pump on a slower speed setting.

What I don't understand is that the descriptions on the 'Master Indoor Zone Information' screen refer to an 'Indoor Unit', which you don't have in your system. I suppose it could just be that Samsung forgot to change the text in the software for the Monobloc heat pump.

Keep carrying out your tests, which I feel certain both you and others will find of use. One important thing to remember is that no two days are exactly the same, so making like for like comparisons may not always be possible.

 

This post was modified 1 year ago by Mars

   
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 Craig1980
(@craig1980)
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Topic starter 03/12/2022 7:59 pm  

@derek-m I had also noticed the reduction in pump speed. It also dropped to 45 when we turned of WC a few days ago. 

What KW we were using is a little irrelevant as we didn't have the heating on much and it was much milder at over 10 degrees. We were using as little as 8.6 up to 15kw. Now yesterday was 20 but the outside temp has dropped again and we are on 3.6 outside temp. 

The indoor unit bit threw me off aswell. I assumed it was something to do with the box on the front of the UVC.

Yes, we are no longer short cycling. Hooray. Just trying to get it to run as efficiently as possible now. I'll see tomorrow if the 2091, 2 and 3 at #3 is better or worse. 

One of the difficulties I have is that we were on LPG before and on auto fill so had no real idea how much we used. We also rarely ran the boiler apart from a few hours a day when it got cold. So I've no comparison for electric Vs previous gas use. 


   
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 Craig1980
(@craig1980)
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Topic starter 04/12/2022 1:32 pm  

@derek-m I've just read this article on this site

 
 
They mention WC not working as the indoor temp sensor is in the warm room, like mine is in the airing cupboard. Could this be causing an issue for me too? Thanks 

   
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 Derek M
(@derek-m)
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04/12/2022 4:57 pm  

In your situation the simple answer is no.

Because your controller is showing a value of 0.0 at the moment, this indicates that your controller is solely in WC mode, and takes no account of the indoor air temperature. The thermostats can switch the heat pump on and off, but the controller will only vary the LWT dependent upon the outside air temperature.

 

This post was modified 1 year ago by Mars

   
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 Craig1980
(@craig1980)
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Topic starter 04/12/2022 5:42 pm  

@derek-m okay, thanks.


   
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 Craig1980
(@craig1980)
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Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 146
Topic starter 04/12/2022 6:12 pm  

I'm back now and having checked the energy use it seemed to run for longer and use more energy on #3 on all three settings although this could be down to outside temps as you said. I've put all three back to #2

I'm not sure if 2093 remote controller, room temp control should be the same as the others but that's what I've done so far. 

 


   
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Mars
 Mars
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Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 3357
08/03/2024 11:38 pm  

@craig1980 it’s been two years since you posted on this topic. Curious to know what happened.

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