The thing that worries me like you have said previously is this section on the complaints side of the MCS certification.

MCS do not have the authority to enforce the following:

To award compensation or other financial redress.

Arrange for installation removal or refunds.

Appoint another installer to undertake remedial work on your behalf.

So if it all fails and gets no where I'm basically stuck with what I have 🤔

So you start to ask yourself what's the actual point in all these organisations 😬

The work is Apparently insured through HIES and NAPIT I think they are called so building regs so we shall see what comes of it. 

Preferably I'd like the outside unit put on a concrete base (I'm more than happy to pay to have the base installed)

The external pipe work re done outside to allow better flow/be neater looking. (Again id happy to pay for that fancy conduit boxing to cover it)

A radiator moved to acceptable distance from the wall. 

The plastic microbore pipework that should have been replaced replaced. 

Buffer tank removed or mounted correctly and re plumbed into a volumiser. 

But again we shall see

Posted by: @burtis

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concrete base

But with soak away also, otherwise you will have a big chunk of ice that gets deeper every day below zero.

I would remove soil under gravel 

Posted by: @burtis

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radiator moved to acceptable distance from the wall

What is now compared to the minimum in the installer manual - generally it's 400mm.

Posted by: @burtis

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Buffer tank removed or mounted correctly and re plumbed into a volumiser. 

Would ask a more basic question do you need either. If you are running a single zone, unlikely you need either. If you want zones the volumiser brings nothing to the party as it doesn't ensure min flow rates can be maintained.

Posted by: @burtis

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external pipe work re done outside to allow better flow

Yes should be sorted. Note: bends do not directly affect flow rate, they affect system head loss, which results in a pump having to work harder to move a set volume of water. For good efficiency head loss should be minimised where ever possible.

Posted by: @burtis

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plastic microbore pipework that should have been replaced replaced. 

If was in the quote don't make them do it. Don't pay your final bill until happy.

@burtis You are not just stuck with a complaint to MCS.

1: You can use the Consumer Rights Act 2015 (which replaced the earlier "Sale of Goods Act").
It operates through the Citizens Advice Bureaux, which means they can guide you as to which rights of redress are available.

2: For any specific faults which the installer hasn't put right, you can also get it corrected by another company.
Present the bill to the installer and request payment.
If no payment is forthcoming then the Small Claims Division of the High Court is a route you could consider.

3: After checking with your LPA Councillor, he/she may wish to instruct a Building Control Surveyor to have a look.
They might ask you to pay for such a visit.
Or perhaps not. After all, the LPA has a responsibility for Building Control Standards.

Whether you are asked to contribute or not, that route would provide you with a letter or report which identifies where the Regulations haven't been met.
That's a very powerful document, and well worthwhile seeking.

@johnmo 

To be honest I paid up as at the time it all looked ok. 

Then when I got into looking at heat pump installs more and researching I realised I may have some problems. 

But yes sadly I have already paid. 

Currently I don't have a soak away it's just some shingle chucked over the soil that was under the slabs. 

The company offered to remove the buffer tank and pump but I would have to pay them to do it to see if it would work. My system is a single zone I believe.

@transparent 

Thanks again I will keep on at it, not something I have ever had to do before or am wanting to do but needs must I suppose 😞

This morning it has stopped working and chucked a error code for flow issues. 😭 Just on time for the weather to cool off 😅

There's a load of black grit stuff in the radiators and one of them was blocked with debris so I'm not surprised to be honest. 

If you have a buffer you have a primary and secondary circuit. The primary circuit is the ASHP and buffer. Your flow sensor is in the primary circuit and part of the ASHP. What occurs in the secondary circuit should not affect the primary.

One exception will be system debris. Your primary circuit will have a strainer this is likely clogged up. The secondary circuit a magnetic filter. Clean both.

Was your system filled with antifreeze or water / chemical and antifreeze valves?

@johnmo thank you buddy no my system was never filled with anything, neither did they put anti freeze valves. 

We had decorating to do so they left the inhibitor out until we were done sadly. 

Posted by: @burtis

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There's a load of black grit stuff in the radiators and one of them was blocked with debris

That's almost certainly iron oxide (Fe3O4) ...
... the sort of stuff which a magnetic filter is meant to eradicate.

Are all your radiators new?
Or were some original ones connected to the new heat-pump system?

Did the installer run up the (secondary) system and then drain it to remove debris?
If so, that "flush through" should be listed on the Commissioning Chart.

@transparent there was only 1 radiator that wasn't changed a old towel rail funnily enough that same room is always cold.

They did flush the system but it didn't really work as it blocked up some upstairs rads straight after.

More troubles 😅

Yep one of the primary filters was completely blocked with black bits rust and some large chunks 

There looks to be a 2nd one on the shut off valve that I can't undo as I don't have a big enough spanner.

Will leave the one in the loft for now. 

But system seems to have come back to life 

Posted by: @burtis

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They did flush the system but it didn't really work as it blocked up some upstairs rads straight after.

Does the installer know that yet?

When a flush-though doesn't fully clear out the system, then you need a Central Heating Cleaning Fluid such as Sentinel X800 or Fernox F3.

There are also additives which break down sludge, particularly iron oxide, but take longer to act.

There's no point adding a System Inhibitor until the existing deposits are flushed out.

Have you checked that the drain-off valve is at the lowest point in the system?

When you drain after a flush through, open the air-bleed valves at the top parts of the plumbing, and that towel radiator in particular.
If you don't do that, then the weight of water leaving the system will be creating a vacuum, which leaves the sludge in place.

Posted by: @burtis

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a 2nd one on the shut off valve that I can't undo as I don't have a big enough spanner

I have spanners here up to 56mm.
How far can you reach?

In rural areas like where I live, we'd just pop down to the local garage and borrow one.
How friendly is your neighbourhood?

Yeah the installer is aware that I had a blocked radiator and debris and rust in the system. 

This is the only thing they were willing to come back and do.

I will be buying any tools I need to do these strainers definitely just as it's a simple easy fix 👌

I have found a local Heat Geek installer in my area so will speak with him to see if he can check it over as well yomsee if there are any glaring issues I need to sort