@derek-m attached a picture of the documentation for my manifold - do you mean looking at changing the pressure of the 4 red line gauges? I've never done this - but looks like the red part is the lock then I turn anticlockwise to increase. I can confirm I only have one manifold.
I feel a little stupid as reading through all of the documentation - I do indeed have two manifests!! The one I missed is in with the whole system (photos attached) and controls the living area. I cannot thank you enough for your help - at least I will understand how everything connects up! Do you happen to know if I can get Melcloud installed if I didn't have it?
You need a wifi connector box from Mitsubishi, supplied as standard now but probably not at the time of your install as you don't have one. ( https://les.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/products/controls/advanced-interfaces/mac-567if-advanced-interface) It costs about £100. It plugs into the FTC controller board and then connects to your home wifi network – not the strongest of signal receivers, the installer gave up on mine and I had to fasten it to a rafter to get reception. There are some videos on the Mitsubishi website that show how to do this and also link your particular setup the MelCloud webserver from the MelCloud homepage.
It is perfectly possible to do yourself as long as you are ok with taking the cover off the box of electronics that is the main controller and plugging the connector into a socket on the board. Contributors here can give you more guidance on this if you need it. If you prefer not to then your installers would have to come and do it.
Mitsubishi EcoDan 8.5 kW ASHP - radiators on a single loop 210l Mitsubishi solar tank Solar thermal 3.94kW of PV
@derek-m attached a picture of the documentation for my manifold - do you mean looking at changing the pressure of the 4 red line gauges? I've never done this - but looks like the red part is the lock then I turn anticlockwise to increase. I can confirm I only have one manifold.
You cannot adjust the system pressure at the UFH manifolds, this will probably be done near your hot water cylinder. Somewhere near the hot water cylinder there will probably be a pressure gauge. If this is reading less than 1 bar, then you will need to top up your system. Connected to the mains water supply pipe there should be a flexible hose with an isolation valve, which will be closed.
This is the cold water supply to top up your system. Open the isolation valve slowly until you hear water flowing and watch the reading on the pressure gauge. When the pressure gets up to 1.5 bar, close the isolation valve.
The system pressure should be checked periodically, since falling pressure would probably indicate that there is a leak somewhere.
No, free to use! I guess Mitsubishi get the benefit of a broad swathe of performance data they can analyse and then also access the data on individual installations to assist with technical support when required without having send engineers out unnecessarily.
Mitsubishi EcoDan 8.5 kW ASHP - radiators on a single loop 210l Mitsubishi solar tank Solar thermal 3.94kW of PV
As at 09:30 - energy usage so far today 5.38 kWh (definitely noticed a difference since changing schedule)
energy used yesterday 30kwh - that's for whole house and I had increased the temperatures for all areas - also I used tumble dryer and two loads of washing !!!
The weather is quite mild out - about 9/10 degrees but cloudy.
bathroom is 17 and up to temp
bedroom is 18 - the most it's been since summer with solar gain - so this is all through the UFH !!! not calling for heat
living area is 17 and calling for heat. This area seems to be the hardest to get warmer - probably because of some heat loss up the stairs? I'll monitor later and see if it gets up to temp.
OK - so it's been month now since I've made suggested changes to my ASHP. The weather outside during this period has been mixed - we've had several nights of minus outside - probably not as cold as in December and the last few days it has now made it past 3 degrees during the day . It was the cold period in December that prompted me to try and find some answers for my settings as I had usage from 7th December until 19th December each day as 42kwh, 45kwh,54kwh,52kwh.46kwh,49kwh,52kwh,52kwh,67kwh,65kwh,38kwh,43kwh,then 20kwh - THIS IS FOR WHOLE HOUSE - but the increase in usage was due to the ASHP. My temp settings on each zone were low - so in December I used 516kwh for my ASHP and got delivered energy of 963 - the space wasn't even particularly warm, because I panicked and put the temps down - in the bathroom it was frost setting!! Since the changes (I've attached a spreadsheet) - I now have warmer room temperatures but the usage has never spiked like December - the highest daily usage has been 32kwh (for the whole house). The spreadsheet lists the temperatures I had set on each zone before changes and then after - also consumed/delivered energy on the ASHP for December/January/Feb. I've also put some notes about temperature outside. As you can see the living area often doesn't get up to temp during the day - this is the largest area and I'm beginning to suspect that this is due to the flow rate temp - which is set to 40. Before I started this experiment I was on "Room temp Mode"/"Target room temp" and changed it to "Target flow temperature" mode.
OK - so it's been month now since I've made suggested changes to my ASHP. The weather outside during this period has been mixed - we've had several nights of minus outside - probably not as cold as in December and the last few days it has now made it past 3 degrees during the day . It was the cold period in December that prompted me to try and find some answers for my settings as I had usage from 7th December until 19th December each day as 42kwh, 45kwh,54kwh,52kwh.46kwh,49kwh,52kwh,52kwh,67kwh,65kwh,38kwh,43kwh,then 20kwh - THIS IS FOR WHOLE HOUSE - but the increase in usage was due to the ASHP. My temp settings on each zone were low - so in December I used 516kwh for my ASHP and got delivered energy of 963 - the space wasn't even particularly warm, because I panicked and put the temps down - in the bathroom it was frost setting!! Since the changes (I've attached a spreadsheet) - I now have warmer room temperatures but the usage has never spiked like December - the highest daily usage has been 32kwh (for the whole house). The spreadsheet lists the temperatures I had set on each zone before changes and then after - also consumed/delivered energy on the ASHP for December/January/Feb. I've also put some notes about temperature outside. As you can see the living area often doesn't get up to temp during the day - this is the largest area and I'm beginning to suspect that this is due to the flow rate temp - which is set to 40. Before I started this experiment I was on "Room temp Mode"/"Target room temp" and changed it to "Target flow temperature" mode.
I am pleased to read that that you not only have a warmer home, but that you have reduced your energy consumption in the process. The next step will be to set your system to operate on weather compensation curve. I have attached a video below which explains how to make the changes. I would suggest initial settings of Leaving Water Temperature (LWT) of 40C at an outside temperature of -3C and LWT of 25C at an outside temperature of 15C to 20C. Allow the system to run for a day and see how it performs, then make any adjustments that may be necessary to achieve the desired indoor temperatures.
Check and record the temperatures indicated on the temperature gauges at your UFH manifolds. If you cannot achieve the desired temperature in any of the rooms, it could be that the water flow rate to that particular UFH loop is too low. Please provide close up photo's of the red coloured flow regulator valves for further advice.
@derek-m thank you very much again for taking the time to reply. I have just made those changes - OMG - I have make a compensation curve change to my system !!! That was all double dutch to me before. I will still monitor and use the same spreadsheet on a daily basis and see how that goes for a week.
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