In the meantime, noisewise, somehing you maybe could have a look at is whether your 6kW Ecodan has enough spare capacity to operate comfortably in one of the Quiet Mode settings. If your controller is FTC6 the option should be available under Heat Pump Settings in the Service menu.
Yes, I did try that a few weeks ago and it did seem to make a difference, though that might have been placebo effect if I misunderstood the Quiet Level setting (see another of your posts and my follow-up)!
What differences, if any, did you notice between the three settings / which one are you on now?
Also, I started tweaking my W/C curve yesterday - it was mild last night however the unit was barely audible with my first W/C attempt, which is promising (as HughF alluded to).
Just for comparison, ours is freestanding on the antivibration pads, standing on stone paving.
Thank you - do you have a link to the pads you used / are you happy with that setup/would you do it again?
1 black bar (Level 2 Quiet Mode) is the quietest setting, and that is the one we use all the time, except when it is forecast to remain below zero all day. Then we switch back to 3 black bars / Normal power, as the heat output can fall a bit short otherwise.
2 black bars (Level 1 QM) also reduces noise, but to a lesser degree.
The pads were ordered by the installer, and are described as Mitsubishi anti vibration feet 600mm. They seem well made, durable and effective, so I wouldn't hesitate to use them again.
Ours is the 11.2kW R32 Ecodan. Dimensionally the enclosure appears to be the same as the 6kW version.
Picking out some of the areas of the OP in case it's easier to respond:
Working from where the primaries come out of the brickwork, and assuming they are insulated with PrimaryPro, what do people think is the optimal 28mm copper run length (range) and shape from the 90deg elbow?
With anti-freeze/glycol and anti-freeze valves, is it one or the other, or do you still recommend adding the valves even if there is glycol in the system?
Assume 28mm should be run right up to the unit's water inlet+outlet connectors where possible? Do flexihoses come with 28mm at one end and 22mm at the other (unit) end?
Correct, however the lowest, 5kW model oddly needs 300mm!
@derek-m, would you think a larger distance is practical for performance or noise reasons?
Probably both.
The heat pump requires a good flow of 'fresh' air through the evaporator coils, which are located at the rear and one side of the unit. Noise levels can be affected by distance as well as nearby surfaces.
Correct, however the lowest, 5kW model oddly needs 300mm!
Yes that's right. I remember reading about this when we were ordering ours. The 5kW has a smaller enclosure than the 6, 8.5 and 11.2kW versions. Our enclosures are 150mm deeper than the 5kW and have a larger internal air volume. The 5kW is similar in depth to the earlier Ecodans which also required 300mm at the rear.
@derek-m it's 140mm. Mitsubishi recommends minimum 100mm for the Ecodan R32.
hi SKD,
What model are you referring to please? The R32 only refers to the refrigerant. I’ve posted here the data sheet for the current r32 models and the clearance quoted is a minimum of 300mm at the back of the product. Where did you see 140mm?
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