Posted by: @walsham_matt

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Does the location of the controller affect the settings, i.e compensation curve?

Our controller is located with the tank in a 'boiler cupboard' which as expected stays reasonably warm. Whenever I check the app it claims the temperature in both zone 1 and 2 to be 22'c whilst at the same time the thermostats will be saying 16'c so I'm assuming it's getting the reading from the main controller and not the thermostats? 

Any way around this or just switch to fixed flow setting?  

If your thermostats are of the on - off variety, they do not send a temperature measurement to the Ecodan controller.

The Ecodan controller does contain a thermistor for temperature measurement and display, but it is only used for heat pump control when operating in Auto Adaptation (AA) mode. If your system is operating in Weather Compensation (WC) mode, the controller adjusts the Leaving Water Temperature (LWT) based upon the outside air temperature measurement and the settings of the WC curve.

With your present setup, it would probably be best to operate in WC mode, and adjust the settings of the WC curve to match the characteristics of your home. If you have radiators then start with WC settings of 50C LWT at -5C outside air temperature and 25C LWT at 20C outside air temperature. If you only have UFH then try setting the cold end of the WC curve at 40C LWT at -5C outside air temperature.

Then set any thermostats to 2C above the desired indoor temperature, and fully open any TRV's located in the living area, but not the bedrooms.

If the indoor air temperature increases, then lower the WC setting at the cold end, obviously do the opposite if the indoor air temperature falls.

There's a setting in the menus somewhere to use remote thermistors, but I think it only works if they're either on a long wire from the controller, or are Mitsubishi remote units.

Third party thermostats just send on/off signals, as described.

I got my installer to relocate my controller and replace my 3rd party (on off) room stat with the wireless Mitsubishi which is now set up as the room temp stat. I now have modulating auto adaptive control and weathe compensation. From the convenience of either my kitchen or lounge.

my argument was the installation did not give me the full functionality of the system. 

We have 2 thermostats (1 in the master bedroom - right next to the 'boiler cupboard' and 1 in the downstairs hallway - right next to the front door). 

From memory they are Honeywell thermostats (I'll check when I get back) and were installed by Lovell's before we moved in. I'm able to set temperature and daily programs from them which the pump seems to respond to. 

If it would help I'll ask Lovell's to provide a wireless Mitsubishi unit but only if I know it'll help. 

Regarding the WC setting...we've been using the above suggested settings for the past 4/6 weeks and haven't noticed a great deal of difference. Particularly downstairs it seems to never reach the called for temp even when left for hours. This weekend for example we left the house at 3:30pm with the thermostat showing 16.5'c...before we left I turned it up to 18'c so that when we returned in 2/3 hours the house would be warm...but when we had got back the temp had dropped to 16'c. I know the DHW hadn't been on as that's on a timer.

I don't really want the temp at night above 16.5/17'c as A. it's too warm and B. too expensive but it takes what seems like a lifetime to then get back to a decent temp. The wife is getting pretty fed up with daily bills being well in excess of £10 a day whilst still being cold, so much so she's started to consider putting in a wood burner which defeats the purpose of an eco ASHP.     

Posted by: @walsham_matt

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We have 2 thermostats (1 in the master bedroom - right next to the 'boiler cupboard' and 1 in the downstairs hallway - right next to the front door). 

From memory they are Honeywell thermostats (I'll check when I get back) and were installed by Lovell's before we moved in. I'm able to set temperature and daily programs from them which the pump seems to respond to. 

If it would help I'll ask Lovell's to provide a wireless Mitsubishi unit but only if I know it'll help. 

 

Regarding the WC setting...we've been using the above suggested settings for the past 4/6 weeks and haven't noticed a great deal of difference. Particularly downstairs it seems to never reach the called for temp even when left for hours. This weekend for example we left the house at 3:30pm with the thermostat showing 16.5'c...before we left I turned it up to 18'c so that when we returned in 2/3 hours the house would be warm...but when we had got back the temp had dropped to 16'c. I know the DHW hadn't been on as that's on a timer.

I don't really want the temp at night above 16.5/17'c as A. it's too warm and B. too expensive but it takes what seems like a lifetime to then get back to a decent temp. The wife is getting pretty fed up with daily bills being well in excess of £10 a day whilst still being cold, so much so she's started to consider putting in a wood burner which defeats the purpose of an eco ASHP.     

Check and set the WC curve as shown in the video below. Try initial settings of 50C LWT at -5C outside air temperature and 25C LWT at 20C outside air temperature.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+set+weather+compensation+on+ecodan+heat+pump&rlz=1C1OPRB_enGB514GB552&oq=how+to+set+weather+compensation+on+ecodan&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j33i160l2.53193j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:a02b8ba7,vid:uC3jydJydRQ

Once completed open fully any TRV's in the living areas, and set any thermostats to 1C above the desired temperature.

Leave the system running for a few hours then report back what has happened to the indoor temperatures.

My Ecodan controller is wall mounted beside the main box in the same (airing) cupboard as the DHW tank.   However I am set up for WC and adjust room temp' via a Mitsubishi wireless remote in the hall.   I would like to try Auto Adaptation to see if financial savings can be had.  Does my set up as described preclude or allow auto adaptation?

One single remote thermostat, single zone all to radiators.

Posted by: @morgan

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My Ecodan controller is wall mounted beside the main box in the same (airing) cupboard as the DHW tank.   However I am set up for WC and adjust room temp' via a Mitsubishi wireless remote in the hall.   I would like to try Auto Adaptation to see if financial savings can be had.  Does my set up as described preclude or allow auto adaptation?

One single remote thermostat, single zone all to radiators.

Should be fine.  You need to make sure that the Room Sensor setting is set to "Main RC".  It's on the menu under Initial Settings (the little cog wheel).  You also need to enable Auto Adaptation via a dip switch. SW5-2.  The default is enabled (mine was enabled)

Have you tried just changing to Room Temp mode on the main controller in the airing cupboard?  If the two above things are in place it should just work.  You'll know because the first thing that will happen is your radiators will get much hotter for a couple of days.    

@kev-m   Oh, dip switches!  I don't have the confidence to take the front off that box.

Posted by: @morgan

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@kev-m   Oh, dip switches!  I don't have the confidence to take the front off that box.

Just try room temp mode without looking at the dip switches. If it's not set to auto adapt I think it'll just act like a dumb thermostat like it's doing now.  If you want to know if it is on AA, turn up the temp a couple or three degrees and the radiators will get hotter. If it isn't, they won't.

Posted by: @kev-m

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Posted by: @morgan

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@kev-m   Oh, dip switches!  I don't have the confidence to take the front off that box.

Just try room temp mode without looking at the dip switches. If it's not set to auto adapt I think it'll just act like a dumb thermostat like it's doing now.  If you want to know if it is on AA, turn up the temp a couple or three degrees and the radiators will get hotter. If it isn't, they won't.

 

In WC atm and if I turn the temp up on the thermostat (Mitsubishi wireless) the radiators get hotter.

They should only get as hot as the WC target if you're on WC.  If you're in AA they will get a lot hotter than that.