@jamespa "Whether anyone would be prepared to pay the rates that they would demand is of course another matter!", they are not, we have sorted a lot of installations and have never made any money on them. It is an expensive game, diagnosing and sorting cowboy jobs.

es, the house is a lot warmer and consistant ,with changing to balancing with lockshields,  but using up a lot mor kw I fear . Over the last 7 days with oat ranging between -1c to 5c roughly its averaged at 77.7kw/h. (I might add thats the total House elect)

Reading back about mismatched pumping , it doesnt help when one pump, the CH, is either sucking on 22mm or pumping it to 28mm.

Posted by: @alfapat

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es, the house is a lot warmer and consistant ,with changing to balancing with lockshields,  but using up a lot mor kw I fear . Over the last 7 days with oat ranging between -1c to 5c roughly its averaged at 77.7kw/h. (I might add thats the total House elect)

Reading back about mismatched pumping , it doesnt help when one pump, the CH, is either sucking on 22mm or pumping it to 28mm.

Glad its warmer and more particularly more consistent.  Be careful about concluding its costing more though, the last few days were quite a lot colder than the previous few and any measurement over less than a few weeks is inevitably very much subject to 'noise'.  That's one of the problems with this stuff, doing experiments on consumption is fraught with difficulty because we have no control of the outside conditions.  With greater stability you might well find you can edge the water law/WC curve down a degree or so still and still be comfortable which will help.

That buffer tank needs to go IMHO, its just a case of when!  If you want to do this then in prep you need to

• trace the controls for the pumps and find out whats controlling them
• write down the values of all the FSV (field setting values) starting with 2.  You will have been playing with these when you were modifying the WC curve, so it will be a related menu.

of course its all your choice.

@jamespa so both feeds to the HP line pumps go to the Samsung controller and the Circulation goes to this box in pic attached All pumps are the same spec .

Other than opening up the Samsung junction, , including the two white boxes on the floor if it helps , then I assume it’s wired correctly.

The two black wires from white boxes go to Zone valves 

@jamespa so both feeds to the HP line pumps go to the Samsung controller and the Circulation goes to this box in pic attached All pumps are the same spec .

Other than opening up the Samsung junction, , including the two white boxes on the floor if it helps , then I assume it’s wired correctly.

Posted by: @alfapat

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@jamespa so both feeds to the HP line pumps go to the Samsung controller and the Circulation goes to this box in pic attached All pumps are the same spec .

Sounds like the HP side pumps are controlled by the HP.

Posted by: @alfapat

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The two black wires from white boxes go to Zone valves 

By zone valves you mean the two valves which either switch to CH or DHW?

The circuit diagram doesn't match the connection styles/positions on the circuit board.

I'm particularly anxious about the thin white wires which might be carrying 240v AC to a "Booster Heater".

That 20A fuse might be on-board.
I don't know if it's replaceable or soldered in.

A fuse must protect the wire, and should be of a lower current rating.

I'm unsure what's happening in this area of the control PCB, but I'd be investigating further.

Posted by: @transparent

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The circuit diagram doesn't match the connection styles/positions on the circuit board.

I'm particularly anxious about the thin white wires which might be carrying 240v AC to a "Booster Heater".

That 20A fuse might be on-board.
I don't know if it's replaceable or soldered in.

A fuse must protect the wire, and should be of a lower current rating.

I'm unsure what's happening in this area of the control PCB, but I'd be investigating further.

I think those wires might be sensor connections possibly to the points marked wht 1 2 on the diagram

So where are the connections for the "Booster Heater"?

I don't see any thick wires arriving at that point on the board.

Is that terminal block absent in this version, perhaps?

I think @alfapat needs to start labelling cables where they enter the controller box.

The outer sheath of mains cables can be written on with pencil or ball-tip.
You don't need a special marker.

I tend to use a bit of white PVC tape when first pulling cables through.

Once they're in their connection box, I switch to a label around the outer cable,
which I hold in place with clear heat-shrink sleeving

On Alphapat's controller box I don't like:

• the use of brown/blue cables for the low-voltage RS485 connections on the right
• the use of a brown for a 'switched live'. In house wiring that would be blue with a section of brown sleeving
• a cable arriving through the 2nd rubber grommet which has no strain-relief on the outer white insulation

I wouldn't allow an electrician to connect into my consumer units like that.

@transparent I dont disagree in principle but ... in the real world where time is money and the customer doesnt want to pay the latter

• existing cable runs get reused for sensor cables or bus, or whatever cable the installer happens to have in his bag gets used
• switched lines use whatever is spare (personally I would at least put an indicator wrap on it when I do DiY,- I dont do it for others so cant comment on this)
• cables through rubber grommets should have strain relief but if the equipment doesn't provide for it and the cable isn't going far then the inevitable happens!

I watched my heat pump installer work on his own for a week, arriving at 8am and leaving at 9pm on one night and 7pm on another, with no break at all during the day.  I can forgive some things!

Posted by: @transparent

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So where are the connections for the "Booster Heater"?

I don't see any thick wires arriving at that point on the board.

Is that terminal block absent in this version, perhaps?

there may not be a booster heater fitted, they are not used that often to the best of my knowledge.

I think what makes this installation the more confusing is that the installer has only used three-core (lighting flex) for everything.

When he's needed three cores plus earth for the "3-way valve", he's used two separate cables.
The two blues are connected to different Neutral points,
one of the browns is the live supply via an on-board fuse
whilst the other is a switched-live.

Both browns are outputs from the controller board.

Without any labels it's too easy to get the browns the wrong way around.

And there is a strain-relief position for the un-clamped cable,
but he just didn't fit a cable tie through it. 😣 

I think the Booster Heater port is for the DHW immersion heater.

There's no other terminal labelled for that,
and it's the only output which we would expect to have a 20A fuse indicated on the schematic.