@rann1888 unless you have access to free or cheap wood then  running a log burner isn’t a cheap option. Checkout the price of logs in your area. Cost of install is also pretty high. I did a DIY install for my wood stove and it still cost almost a grand.  

@rann1888 hi ran. Your control system looks like mine , Nest. I enclose my equivalent

the only thing I can see different is you hear all night and up to 22C compared to my settings  This could be where your increased costs are?

Have you tried adjusting the heat down?  You could set back more at night

My costs of electric for Nov were £136 totally, including 2 EVs, cooking, etc.  So I think it’s worth investigating and call-out an engineer 

Hi renewable-heat-hubbers (or whatever’s your collective name is)!

I’ve got an 80’s semi detached bungalow, wood frame, suspended timber floor, unvented hot water immersion cylinder & storage heaters. I’m currently working on bringing it into the 21st century - currently improving the insulation. Loft done, new double glazing fitted, and inside of external walls lined with thermal board. Next up is insulating the floor before putting down wet underfloor heating (uHeat).

I haven’t made a final decision, but currently thinking along the lines of an ASHP (make?), a Mixergy cylinder (unvented), Arada wood burning boiler stove & immersion backup. So I’ve got a few questions and am interested in the group’s opinions and experience - but tempting as it is to ask them now, I’ll check through the older posts first!

Posted by: @alec-morrow

@flowboy ironically the technology upon which these systems rely (open therm) was developed at Glasgow university in the late 80s, and sold by Honeywell to a consortium of European boiler manufacturers for £1 in 1992

 

the rest is history…

Probably after a lot of public finance had been put into it before the cost gave them cold feet...

Lack of foresight or faith in the idea

"Mixing control strategies".

This interested me because we are currently running on compensation curve all salus thermostats on manual. So ecodan is running system just using the salus thermostats as room thermometers.

I would like to set back the temperature on a night from 21 to 19 and have 2 options, either set back on the salus thermostats or change the Ftc to timer mode so the salus thermostats dont come into the equation, no mixing of control stratergies so the system doesn't gets confused.

I would be interested in your thoughts please 

@sand what make is the heat pump, and what where do you set the heat curve? Is it on a room unit?

Hi Alec its a Mitsubishi Ecodan, we set the curve on the Ftc situated in the garage. We have ufh and rads upstairs we also have a Mitsubishi wireless controller for rads upstairs.

@sand can you post a link?

Sorry post a link ? Of all the equipment do you mean.

Of the controller there seems to be an FTC 5 and 6

Its this one Im just trying to change the timer settings now, it will let me set the temp for zone 2  upstairs but cant seem to set temp on zone 1 downstairs, so may have to do the set back on the salus thermostats like we did before, but then we mixing again, and will that still be in compensation curve.

@sand OK this is the problem..the controller that will optimise the heat pump is not that one...salus controllers do not feed back to the heat pump in any meaningful way.FTC 5 OR 6 is the one that does that but it to be effective it needs to be in one of the zones in the house not in the Garage (although it may well be set up not to reflect the garage temperature)