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Samsung E911 intermittent issue

NetDonkey · 2024-12-06T21:32:07Z

Hi all, Been having a trawl through the forums for the E911 and have a few other queries. I have a AE080CXYDEK which was installed back in June and has been working well. Recently, however, we have had a couple of E911 errors which has led me to dig into our install a bit more. Using our MIM i can see the flow is around 7.2-7.4lpm which is almost at the HP's minimum in which the E911 error starts. I have queried our installer (electrician who installed the solar and battery and subsequently subbed the ASHP install out) and it's taking a while to get anywhere. So my queries are as follows: We have a Evosta 3 set to fixed curve regulation mode level3. Is this correct? It looks like the Evosta has been installed upside down but I assume it was done this way due to the flow direct? I can stop it from erroring by only running the heating and within 15 mins of powering on the DHW it trips (subsequently in the last 12hrs I have had both running and it hasn't tripped). Does this narrow down what the issue could be? In another thread, Mars mentioned checking the Y strainer. Is this easy to do as a novice or should I be pushing to get the plumber to come out and check. If it's easy where is it usually located and what does it look like? How happy are other plumbers to come out and diagnose a system they havent put it and is it worth doing this? Thanks!

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Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHPs)

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ASHP-BOBBA

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12/12/2024 12:11 pm

@netdonkey did you do it via the grant BUS scheme?

AAC Group Ltd covering the Kent Area for design, supply and installation of ASHP systems, service and maintenance, diagnostics and repairs.
Professional installer. Book a one-to-one consultation for pre- and post-installation advice, troubleshooting and system optimisation.

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NetDonkey

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Topic starter 12/12/2024 12:29 pm

@ashp-bobba Lower pump, bottom right

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NetDonkey

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Topic starter 12/12/2024 12:33 pm

Posted by: @ashp-bobba

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@netdonkey did you do it via the grant BUS scheme?

Home Energy Scotland scheme

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ASHP-BOBBA

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12/12/2024 12:38 pm

@netdonkey well I would imagine you would be covered in the same way.

Yes, the Home Energy Scotland (HES) Grant and Loan Scheme has several compliance requirements, including:

Installer certification

Installers must be certified by a regulatory body to ensure that the installation meets industry standards. For example, installers for low carbon microgeneration measures must be accredited by the Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS).
Energy Performance Certificate (EPC)

Homeowners must obtain an EPC as a qualification condition.
Written offer

Homeowners must receive a written loan and/or grant offer before any work begins.
Funding claim

Homeowners must claim the funding and complete the work within 12 months of receiving the written offer.

The HES Grant and Loan Scheme is part of the Heat in Buildings Programme, which is funded by the Scottish Government. The scheme is not means tested and offers a mix of interest free loans and cashback.

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ASHP-BOBBA

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12/12/2024 12:39 pm

@netdonkey ok, So its sounds like the the Wilo is doing the main ASHP F/R and is set to full speed.

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NetDonkey

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Topic starter 14/12/2024 7:48 pm

engineer is booked to come Thursday. One thing I have noticed is that the circulation pump is pushing water through at 0.8m3/h which is roughly 18lpm. Flow sensor still says around 7lpm. I’ve had a Quick Look outside where the ASHP is and found the attached. Is this another filter?

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Transparent

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14/12/2024 7:54 pm

Yes. It's usually called a strainer.

It's also uninsulated,
...and the adjacent pipe insulation isn't sealed.

This will allow ingress of rain water between the pipe and insulation, rendering it useless.

Water will run down the outside of the pipe, absorbing heat and throwing it away on the ground.

What markings are on that external insulation?

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NetDonkey

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Topic starter 14/12/2024 8:24 pm

@transparent I will have a look first thing. Tis rather dark and wet. Tried to open the strainer with one hand while holding a torch so I could see what I was doing!!

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ASHP-BOBBA

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14/12/2024 10:46 pm

Hi Net,

Glad you have found the strainer, hopefully its nicely blocked, quick clean and then get some flow rate back

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Transparent

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15/12/2024 9:28 am

Opening that strainer, will of course lose fluid from the system and introduce air.

You don't have isolation valves on either side of it which would've limited those effects.
But have a look at the pipework and see if you have any manual valves which stop both flow and return from going to the external unit.

I've not previously met a strainer on an external run.
Perhaps it's a requirement stipulated in the manufacturer's installation guide.

Please take a photo of the strainer so we can see it 😀

When you replace it, take care to ensure there's no grit or hair on the seal, which is probably a neoprene rubber o-ring.
Just run it under the tap to get rid of debris.

I normally remove any o-rings which have needed cleaning, dry them with a piece of kitchen paper towel,
and then lightly smear silicon-grease on them before re-fitting.

You may not have such a consumable, but I've previously made do with vaseline or olive oil !

The idea is to ensure that the o-ring smoothly glides back into its seating without being pinched.

Do you know if the installer put any additives into the loop which supplies your radiators and the heat pump?

There might be an anti-freeze, such as glycol,
or perhaps a corrosion-inhibitor, such as Fernox F1 or Sentinel.

This should be mentioned in the commissioning notes,
and there's often a sticker taken from the bottle of inhibitor which gets put in a prominent position close to the braided refill-hose.

There may be no additives at all, so don't waste too much time looking!

This post was modified 11 months ago by Transparent

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NetDonkey

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Topic starter 15/12/2024 10:30 am

Sadly the strainer was clean but the act of opening, removing and closing again has bumped the loom lpm up to 8.5 which has stopped it from tripping out.

The insulation is armacell Armadale but looks like all the joins haven’t been taped.

There is a additive in it called

something like x.509. There is a spare bottle of it in the shed I will look at later.

plumber is coming out Thursday but I’m not sure what’s left to check do for him to get the lpm up.

This post was modified 11 months ago by Transparent

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Transparent

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15/12/2024 11:04 am

OK, so things are heading in the right direction.
There may still be some air in the pipes which has yet to come out.

Or you could now be approaching the flow limit which is imposed by the very nature of the pipework.
The bore and sharpness of bends become more of an issue once other factors are removed.

Brass features, such as valves and filters, are available in 'standard' and 'full bore' alternatives.
Each 'standard' fitting imposes a restriction which reduces the flow.

Armacell is a good make of closed-cell Class-O nitrile-rubber pipe insulation.

But they manufacture both for internal and (UV resistant) external use.
It matters which part number is printed on the black insulation.

They do have an adhesive tape for sealing joints,
but personally I'd also be applying a bead of mastic around the end of each section of insulation too.