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Air source heat pump performance

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Mars
 Mars
(@editor)
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@heacol

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Mars
 Mars
(@editor)
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@heacol, I guess it's figuring out how to plumb things then. Still a bit apprehensive if I've being honest because of the pipework we inherited and which the installers retrofitted to. But open to suggestions. Not sure how we increase volume in the tank given that we have glycol in the system which I assume is in the water in the buffer tank.

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(@markc)
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Posted by: @derek-m

Hi Everyone,

If you wish to fully optimise your heating system, i would suggest that you spend a little time understanding how your system is constructed and how it is designed to operate.

Looking at all the pipework and wiring may be a little daunting, but these system are not really that complex. If you do not have a schematic diagram for your system it may be possible to trace out the pipes and wires and create your own. When it comes to the individual components, as I often say in jest, ' if all else fails, read the instructions'. If you don't have the instructions then carry out a Google search. Understanding your system is important if you wish to fully optimise its operation.

If you need anything explaining then get in touch.

Hi @derek-m, In readiness for our weather compensation setup next week here is a diagram of my setup as I understand it.

Heating system

   
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(@markc)
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@derek-m Slightly amended.

Heating system2

   
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(@derek-m)
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@markc Ready to get started whenever you wish, though it may be better to do it under the 'Fine tuning your ASHP' thread. If you could post this weeks data before we start then I can see what has been happening and what improvements it may be possible to make.


   
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(@heacol)
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@editor Looks an interesting system. From to pictures it appears that you have 3 pumps running in addition to your pumps in the heat pump and boiler. That is £300.00 - £400.00 a year directly on your heating bill without any benifit.

If you would like me to help, please can you fill in this drawing with the flow and return pipes, valves as an  X on the pipe and all the pumps as a 0 on the pipes. It appears that you have a 3 port, full bore diverter valve (orange head) which is a good start (they are expensive). I can then evaluate your system to suggest alterations.

image

Director at Heacol Consultants ltd


   
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(@heacol)
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@markc Your system is very cloce to what it should be. Here are the alteratins that need to be done, chiange your control to full weather compensation and leave it allone. You will find you bills plummit and your comfort levels increase.

image

Director at Heacol Consultants ltd


   
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(@markc)
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Posted by: @heacol

@markc Your system is very cloce to what it should be. Here are the alteratins that need to be done, chiange your control to full weather compensation and leave it allone. You will find you bills plummit and your comfort levels increase.

image

@heacol

Thanks Brendan. So changing the synchron valves for diverter valves makes the change that the hot water flow is no longer stopped, but allowed to keep flowing and is diverted back to the return pipework for that particular circuit. Is that correct?

Rather than removing the thermostats, I'm assuming just ramping them up to 40º, so they call for heat all the time will have the same effect.

Thanks for pointing out that the DHW expansion tank has been added to the wrong pipe. Might there be a reason the installer put it there?

You're saying move the Grundfos heating pump that serves the annex from the flow pipe to the return pipe?


   
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(@derek-m)
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Posted by: @heacol

@editor Looks an interesting system. From to pictures it appears that you have 3 pumps running in addition to your pumps in the heat pump and boiler. That is £300.00 - £400.00 a year directly on your heating bill without any benifit.

If you would like me to help, please can you fill in this drawing with the flow and return pipes, valves as an  X on the pipe and all the pumps as a 0 on the pipes. It appears that you have a 3 port, full bore diverter valve (orange head) which is a good start (they are expensive). I can then evaluate your system to suggest alterations.

image

Mark,

It is true that the 3 additional water pumps will use electrical energy, but I find Brendon's assessment of the cost to be generous towards your electricity supplier. If all 3 pumps were to run continuously at a normal 50 Watts each, for 24 hours per day, 365 days per year, the costs would be £328.50. Dependent upon the diameter of the pipework and the size of your system, you may need at least some of the additional pumping capacity.

Obviously, you need to decide if you intend to make any of the proposed changes before fine tuning your system, otherwise we may just be wasting our time.


   
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(@heacol)
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@markc

So changing the synchron valves for diverter valves makes the change that the hot water flow is no longer stopped, but allowed to keep flowing and is diverted back to the return pipework for that particular circuit. Is that correct? 

No, it is a diverter valve so the water flow eaither goes to the hot water tank or the central heating, curently, when hot water is required the controller shuts the heating vales and opens the hot water valve (or should). Synchton valves are designed for boiler systems, not heat pumps, they are low flow, high temperature valves, not temperature high flow valves. This is the diverter valve you will need.   https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/central-heating-controls-valves-c436/belimo-valves-actuators-c1014/belimo-valves-c408/belimo-3-port-valve-with-dual-vault-actuator-powered-open-spring-return-p21843

Rather than removing the thermostats, I'm assuming just ramping them up to 40º, so they call for heat all the time will have the same effect.

Yes initally, but if you do not remove them, you will find that the savings will not be as great.

Thanks for pointing out that the DHW expansion tank has been added to the wrong pipe. Might there be a reason the installer put it there? 😀 

You're saying move the Grundfos heating pump that serves the annex from the flow pipe to the return pipe?

Yes and power it from the controller and set both pumps to constant head, speed 3, the graph with the horrozontal line.

Director at Heacol Consultants ltd


   
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(@markc)
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Posted by: @derek-m
Posted by: @heacol

@editor Looks an interesting system. From to pictures it appears that you have 3 pumps running in addition to your pumps in the heat pump and boiler. That is £300.00 - £400.00 a year directly on your heating bill without any benifit.

If you would like me to help, please can you fill in this drawing with the flow and return pipes, valves as an  X on the pipe and all the pumps as a 0 on the pipes. It appears that you have a 3 port, full bore diverter valve (orange head) which is a good start (they are expensive). I can then evaluate your system to suggest alterations.

image

Mark,

It is true that the 3 additional water pumps will use electrical energy, but I find Brendon's assessment of the cost to be generous towards your electricity supplier. If all 3 pumps were to run continuously at a normal 50 Watts each, for 24 hours per day, 365 days per year, the costs would be £328.50. Dependent upon the diameter of the pipework and the size of your system, you may need at least some of the additional pumping capacity.

Obviously, you need to decide if you intend to make any of the proposed changes before fine tuning your system, otherwise we may just be wasting our time.

@derek-m this comment about extra pump running costs was directed at @editor.

After consideration, I'm going to keep to the existing system design and valve type for now, set up weather compensation and run it over winter/spring. If at that time we think the COP could still be better I can look at changing the system to @heacol 's design. We would then have a better comparison as to what effect a full flow design has vs what I have now.

x4 full flow valves and moving pumps/thermostats is looking to be around £1500 when you factor in labor costs.

 


   
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(@heacol)
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@markc do not expect to improve your COP very much, if you do not do anything. By the way, you only need 1 valve and about 3 hours of a good plumbers time, arround £400.00. You will save more than that this winter in lower electricity bills and have better comfort levels.

Director at Heacol Consultants ltd


   
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