Help me optimise my ASHP Pipework
I've got a Nibe F2040 ASHP which has been installed for over a year now.
Whilst trying to optimise the system I've wondered if the buffer is causing me issues.
See attached drawing of my system. I have noticed that the pipework at point '1' is cooler than at point '2' and '3'.
The PWM motor is controlled by the Heat Pump to maintain a deltaT and the other 2 pumps are fixed speed (currently setting 2).
Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can better match the circulation pumps to the HP, or how I can prevent the mixing in the buffer.
I'm tempted to ask my installer to add a couple of valves to the top and bottom of the buffer so I can try isolating this completely?
I would suggest that you check your schematic, since it appears to make little sense. A buffer tank would normally have at least 4 connections, 2 in and 2 out. I also don't understand why pipe '1' would be cooler than pipes '2' and '3', if the direction of flow is as shown.
There is often an arrow on the pump body to indicate the direction of flow.
The schematic is correct as drawn and the buffer is Tee'd off the pipework that then goes towards the other 2 pumps.
Apologies pipe '1' was meant to say warmer not cooler.
What is the temperature difference?
Looking at the schematic, I suspect that the combined flow rate through the two pumps on pipes '2' and '3' is greater than the pump on pipe '1'. This will probably have the effect of drawing the cooler water in the return pipe, through the buffer tank, and hence causing it to mix and cool the water from the heat pump. Try reducing the speed of the pumps on pipes '2' and '3' to see if this increases the temperature in the aforementioned pipes.
@luke remove the buffer and it will work properly. The schematic is not a Nibe 2040 configuration. There is no need for the buffer. If you have a blending valve and pump on your under floor manifold, this should be removed and, firstly, I would try to run the system on a single temperature with the internal sensor to control the house temperature, if that does not have adequate control, then set up 2 separate zones through the controller.
Posted by: @derek-mWhat is the temperature difference?
Looking at the schematic, I suspect that the combined flow rate through the two pumps on pipes '2' and '3' is greater than the pump on pipe '1'. This will probably have the effect of drawing the cooler water in the return pipe, through the buffer tank, and hence causing it to mix and cool the water from the heat pump. Try reducing the speed of the pumps on pipes '2' and '3' to see if this increases the temperature in the aforementioned pipes.
I have slowed the pumps down to speed 1 and will report back. I'm not sure of the temperature difference, but it was noticeable by hand. I have access to a thermal camera so I'll get hold of this.
Posted by: @heacol@luke remove the buffer and it will work properly. The schematic is not a Nibe 2040 configuration. There is no need for the buffer. If you have a blending valve and pump on your under floor manifold, this should be removed and, firstly, I would try to run the system on a single temperature with the internal sensor to control the house temperature, if that does not have adequate control, then set up 2 separate zones through the controller.
I agree that ultimately I want the buffer removed or at least put in series as I don't think it has any benefit and we should have sufficient volume in the circuits.
There is no blending valve on the UFH manifold and I run the whole system in WC using the internal sensor to 'adapt' the curve. All TRVS open and heating circulation pump thermostat set as a max stop limit only.
Looking at the below schematic, my system is I believe a similar setup to this, excluding CP6 and EB1 and any associated valves / pipework. CP5 is shown as the buffer vessel (which in my case is a Nibe UKV 20-40)
When looking at that installation manual for the UKV it doesn't actually show my configuration with the buffer, which I would say is different to the SMO20 installer manual screenshot?
Here are a couple of pictures of my setup before it was finished and insulated.
@luke Your valve is fine, remove the items circled and you will have very good performance. You have plenty of system volume for the heat pump.
@heacol thanks for this. I will take these comments back to my installer.
May I ask why you would remove the TF1 filter for a strainer? Is this just to improve flow? Will there be other detrimental effects?
Also I presume you are saying that the system will run from just the charge pump as you are suggesting removal of both heating medium circulation pumps. (I like this idea as it will reduce base load, but I expect my installer will be hesitant to recommend this considering he installed both!)
@luke TF1 filter for a strainer? Is this just to improve flow? Will there be other detrimental effects? just to improve flow and stop parasitic losses. It will have no detrimental effect. It can be put back in parallel with the strainer if you are worried.
The installer will probably balk at removing them, but you are the customer.
- 26 Forums
- 2,282 Topics
- 51 K Posts
- 517 Online
- 5,943 Members
Join Us!
Podcast Picks
Latest Posts
-
RE: Bosch CS5800i 5kW - Experience So Far
Thank you for your continuous research, and posts. As y...
By ectoplasmosis , 2 hours ago
-
RE: Trying to understand my Nibe F1245
@barry-sharp, is this something you could help with?
By Mars , 2 hours ago
-
I signed up for this, I think it will be a good one. Al...
By ASHP-BOBBA , 6 hours ago
-
RE: Installer Fitted 9kW Instead of 11kW Heat Pump and Changed MCS Paperwork - What do I do?
@mairia - if you want to try following the discussion a...
By Transparent , 6 hours ago
-
RE: Heat Loss v Outside Air Temperature
Ideal conditions to collect the data! Although the left...
By cathodeRay , 8 hours ago
-
RE: My DIY Heat Pump installation
@majordennisbloodnok The 'more' button takes me to ...
By Polar bear , 8 hours ago
-
RE: Aira Heat Pump: Stylish Scandinavian Heating
@vsmith1 If you have access to Home Assistant then you ...
By Gmuzz , 9 hours ago
-
RE: Daikin Wireless Thermostat
If you do go for pure WC you may need to adjust the WC ...
By JamesPa , 9 hours ago
-
Aira Intelligence: integrated home energy system
Aira has just announced a new integrated home energy sy...
By Mars , 10 hours ago
-
RE: Low COP and unevenly heated rooms with 12kW Samsung AE120MXTPEH / AE260TNWTEH
i cant trace it. Near the pumps in the basement it seem...
By bonobo , 12 hours ago
-
Daikin Altherma Heating Controls using Onecta Integration via Home Assistant
Ok so likely not setting the world on fire here for rev...
By phil bell , 14 hours ago
-
RE: When to use Octopus Intelligent Go tariff with my heat pump and battery
@grahamf I don't believe there's any issue with the war...
By TreeWizard , 15 hours ago
-
@ashp-bobba That would explain it thank you, I'll take ...
By TreeWizard , 16 hours ago
-
RE: Who's your electricity provider and what's your tariff?
So I’m still with E.ON Next, and I received a pretty sn...
By Mars , 1 day ago
-
RE: First time wall mounting an ASHP
what you need to do is everything you can to remove the...
By ASHP-BOBBA , 1 day ago
-
RE: Air source heat pump roll call – what heat pump brand and model do you have?
Aira 12kW - @gmuzz
By Gmuzz , 1 day ago
-
RE: Grant 13kW Aerona3 - issues getting zones to temp
ASHP switched off per specialists guidance. Seems the b...
By Crimson , 1 day ago
-
RE: Faulty Clivet heat pump out of the box
@steveimpey that is disappointing. I am inclined to agr...
By benson , 1 day ago
-
RE: Octopus Cosy Heat Pump Owners & Discussion Thread
@andrewj Bear with me, this is my first post on this fo...
By KevH , 1 day ago









