Posted by: @bretix

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Not sure if it's the weather or the settings but I find I'm having to tweak the LWT every couple of days as the indoor temp (imo) is too high at 23-24.5 and not cooling overnight, although it's running really well at the moment it's too hot.

Have you yet adjusted the WC settings, it sounds like not.  Its difficult to do whilst its so mild, but once adjusted it should be possible to leave.

To adjust WC settings (in outline)

• Turn all thermostats up to max
• operate heat pump 24x7 (or if you are trying to take advantage of a ToU tarrif according to that schedule
• Open up all TRVs fully
• Set the High OAT end of the curve to something like 27C flow temp (or even 25 for UFH) at 20C
• Ste the low OAT end to design FT at design OAT
• Slowly (a degree a day) reduce the low OAT end until the house is just at the right temperature.  If you overshoot turn it up a degree.

You may need to balance zones/radiators. 

Then leave all, or at worst the vast majority of TRVs and Thermostats open and enjoy a comfortable house for low cost (assuming system well designed).  You will need to repeat when its colder, but once done few adjustments should be needed

@jamespa thanks I'll give that a go

@jamespa sorry yes I have set wc

2102 set at 44ç (max outgoings water temp)

2103 set at 28ç (min outgoings water temp)

2104 set at 0ç ( default min outdoor temp)

2105 set at 20ç (max outdoor temp)

Both controllers set the same as per zone 1.

You're probably right regarding the milder weather but trying to optimise electricity usage.

In essence it's two questions

1. Regarding the overheating (which I'm slowly reducing flows/temps

2. Optimising settings for two HP and controllers.

With 2 controllers however if I keep one on demand (or opposite timed) but manage to get that running as low (ie economy) as I can. Could  I then  set the other to timed demand but with higher WC settings (ie comfort) (there seems to be an option for zone 1 and 2). Or vice versa.

All very complicated and maybe I'm overthinking it but to be it seems like one pump and controller is redundant when there may be a way to run my system more efficiently and comfortably.

Posted by: @bretix

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All very complicated and maybe I'm overthinking it but to be it seems like one pump and controller is redundant when there may be a way to run my system more efficiently and comfortably.

In principle you probably don't at present given it's (presumably) still quite mild, depending on location.  Most likely one alone has sufficient capacity (and may do down to quite a low temperature depending on what your actual, as opposed to surveyed, loss is.  However they may be connected in a way that requires both to be working.

 How do the pumps connect to each other and the zones (if you have a diagram that would help, if you don't it might be a good idea to create one!).  How are the controllers set up, as a master/slave or completely independently.  Are they the R32 or the R290 models?

That may answer if 1 is redundant.  

Whats the floor area and construction of house?  Do you have any data on consumption with presumed previous fossil fuel heating?  This may help with the temperature at which you actually need both.

@jamespa I'm not entirely sure TBF. I'll have a proper look at the weekend.

As the settings are the same I'm assuming it's Master & Slave.

The set up has previously changed when being serviced but I believed it was set up when it needed to kick in with additional heat on extremely cold periods.

There's an option on timed to swap between zone 1&2 but I've not tried the timed option through the controller yet.

I thought I was on a winner today re: WC as only the system pump was active when it was recording outside temp @ 18ç using little energy consumption. But again tonight the thermostat is reading 20.5ç (set up in a cooler room) and the lounge temp is up to 24ç albeit with solar gain today. I am about to purchase a couple of outdoor probes and see if that helps.

It's just not making any difference with the outgoing water temp Ive reduced too (although I am aware it can take a while to adjust).

My concern is for the pump that isn't kicking in having stagnation and seizing despite services so will experiment with both controllers on timed at economy setting in one and comfort in the other (or even both once I've checked how it's set up and assuming the hive thermostat does not affect).

Posted by: @bretix

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My concern is for the pump that isn't kicking in having stagnation and seizing

Many, perhaps most, heat pumps run their water pumps occasionally (sometimes every 24 hrs or once per week) to prevent this.  

Posted by: @bretix

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I thought I was on a winner today re: WC as only the system pump was active when it was recording outside temp @ 18ç using little energy consumption. But again tonight the thermostat is reading 20.5ç (set up in a cooler room) and the lounge temp is up to 24ç albeit with solar gain today. I am about to purchase a couple of outdoor probes and see if that helps.

It's just not making any difference with the outgoing water temp Ive reduced too (although I am aware it can take a while to adjust).

With it being such a mild day and with sun your consumption should be low and solar gain high relative to the house loss.  I personally wouldn't worry if the house temp rises a degree or even two above the target in these circumstances unless you are uncomfortable, its not costing you much if anything.

Posted by: @bretix

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the hive thermostat does not affect)

What is the hive doing?

Posted by: @bretix

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. I am about to purchase a couple of outdoor probes and see if that helps.

Im confused by that, do you not already have outdoor probes and if not how is WC working?

Posted by: @bretix

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I believed it was set up when it needed to kick in with additional heat on extremely cold periods.

That is exactly what I would expect.

I recommend you take a bit of time to understand how your system is supposed to work before fiddling too much, otherwise you risk going down a rabbithole!  The most likely is that it is set up so that the 'secondary' pump kicks in with additional heat on extremely cold periods, but there are other ways it could be set up and, unless you are clear about that, its inevitably going to be difficult for you or others to understand the behaviour!

Re outdoor probes can be added from the ones attached to the units already or at least extended to a recommended north facing position