DHW temp Samsung AE120RXYDEG 12kw ASHP with Gen 6 controller
Posted by: @bami@old_scientist Thank you so much for this info 🙏🏻 I'm still in the very early stages of getting to grips with it all.
The booster is set to Use and the delay time is 75 mins. Overshoot is 0C.
I've decreased the time the tank heats on the schedule down to 60 mins and will see how that goes. This time is below the delay time of 75 mins for the booster anyway, so the booster even while on shouldn't affect anything. As the overshoot is set to 0C that can't be responsible for heating the water higher than the set point.
I agree, it doesn't look like that was the culprit, but was worth checking.
Let us know how you get on.
Samsung 12kW gen6 ASHP with 50L volumiser and all new large radiators. 7.2kWp solar (south facing), Tesla PW3 (13.5kW)
Solar generation completely offsets ASHP usage annually. We no longer burn ~1600L of kerosene annually.
My temp sensor is housed in a small (10mm maybe) dia pocket in the tank. At one time my DHW temp was way too high and I noticed the sensor had become dislodged (so was not reading actual temp. Replacing it brought them temp back to where it shound be and adding a small blob of hot glue has stopped a reoccurrence.
Samsung 12kw ASHP, nine 415w PV panel array, upgraded radiators and DHW water tank (+ pumps etc). Two wireless zone thermostat controllers and Samsung MWR-WW10N
@lenny I think some owners even apply a blob of heat sink compound to ensure good heat conduction to the sensor. Toodles.
Toodles, heats his home with cold draughts and cooks food with magnets.
Could it be that the legionella cycle has been on and you've just noticed it once the temperature has come down a bit but it's still higher than your set temperature?
What temp have you set for your heating water? could there be an issue with the 3 way valve / zone valve?
FWIW I think you are doing the right thing putting the DHW onto timed as it's better for COP to heat the tank from a cooler temp rather than continuously on a 5 deg hysteresis.
@derekdeleon The legionella cycle is on a Tuesday and I took the photo on Saturday, so not it's not that.
Had a look yesterday and the DHW was set to 43C but the temp in the tank after the 2 hour schedule finished was 44.5C. I've now set the schedule to 1 hour but am going to be out this aft when it finishes so will have to check the temp tomorrow.
> could there be an issue with the 3 way valve / zone valve?
No clue! I'm hoping to speak to the installers some time this week so will be having a chat with them about it.
Posted by: @bami@derekdeleon The legionella cycle is on a Tuesday and I took the photo on Saturday, so not it's not that.
Had a look yesterday and the DHW was set to 43C but the temp in the tank after the 2 hour schedule finished was 44.5C. I've now set the schedule to 1 hour but am going to be out this aft when it finishes so will have to check the temp tomorrow.
That is more normal. The DHW heating cycle will turn off the moment the tank reaches the set point (43C in your case), but the circulation pumps continue to run for another minute or so, and the circulating water is likely 7-10C hotter (so maybe 50-53C) and some of that heat will transfer into the DHW tank after the set point has been reached, so it is normal and to be expected for the final temperature to end up 1-2C higher than the set point, but not 4-5C higher as per your original post.
Samsung 12kW gen6 ASHP with 50L volumiser and all new large radiators. 7.2kWp solar (south facing), Tesla PW3 (13.5kW)
Solar generation completely offsets ASHP usage annually. We no longer burn ~1600L of kerosene annually.
Ive had a look for the specs of your cylinder online, but unfortunately I cannot find any schematic detailing where a sensor might be sited. So whether this is a contributory factor or not I cant say.
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