@morgan I am assuming that there has been no change to the LED's or ASHP operation. Are there any error messages on the thermostat, or is there any form of indication to show that pairing has actually been accomplished?

Try increasing the thermostat setpoint to 30C, if the flame signal lights on the thermostat display but none of the LED's light on the RF-Switch, it would indicate that the thermostat and RF-Switch are not paired, that the thermostat has a fault on the RF circuit or that the RF-Switch is faulty.

Either way you will have to get the 'experts' back to replace the faulty equipment.

@heacol Brendon, that is amazing, what is the timescale and where in the UK is this system installed?

Posted by: @derek-m

@morgan With your system switched on, set the desired temperature on your thermostat at 15C and wait for up to 15 minutes to see if the Boiler LED switches on or off and the ASHP stops.

@derek-m

Nothing happens.  I seriously appreciate your time Derek but I think I need the installers back here because no matter what the only way I’ve successfully managed to turn it off is to shut off the power. 

Posted by: @derek-m

@morgan I am assuming that there has been no change to the LED's or ASHP operation. Are there any error messages on the thermostat, or is there any form of indication to show that pairing has actually been accomplished?

Try increasing the thermostat setpoint to 30C, if the flame signal lights on the thermostat display but none of the LED's light on the RF-Switch, it would indicate that the thermostat and RF-Switch are not paired, that the thermostat has a fault on the RF circuit or that the RF-Switch is faulty.

Either way you will have to get the 'experts' back to replace the faulty equipment.

 

@derek-m

No change. No error messages.  The only indication of pairing succeeding is after holding the CH1 or Boiler button for 5 seconds is the corresponding flashing several times then stopping and extinguishing to signal pairing is complete as per P12 of the manual.  The 30c setting does nothing.

I can only assume that it was initially set and commissioned correctly but at hand over the guy tried demonstrating various scenarios to us. I can only assume he failed/forgot to return it to the proper setting and hence the unit, albeit paired, isn’t set to be controlled by the room stat.

I’ve waited all day for a call back which didn’t come.  I’m still withholding about £6.5k of monies due so that should concentrate their efforts hopefully.

@derek-m That is what it was this morning with an ambient temperature od 3 deg C and an room temperature of 21 deg C, because the system runs continuously, without any third party intervention (thermoststs, buffer tanks or system seperation) Iw will remain at this level cindefernatly if the ambient tenlerature does not chainge, however it will get better if the ambient temperature goes up andn vice versa.

This is how an open zone radiator system performs, under floor is better than this.

@morgan Obviously I cannot comment on whether your system was correctly commissioned in the first place, since I was not there. Did you try my previous suggestion of changing the FTC6 controller from weather compensation to flow control?

@heacol The house must be very well insulated to produce that type of result, what was the water flow temperature? I didn't realise the temperature had fallen to 3C yet in the UK, where is the system located?

Posted by: @derek-m

@morgan Obviously I cannot comment on whether your system was correctly commissioned in the first place, since I was not there. Did you try my previous suggestion of changing the FTC6 controller from weather compensation to flow control?

@derek-m

To be honest I don’t know.  I’ve tried so many suggestions I don’t recall.

@morgan Good luck with getting your 'experts' back.

Posted by: @derek-m

@heacol The house must be very well insulated to produce that type of result, what was the water flow temperature? I didn't realise the temperature had fallen to 3C yet in the UK, where is the system located?

@derek-m

No, it is not well insulated, it has solid sandstone walls, double glazing and 200mm of insulation in the loft, build at the turn of the last century, it is just north of Glasgow.

COP has nothing to do with insulation, it is the result of system design. If you do not control your system properly, your radiators are incorrectly sized and your system is badly designed, (buffer tanks, system separation and third-party thermostats) you do not stand a chance of having a good COP.

If it is designed and controlled correctly, you can expect this level of performance regarbless of insulation levels. Insulation, levels, exposure, draft profing, buiding construction and occupent preferences all have to be taken in to account when the design is conducted. NOT the EPC, they are not worth the paper they are written on.

Do you drive your car at 70 miles per hour in third gear with your foot flat and control the speed with the key? Or, do you put it in 6th gear and switch on cruise control?

Posted by: @heacol

Here is a picture from one of my customenrs controllers, taken today, the external temperature is 3 Deg C and the house is 21 Deg C. The system is piped and controlled exactly as I have described above. COP of 7.4.

@heacol, that is the highest COP I have ever seen registered from any user in the UK. Is this a Panasonic air to water unit and what is the model because that is extremely impressive indeed.

Posted by: @derek-m

@morgan Good luck with getting your 'experts' back.

@derek-m

Thanks.  It's very frustrating.  The fact I'm holding back a considerable sum of money might concentrate their minds.

Thanks very much for your efforts on my behalf. Truly appreciated.  At least I know that the system is very capable of getting my house toasty warm. Just needs fine tuning to get it as efficient as possible.  Responding to the room stat will be a positive move because powering off to stop the heating is a bit of a PITA.

Cheers.