Volumisers in Heat Pump Systems: Does Placement Matter?
@sunandair my graphs look similar on my ecodan. And when you make it 2 defrost and hour...... you can see how they struggle
Posted by: @davidnolan22I was having big trouble with defrosts and recovery from them, which is a little better now I've stopped asking for LWT that my system can't get to. But the recovery from defrosts is a struggle. My installer put in a bigger volume low loss header and zone values off them to try (I think) to stop the secondary circuits being open with defrost. But this has done nothing other than give me a small blending problem at the header than I didn't have before. The secondary circuits keep pumping during defrosts. My heat loss is about 11k at -3. I think my system volume is about 150L. with my generally low flow temps, do you think there is a case for more system volume. On another forum, I've been advised that 300L of system volume may help defrost.
Or, defrost are just part an parcel of a heat pump, deal with it, and 150L is still plenty for an 11.2KW ecodan even at 30 degree flow temps.
If your heat loss is 11kW and your heat pump is struggling to meet that (what is the actual heat output at 0C to -2C?), then the system may well struggle to recover from defrosts. This would be more a symptom of an undersized heat pump than a lack of volume, but a larger volume may help as there will be a larger store of heat for the defrost to call upon and consequently less impact on the system.
Have a look at the published data for maximum heat output for your heat pump under defrost conditions. If it cannot meet the demand then that is your issue.
Posted by: @davidnolan22
Hi James,
on this topic: you've given good advice to me in the past and I'm working through things with my heat pump set up with the help of my installer. There have been some design issues, but I'm slowly getting to grips with it.
Running my system totally open and constant has helped a lot. I've got a mix of UFH ground floor and rads upstairs. (Ecodan 11.2Kw). But the design temperatures were meant to be the same as we have no mixing valves, but they are not. I can run the UFH system with really quite low temps. when its around freezing an LWT of 33 keep those rooms to a lovely temp of 20. The bedrooms above are about 17, which I think I'll just have to live with as I'm not putting more rads on the walls.
Firstly thank you for the feedback, its always good to get.
The only way I can see you could balance the temperatures would be to throttle the UFH. This will push up the required LWT so will increase cost, but perhaps not by too much in return for the additional comfort. Do check that all your upstairs rads arent throttled (some may be but the majority probably dont need to be).
Posted by: @davidnolan22I was having big trouble with defrosts and recovery from them, which is a little better now I've stopped asking for LWT that my system can't get to. But the recovery from defrosts is a struggle. My installer put in a bigger volume low loss header and zone values off them to try (I think) to stop the secondary circuits being open with defrost. But this has done nothing other than give me a small blending problem at the header than I didn't have before. The secondary circuits keep pumping during defrosts. My heat loss is about 11k at -3. I think my system volume is about 150L. with my generally low flow temps, do you think there is a case for more system volume. On another forum, I've been advised that 300L of system volume may help defrost.
Or, defrost are just part an parcel of a heat pump, deal with it, and 150L is still plenty for an 11.2KW ecodan even at 30 degree flow temps.
Defrost is part and parcel of a heat pump, so expect it. The issue arises if its taking too long and worse still if it doesnt complete, which will case the heat pump to lock up (In another thread locking up happens to someone when they have a bath and its cold outside). So if its not causing an insuperable problem, probably just leave it.
That said, what your installer has done is pretty much the exact opposite of what I would have done! I think the problem you have is that an LWT of 33 is quite low, and presumably its a bit lower still when the temp is above freezing. So the amount of energy available from the system to 'fuel' defrost is correspondingly low. I also suspect that much or part of it isnt reaching the heat pump during defrost because of the zone valves (please delete them or force them permanently open) and/or the LLH.
I can see two possible options if just forcing open the zone valves doesnt fix it:
1. Simplify the system - delete zone valves, secondary pump and LLH. This will ensure that the full system volume is available for defrost and also eliminate any mixing, improving COP
2. Add a volumiser on the heat pump side of the LLH to provide additional water for defrost
The first is obviously major surgery, but (unless there was a sound reason for the LLH in the first place) makes for a more efficient system where faults are easier to diagnose. Its just possible that, if you do this, you will still need a volumiser (repurpose the LLH for this!)
Hope that gives you some food for thought. There are some other options but they get more complex.
4kW peak of solar PV since 2011; EV and a 1930s house which has been partially renovated to improve its efficiency. 7kW Vaillant heat pump.
Posted by: @davidnolan22@sunandair my graphs look similar on my ecodan. And when you make it 2 defrost and hour...... you can see how they struggle
genuine interest in your situation and your Ecodan. Have you listed your equipment anywhere?
I’m very busy today so unable to respond now but will revert next day. Your Location and equipment may help to understand.
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