No they haven't modified the system all

No temperature difference either when using less

Posted by: @tinkestral-6

↑

No temperature difference either when using less

OK, please forgive me, what does that mean?  Using less what?  Insulation?

The installation manual for the Ideal Logic Air says there is a temperature sensor installed on the flow and return pipework from/to the heat pump.  I don't see them in the photos (but they might be very small).  If they're installed inside your house (maybe in the loft) you could remove all the outside insulation and still get the same flow temperature, because the controller would increase heat pump power to get the required temperature.

Do you know where the temperature sensors are?

Bob

@bobtskutter I don't know where sensors are

When I said using less I meant using less electric even though it was cold. Thanks for replying 😊 

@tinkestral-6

OK lets get back to doing some basic optimisation on your system.  The good news is that you dont have a buffer or (so far as can be told from the photos) any system separation causing avoidable losses, so it should be fairly straightforward.

First please can you post a picture of the Halo including the model number.  We need to check its the heat pump specific one.

Secondly It would be a good idea to read this introduction so you have a good understanding of the principles

Luckily Ideal is one of the easier heat pumps on which to adjust the WC curve

Then to adjust for most efficient operation:

1. Set the 'Room influence' Heating Zone 1 parameter in the Installer parameter menu (parameter 750) to 0.  This means it will ignore the room temperature and work on pure weather compensation 

2. Set all thermostats to well above the target temperature and TRVs to max (or better remove the heads)

3. Set the heat pump to heat operate 24*7 if it isnt already (it wont heat the house when DHW is scheduled - but it will take care of this itself).

4. Slowly reduce the WC curve, perhaps one step per day (you can go faster initially if its obviously getting too hot) until either the house is at the right temperature or slightly too cold

5. If the latter, turn the WC curve up a notch

6. If the rooms settle at different temperatures during 3-4, you may need to balance the radiators.  This means turning them up or down on the lockshield valve (the valve at the opposite end to the TRV).  Please come back for a more detailed procedure if you find that this needs to be done.

Once the heat pump is operating at the lowest possible WC curve, 24*7 or thereabouts, and your house just gets to the right temperature with all TRVs and thermostats set well above target temperature, you have something pretty close to the optimum operating point, ie just heating the house at the lowest possible flow temperature.  There may be minor tweaks, but the starting point is pretty much always this.  

Expect to take about a week, perhaps a bit more, perhaps a bit less depending on how balanced your radiators are

Before you change an parameters make a note of what they were.

Please come back if you need further explanation and please be sure you understand it before you start.  Keep us posted.

Please dont get obsessed with comparing day to day energy consumption, unfortunately the 'scatter' on daily energy consumption is so high that only carefully adjusted averages over many measurements are reliable.  Of course it can be done, but not without many weeks of data.

Hope that helps.

Thank you . I will do this today 

@jamespa

@tinkestral-6 Thanks for the picture.  Is there a model number or any other ID on the rear?

We've just had the plumber out who adjusted a few things but after a conversation with insulation guys I think our dreams and living in a warm home at a reasonable cost is gone. 

The insulation guys will only be doing loft insulation and will not be doing the cavity wall bead insulation. They've said our walls are to moist and had damp issues. We have to dig trenches round the property backfill with gravel and they will comeback and check in a few month's.. while I don't doubt the insulation guys are not professionals our last home did have damp which you could clearly see however this one doesn't show the signs of damp. 

The manager is coming out Monday to have a look at the system as he agrees looking at the costs it will probably not be as viable as first thought 

Posted by: @tinkestral-6

↑

The manager is coming out Monday to have a look at the system as he agrees looking at the costs it will probably not be as viable as first thought 

May I ask what your previous heating was, you said it was all electric, what type?

I wouldn't despair, most of the heat goes through the roof not the walls and that's been insulated which will make a big difference.  If they havent put 300mm in the loft, you could try pushing for an upgrade to the loft insulation in lieu of the cavity walls!

Unless you previous heating was storage heaters run on a cheap night rate, then the ASHP should still work out much cheaper to run once its been optimised.

So our previous heating was electric storage heaters . The costs were no different to what were using now.i think the only difference now is we have heating in the small hallway which we didn't have before. 

As I've said if cost wasn't a issue I'd be so pleased. 

I'm going to ask as suggested for additional loft insulation. It's worth a try. 

So the plumber who came yesterday told us our rads needed to be turned up to hottest settings and left like that ..last night my radiator was super hot 🔥. We do also have a small radiator in hallway that's always hotter than all other radiators. It also has no adjustments to turn it down. The plumber said it's a buffer radiator.

Posted by: @tinkestral-6

↑

So our previous heating was electric storage heaters . The costs were no different to what were using now.i think the only difference now is we have heating in the small hallway which we didn't have before. 

If they were heated up only at night on a very cheap night-time tarrif, they could possibly work out cheaper than ASHP unless you get the right tarrif for the latter.  Is this what you were doing and what tarrif are you now on?

Posted by: @tinkestral-6

↑

So the plumber who came yesterday told us our rads needed to be turned up to hottest settings and left like that ..last night my radiator was super hot 🔥. We do also have a small radiator in hallway that's always hotter than all other radiators. 

He is right, but at the same time not.  Lets come back to this once you have answered the above.

Posted by: @tinkestral-6

↑

The plumber said it's a buffer radiator.

Thats sort of nonsense but I can imagine what he might have meant.  Again lets come back to this once you have answered the above