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Mitsubishi Ecodan ASHP general set-up and efficiency

ngillam · 2024-08-27T16:02:15Z

Hello all, new to the forum and keen to get the most out of our system. Long story short we live in a 185 sq metre new build barn with what I believe is an ECODAN 5kw ASHP coupled to underfloor heating. The building is very open plan consisting of two large bedrooms with two large bathrooms two large open lounges an open kitchen, boot room and attached art studio/workshop. We're located atop a hill in North Oxfordshire with south facing glazing to the rear so the sun does play it's part in cooking us in the summer. The installers provided an original set-up at the beginning of the year but without dwelling too much the property had a flood which resulted in the dehumidifiers and the heating ramp up to clear the effects of the flooding which is thankfully done with no lasting effects. It's been a number of months but I'm keen to get the set-up back to design intent, I'm a quick learner and would like to know all and eek the best out of what we have, we suffered a number of power-cuts recently and my partner jabbed away at god knows what to get things back on, she can't resist pushing buttons, it's an odd thing! but I wasn't around to prevent it. The attached images show the set-up, I've noticed since the powercuts the timers (of which we have two) need to be on for the showers to have hot water supplied to them. If off the water is cold despite hot water in tank...don't remember that being the case prior to power outage?? I have 2 x timers, one next to water tank (210 litre) and one above UFH manifolds so assuming each control each, water and heating? Each room has it's own similar thermostat and with it getting colder I'm keen to get the set-up running as efficiently as possible. There's two of us, occasional guests/kids visiting at weekends. Tank set to 48 degs with a drop of 7 before reheat. I think the timing thing has thrown me a little, which is master? The FTC or the individual timers I've indicated in photos? Can any kind soul see anything obvious or give a base setting I should be looking at to work from? Thanks, Neil.

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Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHPs)

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Derek M

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15/09/2024 5:50 pm

@ngillam

Check the thermistor readings as detailed in the attached video.

If the controller is indicating -39C then check to see if the controller is correctly configured. Also check to see if the thermistor is wired to the correct connection.

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Gary

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15/09/2024 5:55 pm

@ngillam now you have access to the app at the bottom of the screen is a reports tab then press hourly temperature it will display the flow and return temps for the most recent hour. At the top of the screen will be the time press that and you can select any hour in the last 24 hours so you can see exactly when the heat pump was on and what temp it was running at.

As your system is running off 3rd party thermostats that -39C reading won’t matter it’s the temperature near to the controller unit.

This post was modified 12 months ago by Gary

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ngillam

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Topic starter 15/09/2024 6:44 pm

@derek-m

Well there's the culprit I suppose, looks as though it's going to be a long term investigation, I'm heading aay for a few days. Thanks for the tip.

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ngillam

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Topic starter 15/09/2024 6:51 pm

@gary

Haven't scrutinised it yet, productive day sorting the shed. Those readings look wrong though, looks a headache!

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Gary

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15/09/2024 7:13 pm

@ngillam that’s heating the hot water you can see the red line increasing at the same time check some of the other hours of the day when it was heating the house

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ngillam

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Topic starter 27/10/2024 3:09 pm

Hello Gary,

Still struggling with this, seems we can't get the house cool enough, won't go below 22degs, if I alter the WC curve to its lowest temp (20degs) then I suffer cycling which I've seen on other threads. It seems the house is really well insulated and we're just not losing the heat, the other half is getting a bit annoyed at the high temps.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Neil

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Gary

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27/10/2024 3:21 pm

At this time of year you will need to use your thermostats to limit overheating. Are they heatmiser as well? Now you have set the warm end of the curve you can set the thermostats to the max temp you want then the heat pump should shut off unless you have multiple zones in the UFH linked to numerous thermostats?

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ngillam

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Topic starter 27/10/2024 5:29 pm

@gary This is my set up, I thought the idea was to let the heatmisers (in each room) run free? Mine are at 35 degs but sit at about 22 degs. my partner wants to open windows to cool the place off but that seems wasteful. All underfloor heating is hard to control.

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Gary

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27/10/2024 6:00 pm

If you can’t control the house temp through the flow temps you will have to have thermostats to stop the house getting hotter than required.

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ngillam

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Topic starter 27/10/2024 6:30 pm

@gary By flow temps you mean those set via WC curve? Just had a thought, all the trickle vents are closed on the windows!!

I think you said your set up was similar to mine Gary, can I ask your KWH for Oct? heating and DH combined?

Thanks,

Neil.

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Gary

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27/10/2024 6:44 pm

Yes the flow temps in the WC curve you are running as cool as possible but that is still overheating the house so all you can do is turn it off when the house gets hot enough.

I don’t measure the heat pump consumption separately but I estimate it about 10kwh a day for water and heating in October. This is all done overnight at cheap rate the house doesn’t cool down enough during the day for the heating to come back on again.

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Anonymous 5011

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27/10/2024 6:55 pm

Posted by: @ngillam

↑

all the trickle vents are closed on the windows!!

Not the best option for ventilation! You will end up with a house that hot and stuffy, the stuffy feeling isn't because it's hot, its rubbish air quality, humidity and high CO2 levels

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