@derek-m thank you! I’ll have a good look at the manual, this is really useful!
before I change anything with the heating I just wanted to clarify. Both zone 1 and zone 2 were off and heating was working on both floors but controlled with the flow rate set at 55 when we moved in. The photo showing zone 1 on and zone 2 off,as when I went into wether compensation, these are the options that came up. I have only switched on zone 1 as it says ‘high temp’ and this is the curve I wanted to select. I wasn’t sure what the purpose of the low temp curve was so have left zone 2 off. I have attached a screen shot of the manual I have been following which was sent to me by the installer!
I'm afraid that like most of the user manuals it is not very clear what is actually meant by many of the descriptions. If you could carry out the test that I suggested it may become clear what the zone settings need to be, whether that is both On, one On and one Off, or both Off.
When you first moved in I do believe that your system was set for a fixed water flow temperature of 55C, which is far from ideal.
Zone valve actuators- valves closed up and downstairs
downstairs kitchen turned up to 25 on stat- heating came on, valve opened labelled ‘UF down’
no change to the above controller display
Kitchen stat turned back down and heating went off
upstairs bedroom turned up to 25 on stat- heating came on, valve opened labelled ‘UF up’
no change to the above controller display.
hope this makes sense!
I have been monitoring the DHW temp since I turned the green pump down to 1. Unfortunately it doesn’t seem to have made any difference and the tank still dropped over night but 9 degrees (without use), and continues to need re-heating 3-4 times per 24 hours (set to re-heat after a temp drop of 10 degrees).
Zone valve actuators- valves closed up and downstairs
downstairs kitchen turned up to 25 on stat- heating came on, valve opened labelled ‘UF down’
no change to the above controller display
Kitchen stat turned back down and heating went off
upstairs bedroom turned up to 25 on stat- heating came on, valve opened labelled ‘UF up’
no change to the above controller display.
hope this makes sense!
I have been monitoring the DHW temp since I turned the green pump down to 1. Unfortunately it doesn’t seem to have made any difference and the tank still dropped over night but 9 degrees (without use), and continues to need re-heating 3-4 times per 24 hours (set to re-heat after a temp drop of 10 degrees).
Thank again for your help,
Katie
Even with water pump speed turned down, I suspect that you will continue to lose heat energy from the hot water cylinder until you stop the pump from running.
The tests confirm that both of the zones valves appear to be functioning correctly.
The next step is to check the UFH systems, one of which appears to be located to the right of your hot water cylinder. I would expect each UFH system to have a water pump and mixing valve, but a closeup photo would be useful to confirm.
Once located carry out the above test with the thermostats, and check to see if the relevant UFH water pump starts and stops at each UFH system, and also that warm water is flowing through the orange coloured pipework.
@derek-m thank you- I will do this test tomorrow and feedback. I think there is a similar set up upstairs in our wardrobe but will need to clear it out to check!!
In the meantime I have attached a photo of the downstairs system. I assume the pump is the grey and black thing which is vibrating slightly?! some of the stats control the wrong rooms- someone is supposed to be coming to sort next week… I assume this won’t effect the test?
I’ve just been reading things over. I can’t comment on the HP side but your HW issues sounds exactly the same issue as I’m having. 300L tank set to 60c. I have a 40Kw boiler that needs to come on for 3 hours a day I order to give us just enough hot water for 2x showers and 1 bath. I’m using roughly 2-3.5 gas units a day (not KWH) to just heat hot water at a flow temp of 62c. I do have HW return system but my house is super insulated throughout and there’s very little heat loss as a result in the pipe work. Even without the HW return pump being on the issue still occurs.
I’ve had loads of plumbers come and find out what the issue could be. So far all have no idea. what I have noticed my Grohe taps and Gerbrit WC frames have a hiss when the taps are in any position other than extremes positions - ie 100% hot or cold. The WC frame cold feed would hiss/vibrate until I moved the tap to an extreme position. However this is intermittently happening. I have a video of the sound if you would like to hear it.
After speaking with Grohe they said you must have an unbalanced system on the hot/cold. However all the plumbers said impossible, we’re mains fed and have a balancing valve. Jumping forward, I got a 8th plumber down that looked at the multiport valve and said it’s not actually a fully balanced on all supplies in the house so it’s possible, during certain times there would pressure differential causing issues. The pipework changes is due to be resolved next weekend so hopefully this fixes my issues.
Cutting forward, this plumber believes my hot water is mixing to the cold through the taps causing a huge heat loss. However what he can’t explain is where this extra water is going, as there isn’t any leaks.
So I’m wondering do you have a similar issue to me somewhere in your system. In theory it doesn’t matter what your heat source is.
@h2009 sounds similar for sure- and equally costing a small fortune. I’m hoping to get the pump disconnected this week to see if that helps. Keep me posted on your plumber visit!
@derek-m yes- the pumps switch on and off. I felt each pipe getting warm, I think they all felt a similar temperature… We do find that downstairs heats up much quicker than upstairs though! Upstairs rarely hits the temp on the stats- only set to 18…
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