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To ASHP, or not to ASHP, that is the question!!!!!!

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 RV3
(@rv3)
Estimable Member Member
58 kWhs
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 40
Topic starter  

Hi all

 

Firstly - a massive thank you to My Home Farm for all of the content. No easy thing to try and find accessible independent advice on ASHP’s - your videos, articles and associated threads and contributors have helped me massively. You’ve identified a real gap in terms of trying to understand this stuff - well done you guys.

 

Secondly, I thought I’d contribute. Partly it’ll help me organise my thoughts to make the decision which has driven me a bit mad, partly because others might add correct our thinking (hoping Derek and others might see this and comment if we’re missing things). Hopefully it’ll help others who are also doing the not easy task of weighing up whether to go for it, in the same way their threads have helped us.

 

Our situation:

4 bedroom detached bungalow, rural, North of England 

Part conversion of old buildings which are over 100 yrs old- part new build about 12 years old

LPG is our current fuel

Solar thermal on roof - not working - we’ll get this fixed up if viable

Thermal store in loft linked to LPG boiler, solar thermal, wood burning stove

Insulation: We had a guy come out to take a look. He said it’s ok, in terms of roof space stuff he could see good in some places, patchy in others, it wouldn’t meet todays building regs. Advised probably not worth upgrading in terms of cost / benefit to what is already there. We’re not suitable for cavity wall insulation. He put a camera in and it showed foil backing arrangement so it looks like something is there. Floor unknown but see below - we’ve got UFH when conversion done 12yrs ago so would assume they put insulation into floor

Underfloor heating throughout - works fine we keep the main area of the house and bedrooms at about 17*C so we’re used to that to try and keep LPG use viable.

EPC: 

Energy Performance rating: E

Property is 224 square metres

The primary energy use for this property per year is 197 kilowatt hours per square metre (kWh/m2).

Estimated yearly energy cost for this property £2942

Estimated space heating 31943kwh

Estimated water heating 3015kwh

Quotes obtained from two local companies - both on MSC installer list, both on NIBE approved installer list

 

  1. £16,150 plus VAT. Mitsubishi Ecodan 14w ASHP. 300 litre tank plus 25 litre buffer tank. Service of solar thermal. Installation costs etc. Heat source performance estimate provided as part of quote
  2. £13,785 plus VAT. Nibe 16w ASHP. 300 litre Nibe tank. Installation etc. No performance estimate provided - told that would do this work on commencement.

Additional considerations:

If use mitsubishi SCOP figures - heating is 3.79 and hot water is 1.75

That means that if use the EPC figures we’d need about 10,000kwh for heating and water

We already use about 9,000kwh per year for other stuff - so already got quite high use (theres a separate cabin that parents in law use that uses elec on our grounds - not part of ASHP considerations)

That means we think we’ll need elec usage of about 20000kwk per year

We’re advised that to avoid RHI complications the wood burner would need to be taken out of the system. As our wood burner has a boiler we’d need to buy a new one that wasn’t fitted with a boiler. 

 

Concerns

The feedback from Lars and others seems to be that as soon as you hit sub 4*C temperature the pump is working hard - expense goes up. A lot of nights for us from November onwards are under 4*C and many are at 0*C. For example it’s April now and every night this week has been 0*C or below - down to -4*C on two nights. Like most UFH ours just sits at the same temp so in summary our pump will be working in those cold conditions for a fair bit of winter so potential electricity usage could be high

Latest electricity deal is 15p per kwh. Last one was 13p. That means in last eighteen months or so it’s gone up a couple of pence. If our calculations about usage above are right every time it goes up a penny that’s another £250 onto the bill.

If all of the calcs above are right - then we calculate that on the 15p deal it’s about £600 per year cheaper to run the ASHP than it is to run current LPG system based on LPG costs per year. However, if it’s more kwh than our not much more than ‘back of a beer matt’ calculations, and elec goes up a penny or two - it seems like it could easily get more expensive than LPG to run?

Both companies seem to think we won’t need to upgrade our electricity supply for the 20,000kwh per year needs. I rang northern powergrid and tried to sound them out. Bit of a confusing conversation but the upshot of that plus info on their website seemed to be that we might need to - and that this could potentially costs thousands - as we’re rural. But they can’t tell you until they do a proper survey what the cost would be. Not sure about this though - I’ve not seen anyone on the threads saying that they have had to do this. But I’m unsettled that the installers seem ready to take a deposit and order the equipment without having this clarified. I saw a really useful presentation by Carbon Legacy as part of Cumbria Sustainability webinar and they said checking with DNO is important.Others have said the same but it doesn’t appear to be part of the plan of either installer

The webinars that seem like the ones to trust (see above and the Mesh one) say heat loss calcs are vital. Not quite sure what this involves. Both installers came out to site to price the job. Neither seemed to take measurements of individual rooms etc. I queried this with one and they said that heat loss calcs have been done to produce the mitsubishi performance data. Is this how heat loss calcs are done? The stuff I’ve read seemed to suggest there’s a bit more to it - or can it all be done of a visual and the EPC?

There’s some happy ASHP’ers out there - but there’s a lot of unhappy ones too. And the Home Farm episode 6 detailing issues faced when it gets cold is pretty sobering in terms of inconvenience, running costs, and the ‘we’re still guinea pigs the technology is not quite there yet’ sentiment. Happy to spend time understanding the system and tinkering until we optimise - but twitchy about issues like that after such a big investment.

 

Conclusion

We want to go renewable - we really do

But it’s a potential outlay of circa £17k. Plus £2k if we want a woodburner replacement. Plus several thousand if we find out that we need to upgrade from single supply to three phase. We’d get about £10k back off the RHI - so it’s still a big net investment of at least £10k for us

We’re in a detached bungalow with ok insulation - but type of property probably similar in some ways to Home Farm - it’s a retro fit, insulation not optimum, but I suspect average temperatures are lower here so it feels like it wouldn’t take much for the running costs to get higher than LPG - especially due to the amount of sub 4*C time we get in winter etc

Our current system needs investment one way or the other although the UFH is fine the domestic hot water situation is not working. We could probably spend under £5000 to get new kit powered by LPG. But it feels like a backward step. However it’s half the net investment of an ASHP, and touch wood wouldn’t have all of the potential variables and worries that seem to go with ASHP retrofit installation into a building like ours.

Just feel that we might not have had careful enough heat loss calcs which would allow a proper informed decision about sizing and viability

 

 

So, it seems like the size of investment needed / risk of problems / uncertainty re running costs / possibility of upgrade of elec supply being needed / expense of having to put a new woodburner in all mean that ASHP might not be the best option, which we’re disappointed about - but trying to be super rational and not get sucked in just because it’s renewable. 

 

Overall ASHP seems like just too many variables and uncertainties for such a big investment? 

 

We’re having another chat with one of the companies that quoted for us on Friday, but if anyone can sense check the above and has anything to add - very grateful. Partly writing all of this to clarify what we want to ask them.

 

Thanks again - good luck to anyone going ahead with it.


   
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(@derek-m)
Illustrious Member Moderator
13601 kWhs
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Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 4153
 

Hi RV3,

It is always difficult to provide advice about heating systems, because there are so many variables that need to be considered.

From the information supplied, I would estimate that you should not need to upgrade your electricity supply from single phase to three phase, unless there is a phase balancing issue in your area. When you say that you are rural, exactly how rural?

For me, your starting point would be to try to improve your insulation.  Reducing your heat demand has a knock on effect for everything else, including costs.

What solar thermal do you have and why is it not working? This is a good source of free energy and should be utilised if at all possible.

Now that I have repaired my old gas boiler and recently installed an Air to Air ASHP, so that she who must be obeyed is now warm and happy, I can continue with some ideas I have been working on for improving efficiencies. So watch this space as they say.

As you have no doubt read, ASHP's suffer from lower efficiency at exactly the time when higher efficiency would be much appreciated. This is a particular problem during the 3 Winter months. From Spring through to Autumn you should be trying to get most of your hot water from your solar thermal and hence you would be able to run a ASHP at lower water flow temperatures which gives much better efficiency.

Have you consider solar PV? Solar PV can be used to help power a ASHP during the day and if there is an excess of power available could also be used to produce hot water.

Let me give you an example of what can be achieved.

Since repairing our gas boiler, it now provides our heating overnight at 21C. At about 9:30 this morning, when I arose, there was sufficient output from our solar PV panels for me to start our ASHP. As the ASHP heated up to the 23C setpoint it pulled back the controller and shutdown the gas boiler. There was sufficient output from the solar PV to also heat the water in our hot water tank up to 65C.

For 8 hours during the day we imported only a very small amount of electricity and gas from the grid. As the Sun was going down and the output from the solar PV was insufficient to power the ASHP, I switched off the ASHP and allowed the gas boiler to take over heating duties. In this way we used the maximum amount of the free energy from the Sun and hence reduced the amount of electricity and gas that we imported.

Obviously this arrangement works well for us, but may not be suitable for everyone.

Another thing that you may wish to consider is your electricity supplier. I know that some of the members have switched to the Octopus Agile tariff which provides lower prices for much of the day, but is quite expensive between 4pm and 7pm.

I hope that this is of use, but please feel free to ask any further questions.

Regards,

Derek.


   
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 RV3
(@rv3)
Estimable Member Member
58 kWhs
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 40
Topic starter  

Thanks Derek - appreciate the thoughts and v useful.

 

We live in a hamlet - couple of houses nearby - then some more about 500metres away etc.

 

Definitely going to try and get the solar thermal sorted out. The pressure has dropped right down so going to get it serviced and then see where we are.

Not sure how to improve insulation. The one company I've been able to get out said not worth doing much more. because we have stone walls have been advised cannot get cavity wall insulation.

Your set up sounds great, not sure I'd have the skills / confidence to start thinking about a twin set up like that though. Going to also start looking into solar PV as well.

Thanks again much appreciated.

 

 


   
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Mars
 Mars
(@editor)
Illustrious Member Admin
16614 kWhs
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Posts: 2298
 

Welcome to the forums @rv3 and thanks for the kind words.

As Derek says there are a lot of moving parts when it comes to ASHPs and what works for one house will not work for another. I've read through your detailed post and will comment later this evening, and we've made some huge strides with our ASHP heating this week - these insights may help.

It's going to be a long day outdoors today taking advantage of the splendid weather. 

Buy Bodge Buster – Homeowner Air Source Heat Pump Installation Guide: https://amzn.to/3NVndlU

Follow our sustainability journey at My Home Farm: https://myhomefarm.co.uk


   
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(@batalto)
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3655 kWhs
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 1091
 

Your w/m2 losses is shocking. As a comparison our renovated house has a loss of 34 w/m2 and our house is actually bigger at 261m2

I would advise you really do look at insulation first, before you do anything else. If you are going to spend £17k on anything, wrapping the house (and loft) in solid wall insulation is 100% going to be better than anything else. 

According to your house size I'm going to assume its a square, so you need 60m of insulation and at 2.5m high so 150m2 of insulation board - it would cost £3,700 for this 70mm outside insulation board (35 packs). Plus you would need some kind of cladding so lets say £8,000 all in. You will dramatically reduce your heat needs this way and reduce your losses. Then an ASHP would make sense. If you get one before you reduce your losses you are, pardon the phrase, pissing in the wind.

Our bill for the ASHP and all our power should come to around £800 @ 11p/kw - almost 25% of your cost. The insulation would recoup itself in a couple of years based on your bills.

12kW Midea ASHP - 8.4kw solar - 29kWh batteries
262m2 house in Hampshire
Current weather compensation: 47@-2 and 31@17
My current performance can be found - HERE
Heat pump calculator spreadsheet - HERE


   
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(@derek-m)
Illustrious Member Moderator
13601 kWhs
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Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 4153
 

Hi RV3,

As Batalto says, start with improving your insulation.

Look on the forum for posts by NeilSondhi which details external wall insulation.

I assume that you have solid stone walls so do not have a cavity.

Regards,

Derek.


   
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 RV3
(@rv3)
Estimable Member Member
58 kWhs
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 40
Topic starter  

Thanks @batalto and @derek-m.

Will need to do some homework on what w/m2 is but I get the drift. 

Totally take your points re insulation. I picked up that insulation is key - right at the start of this  did get a firm out who were meant to be one of the best in the region - he basically seemed to think there were no easy improvements (really difficult to get firms out to have a look and reliably quote?) . Lofts already done though not brilliantly. Solid stone walls so no cavity options. I'll look again at the external stuff, I'd initially thought this would mean a big alteration in external appearance but need to do some homework on that.

I think then we thought ok well if insulation is not something we can easily improve - and renewable could run at a price that wasn't more expensive than LPG - it would still be a positive step rather than getting new LPG based system. But when you then start getting the full picture re ASHP it's a more complicated picture.

Like I say - will go back to trying to think the insulation thing through. Maybe just need to try and get someone else to come out. Everyone is very clear that the insulation question is totally fundamental. Just not sure we have many options.

 

Really great to get feedback and help us focus on stuff though - much appreciated.


   
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(@batalto)
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Posts: 1091
 

@rv3 Its just your heat loss per m2 of the outside of the building e.g. what is the replacement number. You can then multiply this by the size of your house and you get the total heat loss of the building.

Its just a number you need to size the heating system. The lower the number the less heat you will need to warm up your house. As an FYI, if you are still renovating, have you considered insulated plasterboard?

12kW Midea ASHP - 8.4kw solar - 29kWh batteries
262m2 house in Hampshire
Current weather compensation: 47@-2 and 31@17
My current performance can be found - HERE
Heat pump calculator spreadsheet - HERE


   
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(@derek-m)
Illustrious Member Moderator
13601 kWhs
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Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 4153
 

Hi RV3,

If you do not wish to change the outside appearance there is also interior wall insulation that may be an option.

Regards,

Derek.


   
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(@batalto)
Famed Member Member
3655 kWhs
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 1091
 

@RV3 I have a heat loss tool you can use to work it out yourself. Its fairly straightforward, but needs a little background knowledge about walls/roof etc. As an FYI if you know your current use and efficiency you could probably work out your heat need - you literally have the heat use figures at your fingertips

 

12kW Midea ASHP - 8.4kw solar - 29kWh batteries
262m2 house in Hampshire
Current weather compensation: 47@-2 and 31@17
My current performance can be found - HERE
Heat pump calculator spreadsheet - HERE


   
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 RV3
(@rv3)
Estimable Member Member
58 kWhs
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 40
Topic starter  

Thanks @batalto

I probably don't have the background knowledge though. We have old parts of the house that have high ceilings and exposed beams, hard to know what's gone in there it's not accessible. We've got newer parts where you can see insulation wool but it's only about 150mm. Then we've got other parts which are kingspan. The insulation guy who came out stuck a camera in the wall and it looks like we have foil lining in there - but hard to know how consistent this is in all areas. 

Time wise and expertise wise I probably just need to try and find someone else who'll come out and maybe do a proper heat loss calc for me - advise re what practical steps we can take re the insulation. I got the last guy out though and I think they have that much work on that this kind of bitty job - they either quote you out or sort of pass you on.

 

@derek the @neilsondhi thread re insulation was interesting. I tried to get a firm out for the bead insulation but three wouldn't come out as we were a stone property - one asked for pictures - really helpful guy but said not suitable as well. I'll keep looking at options.


   
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(@kev-m)
Famed Member Moderator
5550 kWhs
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 1299
 

Hi @RV3, welcome and here are a few of observations/comments from my recent installation and research.

  • Our DNO just required a simple form, with some basic details of existing use and some information on the ASHP power supply requirements that your installers can provide.  They got back within a few days with an answer.
  • We had a wood burner that was attached to the old HW cylinder.  The installers just disconnected and drained it.  It  works fine like this. 
  • Our 3 suppliers all gave an initial quote from our EPC.  Two did it remotely; one (the one we went with) visited.  The quotes were all subject to a full survey, when they do a room by room heat loss model of your house.  This could change the quote; mine changed because I needed 2 more radiators than were quoted for but the ASHP spec was the same.  
  • Your Ecodan quote - mine was almost the same number but was for the ASHP, 250l cylinder, 11 radiators, pipework and all installation. It's also worth saying that my EPC number for space heating is c. 21000 so a 14kW Ecodan is going to be working harder in your house than mine. My house is 165 m2. 
  • You won't achieve the quoted SCOP figure.  As far as I can see 2.5-3 is a more realistic aim, maybe a little more. 
  • People have commented on insulation; what's your house like for draught proofing? - that make a big difference too.   

Good luck.  You'll probably get the maximum RHI so that takes the edge off the large upfront cost a bit.  And of course in your case it'd be one more fossil fuel burner removed. 😉 

This post was modified 3 years ago by Kev M

   
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