@transparent 

From memory I think that's the only upright or truss in the loft I will double check though 

@transparent 

Yes there are 3 upright truss in total the one the buffer is screwed to is central

Posted by: @burtis

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Assuming I will have to then speak with these bodies and provide evidence of any issues or concerns. 

Then note that this Topic forms part of your evidence!

Please forward the URL to whichever 'bodies' you get to communicate with,
ideally highlight specific points made by correspondents here.

That's easy to achieve because each post has its own URL of course.
You don't have to copy everything into a separate document for them!

Post Trusses.

Great... so these trusses are very strong and transfer weight to the main load-bearing walls.

One possibility is to suspend a platform or cradle between two trusses.
Not only will that allow the weight of the buffer tank to be supported...
... but it removes all contact with ceiling joists 🙂

The strength of a platform to support the buffer tank is itself an issue.
As a guideline, it should easily be able to take the weight of two adults.

When I construct such platforms I tend to use phenolic-coated ply (also known as buffalo board) which you often find as the base for small trailers or load-bearing aluminium scaffold towers.
It's immensely strong and can be made waterproof if you seal cut edges.

And I then bolt aluminium angle along the edges.
Here's such a platform constructed at an angle of 35°, for use on my pitched roof.

Search online for "phenolic ply" and you'll find several vendors who offer different thicknesses and will cut-to-size what you require.

To fix to the timber trusses, I'd favour bolting into the Top Chord, which is also a rafter in your house.
That takes the load straight down to the wall-plates.

Remember that the copper pipes can also transfer sound.
But they could be clipped to timbers using anti-vibration mounts.
Once again, look online and you'll see all sorts of types.

@transparent thanks again for the information. 

I will definitely pass this on as a point of evidence towards the case. 

I think maybe I would be cheaper/ more beneficial to the installer and myself to remove the buffer thank and make it open loop maybe as a cheaper fix that may well help with efficiency also as long as the system volume is correct I guess. 

Another thing I have noticed is there seems to be 2 filters (well 3 of you includ the extra on on the radiator circuit)

Y filter I think on the cold side and another filter on the hot side these are both outside next to the isolation valves. 

I pretty sure in the Midea handbook only the Y filter is needed

Now we're in the realm of circulatory systems and buffer tanks, I need to pass the baton to those who better understand the principles.

Have a look at the article "Are Buffer Tanks Sabotaging Your Air Source Heat Pump?" written by @editor last month
and the topic Mitsubishi PUHZ-SW120 ASHP & Buffer Tank with some useful observations by @jamespa

We might need a sketch or photos of the position of those filters within the system, and why they are "outside" the isolation valves.

Posted by: @burtis

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@transparent thanks again for the information. 

I will definitely pass this on as a point of evidence towards the case. 

I think maybe I would be cheaper/ more beneficial to the installer and myself to remove the buffer thank and make it open loop maybe as a cheaper fix that may well help with efficiency also as long as the system volume is correct I guess. 

 

Very likely.

Why is the buffer there in the first place, what was the (purported) rationale to install it?

@jamespa 

Personally I don't know why to be honest. 

Have good 15mm copper and 22mm primary. 

One small section on plastic 15mm and connectors which I paid them to replace as part of the re pipe but they didn't. 

Other than that I can't see why it's there 

Posted by: @burtis

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@jamespa 

Personally I don't know why to be honest. 

Have good 15mm copper and 22mm primary. 

One small section on plastic 15mm and connectors which I paid them to replace as part of the re pipe but they didn't. 

Other than that I can't see why it's there 

Assuming that the installers/MCS etc are still engaged then you should ask and suggest that removing the buffer tank may indeed be the best way to deal with any structural/vibration issues it causes.  Unless there is a genuine reason for it to be in the system, its best removed for the reasons you suggest.

@jamespa 

Sadly they have sad they want no further correspondence until MCS or the other bodies send them a report 

Posted by: @burtis

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@jamespa 

Sadly they have sad they want no further correspondence until MCS or the other bodies send them a report 

Good luck!  As you have doubtless read here the reported success rate with complaints to MCS is extremely low indeed.  They are funded by the industry and appear to act accordingly.

Looking back to your first post the major issues (major in terms of potential work involved) appear all to be associated with the buffer.  This being the case deletion of the buffer (and, presumably secondary circulation pump) is very likely indeed to be the best solution and will also likely reduce your bills by 10-15%.  Unless you have a very large system or multiple heat sources or something else unusual its most unlikely it is actually needed, but of course without the 'explanation' from the installer or a complete analysis of the system we cant be absolutely certain.  The report from MCS etc might say something, but equally likely it wont.  If I were you I would be thinking about my course of action in the event that complaining does not yield any meaningful result which almost certainly should include either removing the buffer, or rigging up some bypass plumbing so it can be switched in and out, enabling you can test the effect before finally committing to removal.  This is presumably the 'top' of the system, so you would only need to drain a small amount of water to do the job.

Of course I hope that the industry does what it should do, but reports here suggest that is by no means certain.

@jamespa 

We shall see fingers crossed MCS do what's best. 

Thank you for your help buddy