@kev-m Thanks kev-m, but I'm still not sure if my setup is correct. What I really want to know is - do your house thermostats stop your HP (and it's pumps) when they all stop calling for heat? If so, then your thermostat/ Heatmiser signal cables are still connected to your FTC, which mine aren't. I could just reconnect mine, and see if AA is still operating, but it might be difficult to know if it is, or if it is just running dumbly to the RC target. How can you tell if AA is actually operating?
You have your thermostats up high, so your manifold pumps must be running all the time? I know they don't use much power but it's still a waste. I am trying to program my Salus RT500 thermostats (£19 in B&Q if available), so as not to be all on all the time, if I can do it so the AA is not affected.
Another question, I think you said previously that you can program a night setback into the mitsubishi wireless controller. I haven't got one yet or seen that stated anywhere, so do you just mean - turn it down a few degrees at night and back up in the morning?
Regards S
Sliderule: Just to be sure what are we talking about here:
- Mitsubishi wireless controller gives HP info about room(zone) temperature and it is used when HP is in AA mode.
- ordinary thermostat which is connected to FTC directly (don't know which input) is just saying ON / OFF - and HP can't be smart about it I believe
Posted by: @sliderule@kev-m Thanks kev-m, but I'm still not sure if my setup is correct. What I really want to know is - do your house thermostats stop your HP (and it's pumps) when they all stop calling for heat? If so, then your thermostat/ Heatmiser signal cables are still connected to your FTC, which mine aren't. I could just reconnect mine, and see if AA is still operating, but it might be difficult to know if it is, or if it is just running dumbly to the RC target. How can you tell if AA is actually operating?
You have your thermostats up high, so your manifold pumps must be running all the time? I know they don't use much power but it's still a waste. I am trying to program my Salus RT500 thermostats (£19 in B&Q if available), so as not to be all on all the time, if I can do it so the AA is not affected.
Another question, I think you said previously that you can program a night setback into the mitsubishi wireless controller. I haven't got one yet or seen that stated anywhere, so do you just mean - turn it down a few degrees at night and back up in the morning?
Regards S
My house thermostats are still connected to the FTC but turned up high and the external pumps definitely don't run all the time.
If you want to know whether AA is working, turn up the set room temp when the radiators are already warm/hot. If AA is working the rads will get noticeably hotter as it attempts to warm the house, if not they won't.
The setback is programmed into the FTC rather than the wireless controller. You can programme in a setback or switch it off and on. The wireless controller just communicates the room temp to the FTC. You can override the set programme by changing the temp on either the wireless controller or the wired one. Sorry if I'm stating the obvious but you can programme in the setback without having the wireless controller.
Good morning Kev. I've searched the forum but haven't found the necessary info. Could you please be kind enough to point me to instructions on how to programme a setback on the FTC? I fancy giving it a go to see if I can save some energy/money overnight. At the moment I'm running my Ecodan 11.2 24/7 on auto adaptation and would like to try a setback of a couple of degrees overnight from say 10 pm to 4 am.
Retrofitted 11.2kw Mitsubishi Ecodan to new radiators commissioned November 2021.
14 x 500w Monocrystalline solar panels.
2 ESS Smile G3 10.1 batteries.
ESS Smile G3 5kw inverter.
Thanks kev-m, this forum really helps to get my head around these issues, and the penny has finally dropped. On installing the replacement HP, a house wiring issue emerged which meant the living room thermostat had to be disconnected from the FTC or rewired. From another forum I thought that with AA, thermostats were not connected to the FTC, so I wouldn't have to rewire, but from what you say, they normally are. I ran on WC for 35 days with some inconvenience, and got an overall reported COP of 4. I have run for 4 days so far temporarily on AA, and the COP is also 4. I will carry on running AA for a while, with the thermostats disconnected and see how it goes. AA has the advantage of being able to adjust the temperature from my phone, and seems to reduce cycling without noticeably increasing power consumption.
What I meant by "how do we know if AA is actually operating" was in comparison to non intelligent Room Thermostat control. I know that there is a dipswitch to set it on or off, but in my situation of unconnected thermostats, I wondered if it was really working as it should. I will just have to see how it goes.
Yes I was using "setbacks" by programming the FTC timer to off for some hours at night. With AA, I turn down the FTC temperature 2 degrees until morning and then turn it up again.
I am happy using my Salus RT500 programmable thermostats to switch on and off rooms which don't need heat all the time, such as Bedrooms, Bathrooms and hallways, and for setback in the living room. These thermostats are not very sensitive, which is a good thing with our all-UHF house as they aren't continually switching on and off. They are also cheap if you can get them now.
Regards S
Posted by: @morganGood morning Kev. I've searched the forum but haven't found the necessary info. Could you please be kind enough to point me to instructions on how to programme a setback on the FTC? I fancy giving it a go to see if I can save some energy/money overnight. At the moment I'm running my Ecodan 11.2 24/7 on auto adaptation and would like to try a setback of a couple of degrees overnight from say 10 pm to 4 am.
Morgan, try this Mitsubishi video.
It shows how to set a On off schedule and vary temperatures along the time line. Just remember that Auto adapt tends to over heat by 1 degree C so try setting temp at 19 to see what temperature the room stat rises to. Also set the night time set back to 17c. We have found that a rise in small steps of 1c at a time has worked best for us, in preventing fast heat rises which would otherwise use more energy. Once you’re familiar with how your house responds you could try lowering your night time set back temperature a little further.
Kev might have views on what works for him.
Thank you. I only want to vary the overnight temp by a couple of degrees lower rather than having the system off.
I was using the wrong words for searching. 🙄
Retrofitted 11.2kw Mitsubishi Ecodan to new radiators commissioned November 2021.
14 x 500w Monocrystalline solar panels.
2 ESS Smile G3 10.1 batteries.
ESS Smile G3 5kw inverter.
But it is a shame that you can't set temp to 0.5°C (as with wireless remote or via melcloud).
Posted by: @sunandairPosted by: @morganGood morning Kev. I've searched the forum but haven't found the necessary info. Could you please be kind enough to point me to instructions on how to programme a setback on the FTC? I fancy giving it a go to see if I can save some energy/money overnight. At the moment I'm running my Ecodan 11.2 24/7 on auto adaptation and would like to try a setback of a couple of degrees overnight from say 10 pm to 4 am.
Morgan, try this Mitsubishi video.
It shows how to set a On off schedule and vary temperatures along the time line. Just remember that Auto adapt tends to over heat by 1 degree C so try setting temp at 19 to see what temperature the room stat rises to. Also set the night time set back to 17c. We have found that a rise in small steps of 1c at a time has worked best for us, in preventing fast heat rises which would otherwise use more energy. Once you’re familiar with how your house responds you could try lowering your night time set back temperature a little further.
Kev might have views on what works for him.
Yes that's the one. It's bit fiddly but worth persevering with. I agree about AA overheating but now Mrs M has got used to 22 deg I'm not going to get away with the 21 deg I meant to have!
I haven't tried stepping the morning temp rise (I will) but I agree about AA trying to heat the house up quickly. I set mine to 21 deg with a setback to 17 deg 10pm to 6am. I might have to decrease the setback time as it gets colder outside. In practice this is almost an onn/offf setting since the IAT rarely drops below 17 deg.
Posted by: @kev-mPosted by: @sunandairPosted by: @morganGood morning Kev. I've searched the forum but haven't found the necessary info. Could you please be kind enough to point me to instructions on how to programme a setback on the FTC? I fancy giving it a go to see if I can save some energy/money overnight. At the moment I'm running my Ecodan 11.2 24/7 on auto adaptation and would like to try a setback of a couple of degrees overnight from say 10 pm to 4 am.
Morgan, try this Mitsubishi video.
It shows how to set a On off schedule and vary temperatures along the time line. Just remember that Auto adapt tends to over heat by 1 degree C so try setting temp at 19 to see what temperature the room stat rises to. Also set the night time set back to 17c. We have found that a rise in small steps of 1c at a time has worked best for us, in preventing fast heat rises which would otherwise use more energy. Once you’re familiar with how your house responds you could try lowering your night time set back temperature a little further.
Kev might have views on what works for him.
Yes that's the one. It's bit fiddly but worth persevering with. I agree about AA overheating but now Mrs M has got used to 22 deg I'm not going to get away with the 21 deg I meant to have!
I haven't tried stepping the morning temp rise (I will) but I agree about AA trying to heat the house up quickly. I set mine to 21 deg with a setback to 17 deg 10pm to 6am. I might have to decrease the setback time as it gets colder outside. In practice this is almost an onn/offf setting since the IAT rarely drops below 17 deg.
AA mode is designed to keep the IAT constant, so to the controller even 1C setpoint change is a large deviation between desired and actual. This is the reason why the LWT will be ramped up in what is thought to be an aggressive manner. I believe that gradually increasing the setpoint over several hours may produce a more sedate response from the controller.
I don't know how you have it in your country (UK?) but in our country price of electricity is cheapest during the night. And also HP is meant for 24/7 as this enables operation at lowest flow temperatures. So I don't know how much is it possible to save if heating temp is decreased during night as this means that HP must run harder in the morning.
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