Thx. Probably the max-min should be set to current max-min of the weather curve.
Posted by: @damijandThx. Probably the max-min should be set to current max-min of the weather curve.
maybe but remember it will allow the temp to rise to more than the WC max by the amount in the temp diff - unless limited by the maximum allowed. So if your WC max is 45 and your temp diff +-5, it can go up to max 50, which you may not want.
Kev can you please tell me:
- what is the accuracy of wireless remote of the room temperature display (0.5 or 0.1 or 1°C)
- what batteries it uses and how long they last
- and if you know what is the maximum signal range
0.5C increments.
2 x AA batteries.
Mine have been in use for 4 years and there is no indication they are needing changed.
No idea! It seems to provide whole house coverage.
Posted by: @abernyte0.5C increments.
2 x AA batteries.
Mine have been in use for 4 years and there is no indication they are needing changed.
No idea! It seems to provide whole house coverage.
agree with the above.
How are people using the Mitsubishi wireless remote. I’ve only used it with Auto Adaptive / room temperature mode. As a target room temperature controller. But I’ve recently been using it as a room thermostat while operating in Weather Compensation mode.
in other words, to set the wireless remote with a higher than desired room temperature to let the WC mode operate the HP based on the WC Curve but only to intervene if there is other temperature gains like the oven switched on or solar gain through a window ETC.
Does anybody operate this controller in this way?
I ask because we appear to be getting quite long cycle times at 10c ambient with reasonably low flow temperatures (32 to 35c) which we are not getting in AA Mode.
But is it Room temperature info even used when in WC Curve mode? Because main controller won't even show it if is not in Adaptive mode...
Thx for info about Wireless. Currently I have main remote downstairs as a room sensor, and for upstairs (I have 2 zones) I would need another room sensor, but I am afraid that all pipes for cables are allready full and maybe wireless is the only way to go...
Posted by: @damijandBut is it Room temperature info even used when in WC Curve mode? Because main controller won't even show it if is not in Adaptive mode...
you may find it useful:
The wireless remote information is fully integrated in the data on the main controller. Also is available on the MELCloud app. But the question - is the room temperature even used when in WC CURVE? I guess is down to personal preference.
The room temp info allows:
instant adjustment of temperature in the room of your choice
permanent display of room temp and target temperature other information.
setback of WC heating at night
control of overheating due to Solar Gain while in WC MODE
saving energy by switching off above a set temperature if cooking or entertaining a large group.
publication of IAT vs OAT data etc
integrated IAT with FT6 data
So I guess it’s down to personal preference.
@sunandair I don't know if I understood you correctly what is down to personal preference? Are you talking about choosing between adaptive mode vs WC?
Technical question here is if WC mode is used does the heatpump even uses room temperature? I would say no, because by default the only room temp sensor is in the main controller and HP does not know where it is installed. But it is possible that it uses wireless controller/sensor in a different way...
What is IAT, OAT ?
What do you mean by "setback of WC heating at night" ?
Posted by: @damijand@sunandair I don't know if I understood you correctly what is down to personal preference? Are you talking about choosing between adaptive mode vs WC?
Technical question here is if WC mode is used does the heatpump even uses room temperature? I would say no, because by default the only room temp sensor is in the main controller and HP does not know where it is installed. But it is possible that it uses wireless controller/sensor in a different way...
What is IAT, OAT ?
What do you mean by "setback of WC heating at night" ?
Hi DamijanD
The comment I made relating to personal preference just means it’s your choice. If you want to see the room temperature in your living room and you can’t see it then, if you have a wireless remote control it will always show the room temperature. It will show the room temperature even when you are operating the main controller in WC mode.
Technical Questions
IAT means Internal Air Temperature
OAT you can probably guess means Outside Air Temperature
‘Setback’ is the word used for dropping the target temperature of the room for a reduced heat output during overnight period.
Hope this helps.
@kev-m Thanks kev-m for very useful information. I am currently trying out AAA with the little RC on a cable into the living room. Had to replace my 13 year old Ecodan due to refrigerant leaks and compressor failure (average 4 starts per running hour), so I am paranoid about cycling. So far I have found almost no cycling on AAA. Question, was I right to disconnect my Heatmiser signal input from IN1, and change SW2-1 to OFF? I assumed that on AAA there would be no input from the Heatmisers. However, when I need to stop the HP when the sun shines, I have to turn down the RC and the thermostat/Heatmiser as well if I want to stop the manifold pump running, instead of just the latter when on WC. Incidentally I found today that turning down the RC by only 1C, caused the HP to pause and restart twice, before I then turned it down 5C I think, as if it knows that our UHF is slow to warm up and tries to anticipate. Also, it wouldn't restart until I raised the RC target 1C above the flow and return temperature. Not a problem now that I know. You mentioned a time interval of 30 minutes, what does this do, and is 30 best for all concrete UHF? Looking forward to your advice.
Posted by: @sliderule@kev-m Thanks kev-m for very useful information. I am currently trying out AAA with the little RC on a cable into the living room. Had to replace my 13 year old Ecodan due to refrigerant leaks and compressor failure (average 4 starts per running hour), so I am paranoid about cycling. So far I have found almost no cycling on AAA. Question, was I right to disconnect my Heatmiser signal input from IN1, and change SW2-1 to OFF? I assumed that on AAA there would be no input from the Heatmisers. However, when I need to stop the HP when the sun shines, I have to turn down the RC and the thermostat/Heatmiser as well if I want to stop the manifold pump running, instead of just the latter when on WC. Incidentally I found today that turning down the RC by only 1C, caused the HP to pause and restart twice, before I then turned it down 5C I think, as if it knows that our UHF is slow to warm up and tries to anticipate. Also, it wouldn't restart until I raised the RC target 1C above the flow and return temperature. Not a problem now that I know. You mentioned a time interval of 30 minutes, what does this do, and is 30 best for all concrete UHF? Looking forward to your advice.
I left my thermostats connected but turned up high so they are always calling for heat. I use the wireless remote to run AA. It doesn't run any pumps when they don't need to and seems to run AA like it's supposed to I was going to try and do similar to you but I had it like this when I was running with WC only and I've just left it.
I'm not sure about the interval. I seen it stated that ufh should use the higher intervals because it reacts slower. I've also seen comments that AA doesn't work well with ufh but I don't know if this is true. I don't know how the logic works but I can believe it might respond to as drop in target OAT by stopping for a bit then giving it a burst to test the waters (literally) and see what happens.
Once the RC set point is reached the ASHP and the pumps will stop. If you then immediately bump up the setpoint, I think the system will start the pumps but only start the ASHP if/when the RWT drops to a certain level determined by the AA algorithm. This could take a few minutes but if you increase the setpoint to above the current LWT it will start straight away. I may be talking nonsense of course ...
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