Bathroom rad with no TRV does not appear to be working at all
Alan from North Yorks here, new (3 weeks) owner of Ecodan 11.2 and soon to be 8 kwh Solar PV system, have a questions for other experienced users if I may?
bungalow with 2 zones 10 rads with 8 having TRVs, second zone UFH, am waiting for installers to come back to fix a few 'cosmetic' issues and add glycol. Because weather been OK ish and having a 12Kwh log burner, not used the system yet in anger, but noticed one of the bathroom rads with no TRV does not appear to be working at all. I've turned the + - valve on it both directions but nothing. Any ideas why one in the loop wouldn't be working. thanks in advance
@cervelo I would ask them to replace the Glycol with a dump valve. Glycol will significantly increase your heating cost as it is like pumping syrup. The Dump valve will allow the water to drop out of the heat pump if it stops in cold weather, preventing it from freezing, exactly what the glycol does but without the reduction in performance.
You may have an air lock in the pipe, close off all other circuits and see if the pump will push it through.
Director at Heacol | Expert Heat Pump Consultant | Book a one-to-one consultation for pre- and post-installation advice, troubleshooting and system optimisation.
@cervelo I'm unsure whether you're talking about glycol in a primary loop between your ASHP and a cylinder or within the central heating circuit itself.
I do use glycol... but for a roof-mounted solar-thermal panel. At first I put in the 'recommended' 40% solution in water. But then realised that efficiency wasn't good. A quick look online showed me that the heat capacity of glycol is a lot less than water.
The lesson here is to assess the situation rather than just go by the manuals.
As I live in Devon, there's no way the outside temperature was ever going to fall so low that it warranted a 40% solution!
Save energy... recycle electrons!
@derek-m as said bleed out rad close all other rads at one end to force water through but if that's not done the trick take caps off the non working rad both ends and make sure both the valves are fully open.if you had a trv on it i would undo top to expose the pin under cap and gently pull/push to make sure the pin moves freely.
i had to replace the whole valve on a bedroom as pin was stuck and could not be moved.
Ahh thank you all for your replies, very interesting re Glycol. The installer did say it wasn't really needed as the Ecodan 'had built in protection' The installers are due back sometime soon to add the glycol, if indeed it will degrade performance I will ask about adding a dump valve or a lower volume or indeed no glycol at all id OK with them warranty wise etc. I'll check if that particular rad needs bleeding.
Cheers Alan
Just an update on this, installers insisted on adding glycol as they said it would void the warranty otherwise?
After glycol added the rads (which worked perfectly with just water) only heated up to approx 4" from base of rad all apart from first rad in loop which worked perfectly (the only difference is that that rad has 15mm pipes rather than 10mm everywhere else). Mitsubishi giving conflicting information on amount of glycol needed from 25% to 13% or -10º. Installer said after last visit give it a couple of days it will all mix together and work fine. after a week he's back again tomorrow to try and resolve... hopefully
Posted by: @cerveloJust an update on this, installers insisted on adding glycol as they said it would void the warranty otherwise?
After glycol added the rads (which worked perfectly with just water) only heated up to approx 4" from base of rad all apart from first rad in loop which worked perfectly (the only difference is that that rad has 15mm pipes rather than 10mm everywhere else). Mitsubishi giving conflicting information on amount of glycol needed from 25% to 13% or -10º. Installer said after last visit give it a couple of days it will all mix together and work fine. after a week he's back again tomorrow to try and resolve... hopefully
Hi Cervelo,
I am assuming that the radiators are warm at the top and cool at the bottom. Can you measure the temperature of the flow and return pipes? It could be that there is insufficient flow, insufficient heat energy coming from your heat pump, or that the flow is not being evenly distributed.
Try shutting the valve on the radiator that is working correctly and see what happens to the other radiators. Have the radiators been balanced?
Hi derek no, heat is at base only, cold at top. we did turn off working rad for a few days and it made no difference to the others. Inflow and outflow pipes are hot, not sure re balanced. Installer is back at lunchtime, I’ll report back with situation after that to hopefully help anyone in future that goes through same issues
If the radiators are warm at the bottom and cool at the top then it would indicate that they are only partially filled. Is yours a pressurised system, if so what is the pressure? When the radiators are bled, where does the supply of water come from?
- 26 Forums
- 2,158 Topics
- 47.4 K Posts
- 74 Online
- 5,736 Members
Join Us!
Podcast Picks
Latest Posts
-
RE: Midea ASHP – how to set weather compensation
Yes, one outside in a sheltered place (mine was in a co...
By cathodeRay , 24 minutes ago
-
Havenwise App Help & Forum Support – Get the Most from Your Heat Pump
We’re pleased to announce that Havenwise are now joinin...
By Mars , 34 minutes ago
-
RE: COP is not the only measure of efficiency
I am a little sceptical of this, not least because, in ...
By jamespetts , 2 hours ago
-
RE: Renewables & Heat Pumps in the News
To unpack this a little.... 1) how many of us in this...
By Lucia , 2 hours ago
-
RE: Heat Pump Servicing & Maintenance – Good Value or Rip-Off?
@ashp-bobba Well done for stepping in where most would ...
By JamesPa , 3 hours ago
-
RE: Who’s Caved and Switched the Heating On Already?
I have automated this decision. I have a heat pump with...
By jamespetts , 12 hours ago
-
RE: Vaillant aroTherm Plus 10kW thoughts?
@realevil the fans and fan speed / coil size (height, w...
By ASHP-BOBBA , 13 hours ago
-
RE: Mitsubishi Ecodan 11kw Defrosting Issue.
@morgan this can just be done by your sepecilist when t...
By ASHP-BOBBA , 13 hours ago
-
RE: Buffers, hot water and cooling
I agree it seems like a lot of work particularly as its...
By JamesPa , 14 hours ago
-
RE: Anyone still weathering it out with Agile?
@toodles I guess it all comes down to import averages. ...
By Tim441 , 18 hours ago
-
RE: 300 Liter Tank - Do I have to heat it all?
The size of DHW tank affects the anti-legionella cycle....
By Transparent , 19 hours ago
-
RE: Heat Pump SCOPs – The Truth Might Not Be What You Think
@scalextrix Name plate capacity
By HCas , 22 hours ago
-
RE: Solar Thermal DHW and ASHP
I was originally contemplating a solar thermal installa...
By jamespetts , 22 hours ago
-
RE: Solar Power Output – Let’s Compare Generation Figures
My system installed in July 2024 has produced 6.4mWh in...
By jamespetts , 23 hours ago
-
RE: A Customer's Lessons Learnt from a Heat Pump Installation in a Large House
@judith thanks for your suggestions. Starting from col...
By GrahamF , 2 days ago
-
RE: Inventor (Midea) Heat Pump short cycling advice
I switched to "fan coil mode" to be able to set water t...
By immunity , 2 days ago
-
RE: DESNZ doing a survey which asks the right questions!
Without a survey their only source of data is probably ...
By JamesPa , 2 days ago
-
RE: Can you help with our research: solar panels, EV chargers, home batteries, heat pumps?
Just done your survey!
By Judith , 3 days ago
-
RE: Failing heat pump system - seeking thoughts on a rebuild
@cleardene-ashp just thinking about your issues here. Y...
By Judith , 3 days ago