Bathroom rad with no TRV does not appear to be working at all
Alan from North Yorks here, new (3 weeks) owner of Ecodan 11.2 and soon to be 8 kwh Solar PV system, have a questions for other experienced users if I may?
bungalow with 2 zones 10 rads with 8 having TRVs, second zone UFH, am waiting for installers to come back to fix a few 'cosmetic' issues and add glycol. Because weather been OK ish and having a 12Kwh log burner, not used the system yet in anger, but noticed one of the bathroom rads with no TRV does not appear to be working at all. I've turned the + - valve on it both directions but nothing. Any ideas why one in the loop wouldn't be working. thanks in advance
@cervelo I would ask them to replace the Glycol with a dump valve. Glycol will significantly increase your heating cost as it is like pumping syrup. The Dump valve will allow the water to drop out of the heat pump if it stops in cold weather, preventing it from freezing, exactly what the glycol does but without the reduction in performance.
You may have an air lock in the pipe, close off all other circuits and see if the pump will push it through.
@cervelo I'm unsure whether you're talking about glycol in a primary loop between your ASHP and a cylinder or within the central heating circuit itself.
I do use glycol... but for a roof-mounted solar-thermal panel. At first I put in the 'recommended' 40% solution in water. But then realised that efficiency wasn't good. A quick look online showed me that the heat capacity of glycol is a lot less than water.
The lesson here is to assess the situation rather than just go by the manuals.
As I live in Devon, there's no way the outside temperature was ever going to fall so low that it warranted a 40% solution!
Save energy... recycle electrons!
@derek-m as said bleed out rad close all other rads at one end to force water through but if that's not done the trick take caps off the non working rad both ends and make sure both the valves are fully open.if you had a trv on it i would undo top to expose the pin under cap and gently pull/push to make sure the pin moves freely.
i had to replace the whole valve on a bedroom as pin was stuck and could not be moved.
Ahh thank you all for your replies, very interesting re Glycol. The installer did say it wasn't really needed as the Ecodan 'had built in protection' The installers are due back sometime soon to add the glycol, if indeed it will degrade performance I will ask about adding a dump valve or a lower volume or indeed no glycol at all id OK with them warranty wise etc. I'll check if that particular rad needs bleeding.
Cheers Alan
Just an update on this, installers insisted on adding glycol as they said it would void the warranty otherwise?
After glycol added the rads (which worked perfectly with just water) only heated up to approx 4" from base of rad all apart from first rad in loop which worked perfectly (the only difference is that that rad has 15mm pipes rather than 10mm everywhere else). Mitsubishi giving conflicting information on amount of glycol needed from 25% to 13% or -10º. Installer said after last visit give it a couple of days it will all mix together and work fine. after a week he's back again tomorrow to try and resolve... hopefully
Posted by: @cerveloJust an update on this, installers insisted on adding glycol as they said it would void the warranty otherwise?
After glycol added the rads (which worked perfectly with just water) only heated up to approx 4" from base of rad all apart from first rad in loop which worked perfectly (the only difference is that that rad has 15mm pipes rather than 10mm everywhere else). Mitsubishi giving conflicting information on amount of glycol needed from 25% to 13% or -10º. Installer said after last visit give it a couple of days it will all mix together and work fine. after a week he's back again tomorrow to try and resolve... hopefully
Hi Cervelo,
I am assuming that the radiators are warm at the top and cool at the bottom. Can you measure the temperature of the flow and return pipes? It could be that there is insufficient flow, insufficient heat energy coming from your heat pump, or that the flow is not being evenly distributed.
Try shutting the valve on the radiator that is working correctly and see what happens to the other radiators. Have the radiators been balanced?
Hi derek no, heat is at base only, cold at top. we did turn off working rad for a few days and it made no difference to the others. Inflow and outflow pipes are hot, not sure re balanced. Installer is back at lunchtime, I’ll report back with situation after that to hopefully help anyone in future that goes through same issues
If the radiators are warm at the bottom and cool at the top then it would indicate that they are only partially filled. Is yours a pressurised system, if so what is the pressure? When the radiators are bled, where does the supply of water come from?
- 26 Forums
- 2,396 Topics
- 54.3 K Posts
- 221 Online
- 6,077 Members
Join Us!
Worth Watching
Latest Posts
-
RE: Setback savings - fact or fiction?
No need to create a new thread, @sheriff-fatman. You do...
By Majordennisbloodnok , 7 hours ago
-
RE: Power outages and storms: A surprisingly good DNO experience
Well done to Scottish Power for doing a good job. Well ...
By Majordennisbloodnok , 8 hours ago
-
RE: Advice for a novice on Mitsubishi Ecodan 6kW
Fair point. The highest frequency of defrosts I'd seen...
By Sheriff Fatman , 8 hours ago
-
RE: Heatpunk Floor plan issues
It's usually the complete opposite... seldom that Safar...
By Mars , 9 hours ago
-
RE: RDSAP10 effect on existing heat pump EPC rating?
@mike-patrick interesting update - thanks.I've been thr...
By Tim441 , 10 hours ago
-
RE: Recommended home battery inverters + regulatory matters - help requested
I remember reading in some inverters. They mandate a se...
By Batpred , 10 hours ago
-
RE: Fan is clipping ice build up from the front of unit.
@majordennisbloodnok I’ll not go there thanks! Toodles.
By Toodles , 12 hours ago
-
RE: Running from backup generaor in powercut?
@majordennisbloodnok Back in the 80’ or 90’ we had a te...
By Toodles , 12 hours ago
-
RE: Running my new Nibe ASHP efficiently
I'm new to the forum. Did you get a reply to this last ...
By Mike @ Camelot , 13 hours ago
-
RE: ASHP Energy Consumption: Aira 12kW heat pump
@grantmethestrength MCS requirements for DHW capacity h...
By Toodles , 14 hours ago
-
RE: New Mitsubishi Ecodan 11.2kW installation - L9 errors and maybe more
Great to hear! I just figured this out a day or tw...
By anotherdaveuk , 15 hours ago
-
RE: Help me keep the faith with my air source heat pump installation
@adamk I'm observing my own system at low temperatures ...
By dr_dongle , 20 hours ago
-
RE: Free Ecoheat Heat Pump Install
@deltona Yes older houses are problematic like that, bu...
By bontwoody , 2 days ago
-
RE: Radiator sizing sanity check
As I mentioned early on the cost of supplying and fitti...
By JamesPa , 2 days ago
-
RE: Electricity price predictions
Great point, one of the key ones in my chat with Octopu...
By Batpred , 2 days ago
-
RE: New Fogstar 15.5kWh upright solution
Let me point out that there are many Chinese suppliers ...
By Transparent , 2 days ago
-
RE: Weather compensation- why you should use it
@majordennisbloodnok — The Two Ronnies Mastermind sketc...
By cathodeRay , 2 days ago
-
Just realised that this image of the cylinder cupboard ...
By Sheriff Fatman , 3 days ago
-
RE: Rodents! A word of warning for heat pump owners
Two thoughts: 1: Let's ask @david-s if Primary Pro in...
By Transparent , 3 days ago
-
RE: Solis S6-EH1P8K-L-PLUS – Why I Chose It and What I’ve Learned So Far
In the diagram below, I describe my understanding of th...
By Batpred , 3 days ago


