@broadsman : I'd suggest most of us here are looking for finer grained control with no reliance on the cloud, Samsung do provide a wifi module, : https://www.wickes.co.uk/Samsung-MIM-H04EN-EHS-Advanced-Wifi-Receiver-2-0/p/293850  

@morh does that samsung device connect to the HP or the control panel at the water tank? is it an easy DIY?

@steven 

Hi Steven, I use your ESP Home code its very convenient, 

I would like to use Zone 2 but cant activate it in adress 7000 

Could you pleas point me to the right direction

Thank you 

@morh is your source:

github://daaaaan/esphome_samsung_ac@dans

Still the best code to be using? Should I use @main? I’m currently running the brazoayeye example.yaml as the basis for my EPS_Home instance, but I’d like to expose the sensors and controls that you are using.  

Fantastic work to get this module working, thank you. So much better than the SmartThings WiFi module, mine will be going on EBay shortly…

Just to give a quick update if anyone else is out there… I’ve now had the ESPhome module up and running for two weeks connected to the MIM-E03.  It has been working flawlessly, so much more available than the Samsung SmartTings WiFi interface.  I’ve simply used the Yaml prove idea by @morh as it opens up more entities than the original posters code. 

I now want to start changing the flow temperatures with HA automations based on Octopus Agile current price and external temperatures.  This will replace my current [Agile expensive => change UFH to standby] as this is a bit on/ff.

@sambag this problem is similar to a control issue I had at the beginning of the year. Due to no suitable wiring route at the time (2023), my installer fitted (unfortunately to the metal lid of the control box) the Samsung user interface in my external boiler room and controlled the system using a third party thermostat (Honeywell Home).

When the system is configured like this you can only use the Daily schedules because third party thermostats can only call for heat using a 240V AC signal applied to the controller, which you cannot talk to the samsung unit intelligently using this interface.

At the start of January I finally found a suitable wiring route, ordered the appropriate length of shielded twin core cable and relocated the samsung interface into a suitable location in the house.

Once electrically connected up all I had to do is reconfigure the controller to be a thermostat by changing the following:

#2091 = not use

#2092 = not use

#2093 = Room Temp Only on / off

Then you need to come out of the field settings menu and enter the "Indoor Zone Option" menu and set the "Standard Temperature" option from "Water Outlet" to "Indoor". You can of coarse leave this option as Water Outlet but I think it will be making life hard for yourself trying to set the appropriate flow temperatures when the heat pump will do it for you.

When you come out of the menu into the main CH screen your symbol in the bottom right should now show "Indoor" instead of "Water Law / Auto".

Now you should be able to set the room target temperature and allow the heat pump to calculate the required flow temperature needed to achieve this, which I find much less hassle. In addition you will also find the "Weekly" and "Yearly" schedule options become active and you will be able to set the room temp targets for different times of the day.

The Samsung controller uses RS485 (I think) to enable more intelligent control of flow temperatures etc along with the usual configuration options.

I looked into this configuration because of Graham Hendra's video and my system is now performing very well without the guess work of water laws plus you will be able to add your samsung internet module to control the system remotely.

@technogeek Just a clarification please.  If I change from WL to Indoor Zone setting via the controller, then it becomes a room temperature sensor and will maintain the set temperature where the controller is.   However if I leave it on the WL setting, but change from Auto to Heat, then it controls the Outflow temperature of the water. Have I got that right?

@broadsman I believe you have got it right. If you are in Indoor mode you should see it indicated in the bottom right of the central heating screen otherwise it will indicate water law if I remember correctly.

I opted for the room temperature control option due to my property having old 1970's radiators, which are unknown regards specifications in the system. Trying to calculate and tweak what flow temperatures are required to achieve 21C room temperature was a pain so I now let the heat pump do that for me.

I also confirmed it was working because some days the pump happily runs continuously producing water temperatures of  around 34C. When I was running on my manually configured WC I could not set the flow temperature to less than 37C before the compressor started cycling etc.  In addition, during the cold snap here of +2C, the pump increased the flow temperature to +48C and then varied the temperature between +45C and +48C to maintain the room temperature.

I am very pleased with the performance so far because the system used to take all day to recover from my setbacks with the old third party thermostat but now it takes approximately 4 - 5 hours in my case. This means I can start the pump during cheap electricity times when the samsung controller works the pump a little harder (I believe but not witnessed it so far) and the house is relatively warm when we get up in the morning. Once it reaches the room temp the flow temperature is backed off a little and the power consumption does go down compared to my previous consumption. If you monitor the controller it does vary the flow temperatures accordingly, to maintain the room temperature quite accurately in my case (+/- 0.3C on average) when the desired temperature has been reached.

As I have a bivalent system, my SCOP figure is based on an outside temperature of +2C and above. Since the beginning of January when I made the change, I am currently getting a COP of 3.95 for January and February compared to the previous 3.7 for November and December. I will need to run this new arrangement a full year to get an accurate SCOP figure but it is looking good to me so far

@technogeek Thanks. I think I will try the "Indoor" setting and see what the differences are from W/L

@technogeek Thanks for posting this in detail.  I've been running in this mode for ages, but hadn't realised the Schedule options added the ability to change temperature rather than just on/off.  

Because I wasn't aware of the setback scheduling option I've been using Home Assistant with the excellent ESP32 RS485 solution from @morh and a Home Assistant climate scheduler, which gives me control over the internet.

I do think your setup would be the simplest way to achieve local control without having to become a heat pump expert, providing that the MIM-E03 controller is installed in a good place for the thermostat within the building.

@technogeek I have now tried to change to Indoor mode, but I get an error message, but I may not have the 2093 settings correct. What are the full settings for 2093 please?

Posted by: @technogeek

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Once it reaches the room temp the flow temperature is backed off a little and the power consumption does go down compared to my previous consumption. If you monitor the controller it does vary the flow temperatures accordingly, to maintain the room temperature quite accurately in my case (+/- 0.3C on average) when the desired temperature has been reached.

You may have a different model from me - mine is a Gen 6 12kW Samsung - but on mine there is no feedback from the controller on LWT when room temperature target is approached. Basically, when the indoor temperature reaches target temperature plus one degree (eg 21C if target is 20C), then the heat pump is switched off and will come back on when the room temperature drops to 20C. The heat output does drop as room temperature rises, but this is due to the emitters emitting less heat as the temperature difference between emitter and room falls. I wonder if your ability to keep room temperature at +/- 0.3C is because you have got your water law settings perfectly set rather than feedback from the controller.