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How to best configure my Mitsubishi heat pump to work effectively?

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(@hughf)
Noble Member Member
3009 kWhs
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 487
 

Posted by: @derek-m

Posted by: @hughf

@derek-m 

One way around it is to use a PWM controlled pump on the secondary circuit too, piggybacked off the ASHP control boards PWM signal (provided it is available, mine is).... But if you're going to do that, you might as well ditch the buffer in the middle.

You have a Samsung ASHP, which does not have an internal water pump, hence the need for the PWM control signal, whether it is used or not, to control an external water pump. I'm not certain if other manufacturer's provide a speed control signal for external water pumps.

 

I’ve got a Cool Energy unit actually, I’ve just read a lot of the Samsung manuals over the last week.

 

Off grid on the isle of purbeck
2.4kW solar, 15kWh Seplos Mason, Outback power systems 3kW inverter/charger, solid fuel heating with air/air for shoulder months, 10 acres of heathland/woods.

My wife’s house: 1946 3 bed end of terrace in Somerset, ASHP with rads + UFH, triple glazed, retrofit IWI in troublesome rooms, small rear extension.


   
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(@cheshirecat)
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107 kWhs
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 18
Topic starter  

In reply to an earlier comment, I don’t appear to have a low loss header. 

I have a hot water tank with two pressure vessels in the system, I have a filter and I have two grundfoss pumps which as has been pointed out have a few settings. 

There is a pump speed setting buried in the FTC somewhere, I’m nervous to dig around too much as it asks me if I want to switch off the system when I press certain buttons. 

The Mitsi certainly seems to put heat over economy in the room adaptation mode.   I’m keeping a close eye on it and I think I’m probably unfortunate in having the ‘learning’ days where we get to know the heat pump in the cold, as the tweaks cost more the longer it takes to get it right. 

I’m confident I can get the consumption down though. 

I can see boiler flow/ return and another set of temps flow/return- which should have the 5 deg plus loss? 

This post was modified 2 years ago 2 times by CheshireCat

   
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(@hughf)
Noble Member Member
3009 kWhs
Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 487
 

Typical ecodan plumbing schematic is attached. Very simple, no buffer, no LLH

BEA05B1C C260 43AB 8448 9A69D26C7F37

Off grid on the isle of purbeck
2.4kW solar, 15kWh Seplos Mason, Outback power systems 3kW inverter/charger, solid fuel heating with air/air for shoulder months, 10 acres of heathland/woods.

My wife’s house: 1946 3 bed end of terrace in Somerset, ASHP with rads + UFH, triple glazed, retrofit IWI in troublesome rooms, small rear extension.


   
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(@kev-m)
Famed Member Member
5606 kWhs
Joined: 4 years ago
Posts: 1276
 

Posted by: @cheshirecat

In reply to an earlier comment, I don’t appear to have a low loss header. 

I have a hot water tank with two pressure vessels in the system, I have a filter and I have two grundfoss pumps which as has been pointed out have a few settings. 

There is a pump speed setting buried in the FTC somewhere, I’m nervous to dig around too much as it asks me if I want to switch off the system when I press certain buttons. 

The Mitsi certainly seems to put heat over economy in the room adaptation mode.   I’m keeping a close eye on it and I think I’m probably unfortunate in having the ‘learning’ days where we get to know the heat pump in the cold, as the tweaks cost more the longer it takes to get it right. 

I’m confident I can get the consumption down though. 

I can see boiler flow/ return and another set of temps flow/return- which should have the 5 deg plus loss? 

It's the other flows, not the boiler ones you should be looking at. I think 'boiler' = immersion in Mitsubishi. 

Don't worry about the system off warning if you want to have a look around. It's just a standby mode not a hard power down. You start it up again with the round button on the right. I haven't changed the pump settings on mine though. 

 


   
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