I appear unable to set mode to AA. When I do as previously suggested there should be two temps shown on the controller screen. Target temp and actual current temp. I only get the single temp shown, the larger figure, so no AA.
Mine does not show the smaller current temp number on the main controller either, but it's definitely running in AA mode. I had assumed that it was some quirk of having the remote wireless controller where the current temp is displayed.
No, it's a setting under Menu: Settings: Temp Display. Setting that to either ROOM or ROOM & TANK will display the current temperature on the main controller.
Been lurking on this thread for a while and.......................... My DT is poor. Rarely more than a degree or two difference. I've tried changing the flow rate as per the previous video. The DHW and heating are set at #5 = 21LPM flow. I change it to 3 and............no change, 21LPM. So that isn't going to alter my DT.
I appear unable to set mode to AA. When I do as previously suggested there should be two temps shown on the controller screen. Target temp and actual current temp. I only get the single temp shown, the larger figure, so no AA. Help please because this system is costing more to run as I think it's capable of.
I assume that you are changing the water pump speed on the FTC controller, but if the actual water pump is not wired the controller, then changing the setting will have no effect. See if you can change the speed on the pump itself.
The other thing to check would be that the temperature sensors have been correctly installed.
As far as AA mode is concerned, check that DIP Switch 5-2 has been correctly set, and that the required sensor has been selected.
i did as Derek suggested, partly, in cleaning up the temp sensors and pipe, reseating with 2 cable ties per sensor and wrapping in foil. i don't have thermal paste or pipe lagging to hand but I will try and put my hand on something to do the job of lagging the pipe around the sensor.
i have perhaps seen an increase of 1 or 2c in the LFT & RFT difference (DT). the DT I WAS seeing was 1 or 2c, NOW it is most often 2 or 3c,
does anyone know what this sensor is on the RETURN flow pipe? ah, found out. its the flow meter. this is what we are reading when we punch '540' in the main controller. 👍
i did as Derek suggested, partly, in cleaning up the temp sensors and pipe, reseating with 2 cable ties per sensor and wrapping in foil. i don't have thermal paste or pipe lagging to hand but I will try and put my hand on something to do the job of lagging the pipe around the sensor.
i have perhaps seen an increase of 1 or 2c in the LFT & RFT difference (DT). the DT I WAS seeing was 1 or 2c, NOW it is most often 2 or 3c,
does anyone know what this sensor is on the RETURN flow pipe? ah, found out. its the flow meter. this is what we are reading when we punch '540' in the main controller. 👍
If the pipes going through the wall on the left-hand side of the photo are going to the heat pump, I would suggest that you check which is the flow and return. According to the drawing in the manual, the lower pipe on the heat pump is the return connection, which would indicate that the blue water pump is pumping in the wrong direction. I would also suggest that you check that the flow meter is installed correctly, and any other pumps or filters on your system.
Had me worried for a moment! you are right, from the HP the top pipe is flow and bottom is return. but by the time the pipes have reached and are skirting the wall they have 'switched' position meaning flow is the bottom pipe as it enters the bungalow. so all appears correct.
Had me worried for a moment! you are right, from the HP the top pipe is flow and bottom is return. but by the time the pipes have reached and are skirting the wall they have 'switched' position meaning flow is the top pipe as it enters the bungalow. so all appears correct.
What made me question your installation, is the water pump is normally located on the return pipe, but it will still work on the flow pipe.
just found the compliance certificate from when HP was installed back in 2017. a heat loss value of 5.51kw. what time scale will this refer to as it doesn't mention. 'per year' hopefully.
I appear unable to set mode to AA. When I do as previously suggested there should be two temps shown on the controller screen. Target temp and actual current temp. I only get the single temp shown, the larger figure, so no AA. Help please because this system is costing more to run as I think it's capable of.
This sounds like something we had... Need to check a few things to be sure...
I will send you 2 pictures. One will be the first screen on the main controller as it should look when set on Auto Adapt.
The second picture of the screen will show how the display should look when you press the right side menu button...
can you tell me exactly what data is not showing on your controller when on the same information screens.
When was it fitted and do you have a Mitsubishi wireless room thermostat or a third party room thermostat?
Do you have all the information shown here on your display? Or what bits of information are missing?
It is possible that it’s just a setup selection that’s missing which is easily fixed but it could also be a fault. The difference is what other display data is missing.
Been lurking on this thread for a while and.......................... My DT is poor. Rarely more than a degree or two difference. I've tried changing the flow rate as per the previous video. The DHW and heating are set at #5 = 21LPM flow. I change it to 3 and............no change, 21LPM. So that isn't going to alter my DT.
I appear unable to set mode to AA. When I do as previously suggested there should be two temps shown on the controller screen. Target temp and actual current temp. I only get the single temp shown, the larger figure, so no AA. Help please because this system is costing more to run as I think it's capable of.
To display the room temp on the wireless controller, tap a button to get the screen to light up, then press and hold the tap and up/down buttons together and ----- will appear under the line. Then use the up button to bring it to ---4 and hit the hot water tap, above the line will start flashing and just press the up button once and you'll see a temperature come up. Press the suitcase button a few times and it exits the programming mode
I don't think not displaying the room temp will stop AA working though.
just found the compliance certificate from when HP was installed back in 2017. a heat loss value of 5.51kw. what time scale will this refer to as it doesn't mention. 'per year' hopefully.
Sorry, it is per hour, but only when it is -2.2C outside. At -5C it will be more. 😋
a heat loss value of 5.51kw. what time scale will this refer to as it doesn't mention. 'per year' hopefully.
This is "point in time", but only when the outside temperature is -2.2 degC. This is the design temperature for your house. MCS Standard MIS 3005, requires the unit to achieve 100% of the the heat load at an external temperature condition exceeded for 99.6% of the year. This suggests that 99.6% of the time the external temperature where you live is at or warmer than -2.2 degC
I see. I understand now what the number is telling me. My hope of 5kw heat loss per year was a bit hopeful then 🙃
In other news, woke this morning and checked temps & figures (now become my morning routine!)...
I setback WC -4 overnight. Still awoke to a 20c bungalow (i have ordered some basic thermometers to put in rooms to get a better idea of temps). These were the thermistor readings before cancelling the setback...
Note the -8c DT temps?! However, on refreshing it went to a -1 DT (27/28) so maybe a glitch, idk. Anyhow, removed the -4 setback and took another reading 30m later...
A DT of 7! Best I have ever seen, but how reliable are those numbers?! Also a drop in outside temp of 3c which adds weight to my theory it delivers a better DT when being worked harder, but idk.
Just checked readings again. DT of 4 (41/37 @ 0c ambient)
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