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Mitsubishi Ecodan ASHP general set-up and efficiency

ngillam · 2024-08-27T16:02:15Z

Hello all, new to the forum and keen to get the most out of our system. Long story short we live in a 185 sq metre new build barn with what I believe is an ECODAN 5kw ASHP coupled to underfloor heating. The building is very open plan consisting of two large bedrooms with two large bathrooms two large open lounges an open kitchen, boot room and attached art studio/workshop. We're located atop a hill in North Oxfordshire with south facing glazing to the rear so the sun does play it's part in cooking us in the summer. The installers provided an original set-up at the beginning of the year but without dwelling too much the property had a flood which resulted in the dehumidifiers and the heating ramp up to clear the effects of the flooding which is thankfully done with no lasting effects. It's been a number of months but I'm keen to get the set-up back to design intent, I'm a quick learner and would like to know all and eek the best out of what we have, we suffered a number of power-cuts recently and my partner jabbed away at god knows what to get things back on, she can't resist pushing buttons, it's an odd thing! but I wasn't around to prevent it. The attached images show the set-up, I've noticed since the powercuts the timers (of which we have two) need to be on for the showers to have hot water supplied to them. If off the water is cold despite hot water in tank...don't remember that being the case prior to power outage?? I have 2 x timers, one next to water tank (210 litre) and one above UFH manifolds so assuming each control each, water and heating? Each room has it's own similar thermostat and with it getting colder I'm keen to get the set-up running as efficiently as possible. There's two of us, occasional guests/kids visiting at weekends. Tank set to 48 degs with a drop of 7 before reheat. I think the timing thing has thrown me a little, which is master? The FTC or the individual timers I've indicated in photos? Can any kind soul see anything obvious or give a base setting I should be looking at to work from? Thanks, Neil.

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Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHPs)

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Gary

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06/12/2024 8:25 am

@ngillam

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ngillam

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Topic starter 07/12/2024 5:03 pm

@gary Afternoon, my actuators look slightly different to yours. It seems both bedrooms appear to suffer with the inability to talk with the heatmiser in the control room (the 12min - 48min thing), both rooms and ensuites are annexes off the rear of the house so most distant from controls room which explains the sporadic heating in those areas, Wifi is weak in both rooms too.

My actuators aren't moving freely, reluctant to force them!

Cheers,

Neil.

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Gary

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07/12/2024 5:18 pm

Get a spanner on it, what’s the worst that can happen your heating doesn’t currently work in those areas so you aren’t going to be worse off.

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ngillam

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Topic starter 07/12/2024 5:36 pm

@gary Will do, job for tomorrow, don't fancy fishing for toolbox in the shed. This storm has already destroyed my keter outside storage box, it cartwheeled across the orchard discharging contents as it went.

I was reading something about mesh networking the heatmisers...is that a thing to bridge the gap?

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Gary

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07/12/2024 5:49 pm

I think you need extra kit for that.

if you are successful in removing the actuator then you might as well remove all of them and get the system completely open loop.

if you have rads upstairs you may need to close the Lockshield valves in some rooms if they overheat.

Once it’s open loop all of the thermostats are redundant you just need 1 to tell the HP when to come on.

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ngillam

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Topic starter 07/12/2024 7:12 pm

@gary Will remove the actuators for the bedrooms first, just don't want to get showered in any fluids, do I have to depressurize or anything?

I'm all underfloor heating...no rads.

Is it a simple case or refitting if it doesn't work?

Thanks for the prompt replies. Thankful.

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Gary

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07/12/2024 7:17 pm

Yes they should just screw off and on they are just normal threads usually

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ngillam

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Topic starter 07/12/2024 7:21 pm

@gary ok, it's just mine have a small red stud on top that seem to activate, unsure of how that happens.

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Gary

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07/12/2024 8:24 pm

Maybe work out what brand they are and google the instructions

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ngillam

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Topic starter 10/01/2025 8:16 am

@gary Happy New Year! It's cold in our neck of the woods Gary, it dropped to -7 overnight. It looks as though my hot water struggled to reach temp as a result, just wondering how you're getting on given similar location and kit?

The DHW temp is set at 47 but barely got to 40 before the flow dropped at 05.34.....any ideas on what might cause this?

Energy consumption has gone through the roof!

Cheers,

Neil.

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Gary

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10/01/2025 8:42 am

@ngillam

Mine performed the same as normal hw took an hour to get to temp which is typical, hw shouldn't struggle to get to temp so something isn't right there.

Your flow temp isn't increasing so the hw temp isn't increasing. Its only managed to increase 5C in 30 mins before it had to defrost in the middle of the hw cycle which wouldn't have helped, how long do you have the hw scheduled for?

Mine increased 20C in 30 min last night.

I schedule mine for 2 hours knowing that from stone cold it can get to temp in that time, normally 1 hour is sufficient with normal use.

Not sure what controller you have but check what the pump speed is for the HW

That's very low usage for heating I used 40kwh yesterday.

This post was modified 1 year ago 2 times by Gary

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ngillam

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Topic starter 10/01/2025 9:53 am

@gary DHW was set to heat 1hr prior to this time and has been fine until this morning, it only needs to go from 30 ish to 47 in that hour, it seems to have been the defrost cycle which wiped it out. Pump speed set at 3.

Is there a way to control the defrost cycle or method to ensure it doesn't disrupt DHW heat?

Thanks,

Neil.

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