Hi, I've got an ecodan. The whole electrics and DIP switches are pretty complicated for a homeowner. Are you able to speak to the people that installed the heat pump? 

@davidnolan22 I private rent and the landlords are trying to be helpful to a degree but are hesitant to get Mitsubishi out due to costs, they own our estate and next estate 22 properties all with heat pumps all with different issues, they bought the estates from the company that built them and don't know who installed apparently but are "sure" Mitsubishi commissioned them

@michaelsimpsonuk Appreciate the predicament you are in, but it won't get sorted without someone who understands how Ecodan's should be installed and how to set up the dip switches for multiple zones.

As you rent I would vote with my feet and move.

How a new build needs a 14kw heat pump is also worrying assuming its a normal size house.

My 20 year old, badly built/badly insulated 5 bed detached works fine with an 8kw heat pump.

That suggests whomever put it in didn't know what they were doing.

On that point, I’d agree. I’ve a 260m2 retro fit. Parts of it are 18th century cottage. I’ve got 11.2 kw. It’s not got lots of spare capacity, but seems to cover it 

@gary thanks for the reply

Its a 3 storey 6 bed house 279 sq Mtrs.

I've been trying to learn the system since we moved in as we have never used one before, it just seems very odd.

Gonna have to think hard about continuing living here my last electric bill was £627 for 1 month

That’s quite expensive, but, to put into context. My heat loss is about 9 to 10kw at 0 degrees. And with my high thermal mass, I can only run my house at one steady temp 24/7, no set back and no on/off. 

I run all open zones and low flow temp so I get cop of 4ish at 0. But, my house needs 190-220kw (heat loss x 24) a day when it’s around freezing, with my 4 Cop that’s 50 to 55 ish kw a day. Can be a bit more. 

so that’s at standard rate 25p £13.75 for heating another pound or so for hot water, then a few quid for the rest of the house.

So 15 to 20 pound daily costs are pretty normal for me in deep winter. That’s 450 to 500 a month if it’s very cold outside, for the heavy months of the year,  and there is not much I can do about that without batteries and solar.

i might try again load shifting and havenwise type products again, but my house seems to prefer steady heat all the time. 

So I reckon you could get it working better, but with a 14kw pump, there will be limits. All depends on your heat loss and how efficient you can run the pump as well as comfort etc etc

one thing you can do with gas is turn it off and choose to be colder to save money, knowing you can quickly heat the house for the periods you want to. For instance, I don’t need to heat my house to 20 all night, but, in cold weather if I turned the pump off for 7 hours then I’d never get the house back to 20 again until it warmed up outside.  There is generally not enough spare capacity in a heat pump to do that.

the one thing that might help you do that, or load shift in general, is if you have 14kw heat pump but your actual heat loss in cold weather is 6 (with a good new build, you might not be far away from that) But  you’ll need to know what you’re  doing and run some experiments to find all that out. 

Posted by: @michaelsimpsonuk

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Any help appreciated.

If you're technically-minded you can probably figure it out, though it may take a while to sink in.  If you've adjusted the dipswitches already, you've probably downloaded the installation manual (if not, do so - it's very helpful).  Read all of the Electrical work section several times.  Have a look at the IN and OUT tables there, and check your UFH manifold connection; it sounds like it's not in the right block and it also sounds like the power cable from the manifold isn't right (permanent vs switched?).

It could also be you have the stat inputs logic set wrongly in the dipswitches (stop at short vs stop at open).

You can also check all the components (e.g. the pumps) are connected/operating correctly by using Manual operation in the service menu.

Take (decent) pictures of all the dipswitches as they are then check each value against the table in the installation manual and adjust anything obvious.  You need to power the system down then back up before any changes to them take effect.

 

@rhh2348 Thanks for the reply, I am somewhat technically minded but having to learn about all this from scratch, to me it looks like the ufh pump controller is wired up back to front and the pump or controller is wired up to the ecodan board as if it is the zone 1 pump but not sure I will try to upload some pics, I tried the dip switches and follow the on off process but doesn't work correctly, it's either wired or plumbed wrong.

Nothing wired into the IN connectors at all.

 

Thx

 

Posted by: @michaelsimpsonuk

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it looks like the ufh pump controller is wired up back to front

Not my area of expertise so won't comment on that.

 

the pump or controller is wired up to the ecodan board as if it is the zone 1 pump

I assume 'the ecodan board' is the 'FTC' (flow temperature controller) - you can see the FTC6 label at the top of the board.  The UFH pump could definitely be for zone 1 - using the installation manual, find the corresponding Output (OUT2) and see where that wire goes to.  Or use the manual operation I mentioned earlier to see if the right pumps/2-ports come on when you select them.

In the Initial settings menu on the main remote controller ("main controller" as you called it), check to see what Zone 1 and Zone 2 are set as / check Zone 1 is assigned to MRC and Zone 2 to wireless (you could assign both zones to the main controller for diagnostics).

Check you've not set timers on them too.

 

Nothing wired into the IN connectors at all.

Technically, the MRC is wired to TBI6.1 + 2 😉  If there are no others, that means there are no external thermostat inputs (apologies - I missed your "zone one set to the main controller" comment earlier).

 

Go through every setting and every dipswitch as listed in the installation manual and make sure it makes sense.

 

Post some pics of the MRC display at various expected states of operation to ensure the display correlates - if it does, it's likely wiring as you deduced, or faulty components.

 

@michaelsimpsonuk hi, I’m still aware that this isn’t your heating system: it’s your landlords. I’d tell them your concerns or move out.