Not really sure there's anything we haven't mentioned...
Check Setpoint Mode is set to Weather Dependant
What would you like the room temp to be ?
Raise the Honeywell to a couple of degrees over that temp, for all time periods (ie to override any scheduling).
Has the system restarted since the changes you've made, where the screen synchronises and counts up from 0% to 100% ? It will probably run the hot water cycle when it restarts - mine does !
I tried a restart and it said it was synchronising data and the following screens are now relevant: 34 degrees would seem to be right with an outdoor temp of 8 according to the graph.
Still puzzled about what to do with the thermostat - should I have that on a continuous temperature and if so what? It was that that was causing the clicking on and off and "firing up".
@heat-pump-newbie Sorry, just seen this and replied before. OK so it has done the sync as you said. I'll put the thermostat into manual mode and raise temp as suggested.
WD curve same as before.
Also discovered in the installer menu it's possible to change the parameter to go below the 25 if I need to on the set point curve (can't remember where though).
Thanks Newbie, I had forgotten about the restart, one of the pleasures of growing older. 🙄
Since the Honeywell thermostat is still connected to your system, it needs to be set to 1C or 2C above the desired indoor air temperature, so that it enables the heat pump to operate, but does not actually set the temperature. The indoor air temperature will now be controlled by the Daikin controller in conjunction with the outdoor air temperature sensor.
It is now necessary to set all the TRV's to maximum, except for the ones located in used bedrooms. Then monitor the temperature in each room, along with the radiator temperatures, over several hours as your system stabilises to its new settings. Once the temperatures have become fairly constant then report back and we can then advise on any further adjustments that may be necessary.
@bridgetjohn Great ! The set point curve shows that the current radiator water temp (LWT) is still hot from before, looks like it's the full 60 deg as the blue goes right round. Can you show the screen with the flow rate and temperatures just to confirm that's all looking right.
Here you go. I've been checking it. The flow still gets to 30l/min and that's when it gets noisy. I will lag the pipes, though can't lag the towel rail :-). Will need a plumber on that I think.
Thanks for all your help both of you. I'll keep an eye on it for the next few days and report back as requested.
Argh ! How frustrating ! You'll notice the change in temp of the radiators etc, but they should stay on for long periods so the rooms shouldn't cool down. Those WD curve numbers may need tweaking but you'll need to wait till it settles down before making any changes. Keep us posted !
Random thought, but I wondered if the booster heater might be set wrong and that's what's causing it. Can I compare my data with yours? Here's photo from last night and another from this morning from the Running Hours menu:
Random thought, but I wondered if the booster heater might be set wrong and that's what's causing it. Can I compare my data with yours? Here's photo from last night and another from this morning from the Running Hours menu:
thanks
Hi Bridget,
The Booster Heater is actually the Immersion Heater in your hot water cylinder. Obviously it would be preferable from an efficiency point of view to heat the hot water using the heat pump.
Thinking about installing a heat pump but unsure where to start? Already have one but it’s not performing as expected? Or are you locked in a frustrating dispute with an installer or manufacturer? We’re here to help.
