Is this a bad insta...
 
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Is this a bad installation and is there something wrong with my Samsung heat pump?

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(@david999)
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@hughf it’s not what they say it’s what they do.  My friend was over at the weekend and he works for the local authorities.  He tells me residents only get something done if the threaten to go to the newspapers.  

If MCS are allowed to continue without  redress then it’s pointless, it’s money for a fancy stamp on your docs that provides nothing. Investors in people is an accreditation that on paper looks impressive but empty promises. 


   
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(@david999)
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  • @transparent I’m old now transparent and over the years I have seen promises made and broken, guarantees that looked great on paper but proved to be useless. So when recently an electrician did the dirty on me, no amount dialogue helped, but when I started to post on all the local forums, factually, it hurt him and he refunded me.  From “i cant be bothered finishing the job I was paid for”  to “how much for you to stop posting and remove it”.  You see we actually have power and it benefits all to share so if they don’t step up to the bar then shame them and ask everyone to share it.  
  • but in the same token everyone has the right to a chance to rectify the mistake and that’s what I’m doing at the minute. It’s become difficult for me though because in the past month I was diagnosed with cancer on an eye and been in and out of surgery both for removal and reconstruction and a way to go yet. Getting into trouble if I leave my room 😊

   
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sjn
 sjn
(@sjn)
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@david999

Posted by: @david999

the room stat wires are the wrong way around on the panel and wondering if they are polarity conscious

-- Attachment is not available --

or any way is fine.  

The blue and brown wires at the top right are connected to TB-C F3 & F4 on the controller PCB. I'm sure this is the RS-485 communications port for the Wired Remote Controller (MWR-WW10N) - one of these:

Posted by: @mike-h
image

As an RS-485 connection, the wires are polarity conscious. Your Blue wire in F3 is Line-A and the Brown wire in F4 is Line-B. These must be connected to the appropriate COM2_A and COM2_B PCB terminals in the Wired Remote Controller. See Page 8 of the Installation Manual - here.

I get a bit confused by some of the terminology used in examples and diagrams on the web about the Wired Remote Controller. As it includes a thermometer it can be configured as a Room Stat to control the system operation - indeed some say this is the best mode of operation - so it is sometime referred to as a Room Stat or LDC Stat.

Posted by: @david999

The wires into some of these have split the strands and bits poking out. Crimped connections would have been better. 

Yes, crimped connections would have been much better. It is strange that the Installation Manual stresses the need to use crimped connectors on the Wired Remote Controller end of the communications wire - and even includes a detailed drawing with dimensions for the crimp - but doesn't mention them for any of the data/control connectors on the main controller PCB,only for the power connectors 🤔 

 


   
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Transparent
(@transparent)
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If @sjn  is correct that this is an RS485 connection, then those wires should be a twisted pair, not a 2-core lighting flex.

Approximately how long is the wire to the Remote Controller on the wall, @david999  ?

The connections to the lower two screw terminals (F1 & F2?) on that same 6-way PCB connector do look like a twisted pair. And the light-blue outer insulation layer appears to have an earth/screen layer cut short where the inner two black wires emerge.

image

I'm happy using loose/untwisted wires for RS485 up to a couple of metres on a workbench.

But when they're in close proximity to other cables, including mains, then I'd certainly want a twisted-pair in order to reduce interference.

Save energy... recycle electrons!


   
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(@sjn)
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@transparent the TB-C F1 & F2 screw terminals with the screened twisted-pair are the RS-485 link to the Outdoor Unit.

I agree with your comments on the preference for twisted-pair, unfortunately the Samsung Installation Manual guidance for the Wired Remote Controller communications wire is less helpful:

Screenshot from 2024 05 06 11 44 23

   
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(@david999)
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  1. @transparent that controller was moved from the loft and no idea why they put it in there where it was freezing cold and we couldn’t get to it. It’s about 10 feet away from the panel in the loft,  following the pipes though. 
  2. they intend changing the 40 watt pumps to 100 watt but refuse to wire in the relay samsung recommends and I’m told it will burn out the pcb contractors. 

   
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(@mike-h)
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Posted by: @david999

looks like installer has to change pipework and bits, it’s 40watt pumps and spec is 100watt but flow is only 29lpm and Samsung want 46lpm.  If converting to 35mm pipe as spec from samsung do all the valves etc need changed as well. Currently running 28mm primary pipe. 

@david999 What size is your Samsung? Is it 16kW? If not, 29lpm should be ample flow rate.


   
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(@david999)
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@mike-h 16kw samsung want 46ltr and 35mm pipe but don’t know if they need to change the valves and bits on the 28mm pipes. Any idea.


   
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(@kenbone)
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@mike-h totally agree.

Technical Manager & Professional Installer: Ultimate Renewables


   
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(@kenbone)
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@david999 absolutely no need the 100watt is the limit of what that relay can handle.

Technical Manager & Professional Installer: Ultimate Renewables


   
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(@david999)
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@kenbone no need for what kenbone regarding the 100watt, lost track there.


   
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(@david999)
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Just an update, my installer has given me until Monday to prove to them basically I need 35mm primary pipe. Samsung emailed me stating 35mm and others online quote the 35mm for a 16kw ASHP, and for a couple of sizes smaller.  My installer insists 28mm will work and came up with ideas like bigger pump, two pumps to increase flow.  But my concerns are velocity and I had the help of friend who calculated the velocity, and with 28mm copper it’s 1.4ms and the max stated is 1ms.  Plastic 28mm takes it to 1.8ms and since mine is a mix of both over the 1ms threshold. The calculations were made taking the inside diameters of both pipes since they are quite smaller. 

is there a post on here that would seal this one way or the other. I see my Samsung warranty evaporating in front of me. 


   
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