Not got to grips with controller yet, I work away so not much time but keeping close eye on melcloud data. Saw @justinsb talking about cop's of 5.1 and was intrigued.
Main controller located in loft. It's a bungalow 224m* underfloor throughout uponor thermostats in each room.
Definitely feel twitchy about messing with the settings but also understand it's what everyone says you have to do. Initial set up is flow temp of 40*, hot water tank set to 50*, installer said to just leave alone and let the room thermostats call as they need it. Averaging about 30kwh per day at moment. We replaced LPG system.
Thanks for responding.
Hi RV3,
At the end of the day, you are not actually 'messing' with the settings, you are correcting the mistakes that your installer left for you to resolve. This unfortunately is the situation that many customers find themselves in. At least on the forum you will find quite a number of people who will be able to guide you through the process of getting your system operating correctly and efficiently.
@kev-m Hi Kev been following your comments as knew you had same ecodan. Thanks for responding.
We have ufh not radiators. We replaced a boiler based LPG system that wasn't working well at all.
Has your weather comp changes meant an increase in cop and therefore a decrease in cost according to melcloud?
At the minute our operation mode reports state that in last seven days pump is 38% stopped, 57% on for heating, 4% for hot water and then a touch for legionella.
I'm home in a week or so. Will take a deep breath and start playing with settings - need a bit of time with the manual. If you have any tips re settings for weather comp then gratefully received.
at the moment I don't know if my COP has improved as my controller has stopped recording energy produced. However, I'm heating my whole house to about 21C with about 11kWh per day. It is smaller than yours at 160m2 and it is very mild at the moment.
I have the thermostats turned up as far as they will go and the system running on weather comp only. My stats for the last 3 days are 72% stopped, 21% heating and the rest HW/Leg.
I suspect your ASHP is responding to the thermostats, heating the water up to 40C and using it to heat the house before switching off. The house cools and then it does it again. I'm sure that's not the best way to run ufh with an ASHP.
The good news is that it's very easy to change to weather compensation, as long as your installer has wired it all up properly and enabled it. A quick look at the controller will confirm. Also very easy to change back.
If you haven't seen, have a look at this and others from the same contributor.
Not got to grips with controller yet, I work away so not much time but keeping close eye on melcloud data. Saw @justinsb talking about cop's of 5.1 and was intrigued.
Main controller located in loft. It's a bungalow 224m* underfloor throughout uponor thermostats in each room.
Definitely feel twitchy about messing with the settings but also understand it's what everyone says you have to do. Initial set up is flow temp of 40*, hot water tank set to 50*, installer said to just leave alone and let the room thermostats call as they need it. Averaging about 30kwh per day at moment. We replaced LPG system.
As many have pointed out before, the fabric and insulation of the property does make a difference here.
This might not be very accurate or scientific but as a comparison to properties, I have 271sqm with the ground floor being UFH. (60mm screed with ceramic tiles)
Walls are 1950s brick with cavity insulation.
For the w/c 01/11/21 I too ran the system at 40º flow, 50º DHW, 22º room temp all day and night with the thermostats controlling the ASHP.
Average outside temp for the week was 8ºC. I used 146kWh on heating.
If you compare that week with your data it might indicate how comparible our properties are.
@derek-m here is all the info on my house, in terms of area, heat loss, & radiators. My Solar is still awaiting full commissioning, so I can't say how that will impact upon my daily electricity real-world costs. The house has settled into a nice 21°C & it doesn't seem to change much, my flow temp is currently 33°C, & my DHW is at a happy 46°C, just as I set it.
My COP is currently 5.5 & my real-world electricity usage appears to be around 13Kwh, which means that my ASHP is costing me around £2.15 per day to run (on my Neon Reef fixed tariff, whilst they're still in business)
@derek-m OK, one last question. Using the weather compensation curve, we usually have a screen that looks like this. If we change this to -1 or +1, what does it actually do behind the scenes? If we find out that running it at -1 actually doesn't seem to make the house any colder, but reduces the cost or increases the COP, how do we actually "tweak" the curve to reflect this?
At the moment, my system is set to use a water flow temperature of 45C for an outside air temperature of 0C and a water flow temperature of 20C at an outside air temperature of 20C.
Those are excellent figures, I feel certain that there are many forum members who are envious. Your home must be well insulated, but also have a quite good thermal mass, hence the reasonably constant temperature. Your weather compensation would appear to be very close to optimum, though further refinement may be necessary when we get much colder weather conditions. I would not recommend making any adjustments at the moment, just collect the data.
I assume the Sun room has a large glass area, how is this affected by solar gain?
Do you still have any active controls within your system, thermostats, TRV's etc?
Interesting because mine gave me details prior to an installer re-visit to sort out the room stat pairing issue. Seems the stat was able to switch on to demand heat but unable to do the reverse so just kept on heating.
Since his visit I cannot access this info.
What can he have changed for this to happen I wonder. More importantly, how do I enable access to the information?
Retrofitted 11.2kw Mitsubishi Ecodan to new radiators commissioned November 2021.
14 x 500w Monocrystalline solar panels.
What can he have changed for this to happen I wonder. More importantly, how do I enable access to the information?
I'm sorry @morgan, I can't work out what your installer has done, or how to remedy it. I would advise calling them & explaining that they've cocked something up, & you want them back to fix it, pronto. However, there is a second option that we have all forgotten. You can call the Mitsubishi Ecodan helpline! The number is on the label on the front of your cylinder & it's a nice, normal Manchester telephone number 0161 866 6064 (as opposed to a high rate one). They are really helpful, as I have had to call them a few days ago.
@derek-m OK, one last question. Using the weather compensation curve, we usually have a screen that looks like this. If we change this to -1 or +1, what does it actually do behind the scenes? If we find out that running it at -1 actually doesn't seem to make the house any colder, but reduces the cost or increases the COP, how do we actually "tweak" the curve to reflect this?
At the moment, my system is set to use a water flow temperature of 45C for an outside air temperature of 0C and a water flow temperature of 20C at an outside air temperature of 20C.
Hi Justin,
I'm afraid I didn't design the system or write the software, so I don't know exactly what action is performed within the inner sanctum of the controller.
Having thought about it, it is probably adding or subtracting to the calculated water flow temperature rather than the desired room temperature, so you may have to change it by say 5, before you see any appreciable change in indoor temperatures. Also it can take several hours before changes in temperature settings are fully achieved, so it is important to make an adjustment and then wait for the system to stabilse before making any further adjustments.
1. Your home must be well insulated, but also have a quite good thermal mass, hence the reasonably constant temperature.
2. Your weather compensation would appear to be very close to optimum, though further refinement may be necessary when we get much colder weather conditions.
3. I would not recommend making any adjustments at the moment, just collect the data.
4. I assume the Sun room has a large glass area, how is this affected by solar gain?
5. Do you still have any active controls within your system, thermostats, TRV's etc?
1. House 20 years old, & yes, it does appear to be decently insulated, although I could do with a bit more in the loft.
2. OK, that sounds like a good plan
3. OK, I'll keep on collecting as much data as I can
4. Sun room is totally double glazed glass, with a properly insulated tiled roof. Solar Gain is what brings it back up to warm in the daytime! Currently, it hits around 17°C in the day, then drops down to 14°C overnight. If the sun really comes out, it hits tropical almost instantly.
5. Yes. Every single radiator except the one on the landing has a Bulldog Gen2 TRV fitted. They are all set to their max setting, & don't appear to be messing with anything. I still have the Honeywell controllable thermostat jacked in too, but as far as I can tell the Ecodan & it appear to be ignoring each other. It sits there saying 21°C (as it has for some days now) & the Ecodan does whatever it wants. I don't think that either it or the TRV's are having an effect on the system.
It would be easy to check, note the water flow temperature then bump the setting up by say 5, and see if the water flow temperature is increased by 5. Alternatively, you could drop the setting by 5, which would be more environmentally friendly.
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