@iancalderbank I was not left with ta manual so thanks for the link. We can hear the pumps running wherever we are downstairs and at most locations upstairs due to them being in a centrally located airing cupboard.
I suspect the pumps are being activated by the nest calling for heat but will explore this and see.
@mike-h thanks. I guess it is really about getting used to the sound then. It has been a nice comfortable temperature day and night the last few days so I will only change the value in FSV 2091 then.
I have just remembered that the installer mentioned having the third pump for pressure to the showers as I had one previously.
as per mike-h, if you want to be able to temporarily and quickly "boost" your temperature the only easy way (without delving into modbus control) is to stay with external thermostat and use the Offset value to temporarily increase the WT, which will increase the indoor temp. But this is not recommended by the purists for the most efficient way of running a HP of course.
if you run with the samsung wired controller as thermostat then increasing the setpoint on that stat will not in itself increase anything other than the point at which it will tell things to turn off. Its not clever enough to do anything else like "ask for more effort from the heat pump". Other brands controllers do this much better.
So you can only really use it to keep a stable maximum temp (in combination with WC settings) and control when you do and don't want it to run - by setting a lower temp overnight, it will likely not run (or run less). There however is a small hack you can do, if your WC is tuned so that actual WT's are slightly higher than "perfect input and loss balance" then increasing the controllers setpoint will allow the house's set point to increase. but it'll only do so slowly of course.
pump noise - If you want your circulating pumps to run slower + quieter at low load you need to implement PWM to slow them down. Which given that you have a buffer and two pumps I am not sure is possible. you also need the right sort of pump. It is definitely possible with a single pump and no buffer, I've done it.
otherwise, its all manner of common sense noise reduction measures : noise insulating materials, pipe vibration damping, etc.
@mike-h you can use weekly schedules as a more streamlined way, they're harder to find, I only started using them very recently. despite being called weekly you can set a weekly schedule that runs every day (go figure).
@swanny ok if the 3rd pump is to boost your the water pressure to the shower then its nothing to do with the central heating, we can forget about it for this discussion.
@swanny also. the pipe insulation in the loft is crap. look at the gaps. Because its in your loft it really matters. it will be at outside temperature up there. because of this (its outside), I'd also suggest to wrap a layer of loft insulation over / round the whole thing, use one with with a backing so you don't get bits everywhere. Or. build a box out of celotex and fit it over it.
@mike-h I have attached a photo of buffer tank as requested. I will speak to Greener Living about it but tbh, have no faith in them doing everything. I am still chasing them to return and complete some outstanding work they lost interest in after taking full payment 4 months on.
Is the 25% inverter value any good or bad? I was previously using the sound from the pumps to go out and check for cycling but with the pumps now on permanently, I have no way of checking any more as the ASHP cannot be heard from the house.
i have also attached photos showing the values for FSV 2091/2092. Any observations welcomed. Photos also included for the pumps as requested by @iancalderbank earlier.
You could consider changing the buffer tank into a volumiser in the return leg to the heat pump.
This would remove the need for balancing the primary and secondary flowrates, allow the secondary water pump to be removed, and still provide a store of thermal energy to help with defrost cycles.
I am surprised that you would need a water pump for the showers, do you not have a pressurised DHW cylinder?
as per mike-h, if you want to be able to temporarily and quickly "boost" your temperature the only easy way (without delving into modbus control) is to stay with external thermostat and use the Offset value to temporarily increase the WT, which will increase the indoor temp. But this is not recommended by the purists for the most efficient way of running a HP of course.
if you run with the samsung wired controller as thermostat then increasing the setpoint on that stat will not in itself increase anything other than the point at which it will tell things to turn off. Its not clever enough to do anything else like "ask for more effort from the heat pump". Other brands controllers do this much better.
So you can only really use it to keep a stable maximum temp (in combination with WC settings) and control when you do and don't want it to run - by setting a lower temp overnight, it will likely not run (or run less). There however is a small hack you can do, if your WC is tuned so that actual WT's are slightly higher than "perfect input and loss balance" then increasing the controllers setpoint will allow the house's set point to increase. but it'll only do so slowly of course.
pump noise - If you want your circulating pumps to run slower + quieter at low load you need to implement PWM to slow them down. Which given that you have a buffer and two pumps I am not sure is possible. you also need the right sort of pump. It is definitely possible with a single pump and no buffer, I've done it.
otherwise, its all manner of common sense noise reduction measures : noise insulating materials, pipe vibration damping, etc.
@mike-h you can use weekly schedules as a more streamlined way, they're harder to find, I only started using them very recently. despite being called weekly you can set a weekly schedule that runs every day (go figure).
Looks like I have to stick with the thermostat and set it to constantly call for heat. I will also explore sound proofing measure for the pumps but I suspect this will be limited.
@swanny also. the pipe insulation in the loft is crap. look at the gaps. Because its in your loft it really matters. it will be at outside temperature up there. because of this (its outside), I'd also suggest to wrap a layer of loft insulation over / round the whole thing, use one with with a backing so you don't get bits everywhere. Or. build a box out of celotex and fit it over it.
Noted thanks. I’m going to get busy this weekend 😊
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