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Battery system to make my heat pump cheaper to run

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Noble Member Contributor
4994 kWhs
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 766

@windymiller The Tesla Powerwall is in the extension along with the wiring to the grid connections at my meter and control gear for the 8.1 kWp. solar PV. The Tesla Gateway does all of the switching required via the IOS app. 27kW/h of energy will run the house and heating for approx. 10 hours or more depending on how hard the heat pump needs to work. Usually, there are sufficient hours during the night when greenest and cheapest rate allow me to fill the battery again. I have not knowingly ever had to take power from the grid during the ‘peak time’ of 16:00 to about 19:30 or so. Normally, I’ll tell the MyEnergi Eddi to charge the Sunamp Thermino during the night as that cheap rate then allows me to export more of my solar PV at 15p. Per kW/h during the day - though I can of course let the sun take the DHW strain if required too. Regards, Toodles.

Toodles, 76 years young and hoping to see 100 and make some ROI on my renewable energy investment!

Famed Member Moderator
8049 kWhs
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Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 1347

From observations I've made at substations, the main issue with ASHPs is the switch-on surge.


A typical domestic (single-phase) heat pump can take 30-35A when starting, which drops down to less than 10A once the compressor has got the fluids up to working pressure.
Plus there's a spike as the compressor motor starts which lasts around 1/10th second whilst the magnetic flux builds up.

So any inverter with a HP as a load must be able to deliver that output surge current whilst keeping the voltage within the required envelope.

What's the maximum continuous current and the surge current capability of the inverter within your Hyundai?

If you're 'running an extension lead', what's its current rating or conductor specification?

This post was modified 4 weeks ago by Transparent

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