@gary So following your instructions I'll have 99 seconds to run through and pair (if required)? I was hoping I could remove faceplate and switch to correct rooms if they were paired incorrectly. Hopefully all will become clear over the weekend, I don't remember my actuators moving freely, lets see.
Cheers,
Neil.
@gary The heating bill often looks like we live in a mansion with multiple wings.......but that's just because it gets to warm. Next time you're in North Oxfordshire let me know....owe you multiple pints.
Neil.
Thanks to @gary my heatmisers and UFH manifolds are paired and talking to each other, although the far bedroom seems to have switch off on manifold every now and then despite heatmiser demanding heat?!
This is the latest set of numbers for the last week/24hrs.
Any thoughts or observations?
Thanks,
Neil.
@ngillam If the far bedroom is turning on for 12 mins then off for 48mins then the wiring centre isn't getting a signal this is a fail safe that allows the circuit to operate whilst it has no connection to the thermostat.
In the melcloud app below the internal temperature section there is hourly temps and you can look at what is going on every hour for the previous 24 hours it will show you what your heat pump is doing hour by hour its useful to see how often it cycling on and off.
Below the estimated energy use plot there are bar charts for estimated consumed and delivered energy dividing delivered by consumed will give the efficiency or COP, mine when its cold like yesterday is about 3
Does your system have glycol in it, if so you can turn off the freeze stat function that operates the pumps when the HP is off, this is for 100% water systems to prevent them freezing
@gary Hi, Unsure what else I can do about signal to far bedroom, aerials are in but assume the timber heavy nature of the structure might hinder it?
Cycling doesn't look too bad over the last number of hours
My cop based on 12.5 consumed and 60 delivered for yesterday is 4.8
Glycol.....not sure, surely there must be a label/tag somewhere to indicate?
The house is still a bit too warm for us, but the flow temp is about 28, I fear cycling if I go any lower, can I adjust flow rates to somehow cool the rooms?
Thanks,
Neil.
All you can really do is try lower flow rate as long as it’s only cycling once an hour that’s ok.
Only other way to reduce cycling is to ensure the max water volume is available that means removing all the actuators so all areas are heated then you may be able to run the flow temp lower
For the bathroom that’s losing connection I would remove the actuator so it’s always open then as long as one of the circuits on that manifold calls for heat then heat will always flow to the bedroom
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