Joining the Renewable Heating Hub forums is completely free and only takes a minute. By registering you’ll be able to ask questions, join discussions, follow topics you’re interested in, bookmark useful threads and receive notifications when someone replies. When choosing your username, please note that it cannot be changed later, so we recommend avoiding brand or product names. Before registering, please take a moment to read the Forum Rules & Terms of Use so we can keep the community helpful, respectful and informative for everyone. Thanks for joining!
Controlling dumb thermostat in a smart way?
I think most people here agree that thermostats being used with an ASHP on WC control is a big no!
Last winter I simply upped the thermostat temperature to keep the thermostat 'calling for heat' and as such keeping the 2 circulation pumps running.
I would like to smartify this if possible due to shorter demand time in the shoulder seasons.
I run some home automation software called Home Assistant. With this I pull in (from the cloud unfortunately) flow temps etc from my Nibe ASHP. (I believe this could also be done by Modbus?)
I'm thinking of using Home Assistant and some form of smart relay to control the main circulation pumps based on parameters I receive from the heat pump.
Does anyone have any better suggestions?
What are you trying to achieve?
My understanding is you’re best not interfering with the HPs controls.
we’ve just changed ours and ripped out the stats. Although it’s cooler now the pumps are still turning off when the room temp is met but we’re using the Mitsubishi stat rather than a 3rd party.
250sqm house. 30kWh Sunsynk/Pylontech battery system. 14kWp solar. Ecodan 14kW. BMW iX.
Yes I agree that we do not want to interfere with the heat pump controls, more that I want my dumb thermostat to be controlled by my heat pump so that the pumps run when the HP wants them to run.
There is probably a way the electrician can re-integrate the pumps into the ASHP, however I am concerned that the pumps would run the whole time in that case.
We set out pumps to be controlled by the ASHP rather than the stats and had the same concerns as you. Eg if on WC would the pumps just run 24/7?
but using the Mitsubishi room controller, even on WC it still shuts the pumps down if the room temp is +1c over the target temp
so rather than over complicate can you get a Nibe room controller?
250sqm house. 30kWh Sunsynk/Pylontech battery system. 14kWp solar. Ecodan 14kW. BMW iX.
pumps use less than 100w, many as low as 5w..they all are speed variable, so look on the pumps.
in the first best world you wouldn’t need more than one pump for a heat pump up to 14kws, but obviously UFH increases that requirement
Professional installer
We have 4 on ours. 1 on flow, 1 on return (due to long outdoors pipe run they didn’t oversize…)
central heating
UFH
250sqm house. 30kWh Sunsynk/Pylontech battery system. 14kWp solar. Ecodan 14kW. BMW iX.
Posted by: @alec-morrowIn the first best world you wouldn’t need more than one pump for a heat pump up to 14kws, but obviously UFH increases that requirement
Does it? Eek! Only one pump in my UFH system ... is that bad?
Actually, that leads me on to another question. My Vaillant system feeds a manifold with valves on each output controlled by thermostats in each room. Currently the (one and only) circulation pump is connected to the SensoComfort unit, so when it decides the room is warm enough it shuts down the whole system. That's not much good if the kitchen (a colder room) is still trying to heat up, the Heatmiser valve opens, but the circulation pump is off so no heat is forthcoming. What I've ended up doing is turning up the heat on the SensoComfort, but it means the pump is running 24/7, which is noisy, uses about 25w of electricity, and will no doubt wear out much sooner than it should.
Looking at it there are a couple of options ...
1. the Heatmiser controller has a Boiler output which can control a relay which sends a trigger to the Vaillant wiring centre to tell it that heat is required, but it looks like a faff to set up.
2.Alternatively, the Heatmiser has a (currently unused) pump output, so I could connect the circulation pump to that instead. This would be a much easier option, but is there a downside? I'm thinking that fundamentally the ASHP heats the contents of the buffer tank, which then gets sucked through the system by the circulation pump, so I'm wondering if that would be ok?
Posted by: @lukeI think most people here agree that thermostats being used with an ASHP on WC control is a big no!
Last winter I simply upped the thermostat temperature to keep the thermostat 'calling for heat' and as such keeping the 2 circulation pumps running.
I would like to smartify this if possible due to shorter demand time in the shoulder seasons.
I run some home automation software called Home Assistant. With this I pull in (from the cloud unfortunately) flow temps etc from my Nibe ASHP. (I believe this could also be done by Modbus?)
I'm thinking of using Home Assistant and some form of smart relay to control the main circulation pumps based on parameters I receive from the heat pump.
Does anyone have any better suggestions?
Hi Luke,
Have a look at the Nibe manual and see it there is a specified electrical output for running external water pumps. If not then look for an output that indicates that the heat pump is running which could be used to power the water pumps directly or via an interposing relay. There will be a signal from your indoor controller to the outside unit, telling it to run or stop. This may be at 240v AC or a lower control voltage.
It is difficult giving definitive advice without knowing your precise system layout, but it may be that you need to zone the two areas. If you can arrange your system such that either zone, or both, can call for heat and hence start the heat pump. When both zones are up to temperature the heat pump will then be switched off.
Posted by: @derek-mIt is difficult giving definitive advice without knowing your precise system layout, but it may be that you need to zone the two areas. If you can arrange your system such that either zone, or both, can call for heat and hence start the heat pump. When both zones are up to temperature the heat pump will then be switched off.
That sounds like a lot of potential re-plumbing to split the zones, which is outwith my comfort zone. I'm happy enough with the way the rooms are controlled, just need to link the two parts (ASHP and UFH) so that they are working together, currently they are working independently of each other.
If you have radiators in the room where your indoor controller is situated then throttle in the valve slightly to reduce the flow rate, and hence the quantity of heat energy being supplied. This will slow down the rate at which the room warms, and hence give the UFH more time to warm the other areas.
- 27 Forums
- 2,539 Topics
- 59.1 K Posts
- 279 Online
- 6,818 Members
Join Us!
Worth Watching
Latest Posts
-
RE: Octopus Cosy 12 Heat Pump Regret: Incredibly Loud, Poor Heating & Constant Hum - Help!
Balancing is a long process and its possible to mess th...
By JamesPa , 2 hours ago
-
RE: Daikin Altherma 3 LT compressor longevity question
Up to a point yes. However every heat pump (and every ...
By JamesPa , 3 hours ago
-
Thanks everyone for the help, Havenwise now diasbled. q...
By Boycey , 5 hours ago
-
RE: Advice needed after a successful "leftfield" experiment.....
@pauli Depending on whether you can get an EV tariff, I...
By ChandyKris , 6 hours ago
-
-
RE: New Build ASHP Defects - Looking for Advice, Support & Shared Experiences
Is that a single pair only? If so it may be part if th...
By JamesPa , 7 hours ago
-
RE: Solar Power Output – Let’s Compare Generation Figures
@technogeek I think you are correct, but, it didn’t inf...
By Papahuhu , 8 hours ago
-
@batpred, you’re quite right; it does work well. I don’...
By Majordennisbloodnok , 8 hours ago
-
@Mars at the time of writing heating oil is £1.28 / ltr...
By TechnoGeek , 9 hours ago
-
RE: Ecodan Cylinder Possible Weeping Around Thermostat Port
Update: Mitsubishi sent an engineer around. It was li...
By Gruff2001 , 11 hours ago
-
RE: A Smarter Smart Controller from Homely?
@benson Agreed. I believe the COP gains with homely, i...
By Papahuhu , 11 hours ago
-
RE: Samsung Gen 7 16kW Integrated unit Modbus monitoring
The setup for this is a Samsung Modbus card. Connected ...
By antonical , 13 hours ago
-
RE: Forum updates, announcements & issues
@davidalgarve, if the emails are more than roughly a mo...
By Mars , 14 hours ago
-
How to Find All Your Posts and Topics on the Forum – A Quick Guide
If you’ve ever posted something on the forum and then s...
By Mars , 14 hours ago
-
RE: If a heat pump can only heat DHW to 50C then what? Issue with 18KW Heliotherm heat pump
Sorry to hear that but I'm not surprised TBH. Stratifi...
By JamesPa , 15 hours ago
-
RE: Say hello and introduce yourself
@pt151 welcome to the forums, and looking forward to he...
By Mars , 1 day ago
-
RE: Setback savings - fact or fiction?
The answer was in two parts in my reply, the second par...
By RobS , 1 day ago
-
Samsung Gen 7 16kW Integrated unit Modbus monitoring
Looking for some assistance to get modbus monitoring wo...
By antonical , 1 day ago
-
Ecodan control return to Melpump from Havenwise trial. settings check
Hi, Just got control back after being on the hav...
By Boycey , 1 day ago
-
RE: Refrigerant R32, is it now banned in the EU from 1st Jan 2027 for monobloc ASHPs?
I wonder if heat pump manufacturers will tone these sit...
By JamesPa , 1 day ago
-
RE: Who’s Caved and Switched the Heating On Already?
@editor yesterday we used 12kW of electricity for heat,...
By Judith , 1 day ago
-
RE: Rate the quality of your heat pump design and installation
Loss assessments can be a very serious case of GIGO. I...
By JamesPa , 2 days ago
-
RE: Who's your electricity provider and what's your tariff?
@jamespa Just bizarre. This is our data. I really don't...
By antonical , 2 days ago
-
RE: Mitsubishi Ecodan 11.2kW review
I think you said its an 11.2kW model and your house is ...
By JamesPa , 2 days ago


