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Is this a bad installation and is there something wrong with my Samsung heat pump?

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(@david999)
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@transparent they basically say after this it’s concluded and no further discussions, but it’s strange how allegedly samsung are changing the criteria. And of course they have consulted with experts.  But the modifications are the ones I put forward. And they are sticking with 28mm pipe. No idea where this is going but let them do whatever and see how it goes. I think I’m at the end of the road to be honest.


   
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(@ant87)
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@david999 Hi David, that all seems fairly reasonable, and if Samsung have signed off on it and you have that in writing then great. It is alarmingly coincidental how similar it is but hey, if your installer is going to make modifications etc. then I think you have to give them the benefit of the doubt in that they didn't know and will learn from it. An amicable fix is better than court although I may be being naive.

They are correct in that port B is for heating, port A is for hot water. (It's the opposite for boilers).

I have seen homeowners throw installers under the bus for silly little things, and equally homeowners accepting and putting up with a nightmare when the Installer should have been struck off.

I personally will work with anybody who is willing to put an unsuccessful job right and think it must be a kick to the ego in doing so but sometimes everybody needs to work together to get it right, especially if we are going to fit 1000s a year. If they deny all problems and dissappear then that's a different story so I would say take it for what it is and if the end result is what you wanted then atleast you can sit back knowing its all good.

Did you solve your heat pump frosting up issue? The reason I ask is there was a developer near to myself who had a site of Samsungs which all had the correct volume and flow rates and 6 of the units kept frosting up (freezing solid).

Samsung had to come out and update the software on a few of the plots and I am told that the other 3 had the wrong PCB installed. It was a PCB that was meant for units in the middle east and so the units had no defrost logic so they would freeze solid and homeowners had to use hair dryers to defrost them.

Side note: you would want your secondary side to have similar flow rates to your primary side to prevent too much mixing in your buffer, in an ideal world you would have a single pump and use the Samsung controller as your room thermostat for your radiator system on 1 single zone, however this may be creating more trouble than it's worth at this stage.

Oh and the use of plastic on the primary pipework...no! As the internal bore is less than copper and thus will only further reduce your potential output.

This post was modified 3 weeks ago by Ant87

   
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(@david999)
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@ant87 well it seems a compromise and I think you touched on this in that the 35lpm is acceptable as opposed to the 45lpm. Not sure what I can check myself after completion and I know I would obviously look at flow rate, but does the controller display flow and return temp. The velocity would be a simple case of noise I guess. 

I noticed there are no valves either side of the 3 port should I fit valves so I can swap it out if it fails or if I want to fit a better one, it’s a Honeywell and fairly crap I’m told. Doubt they will do that for me so do it when system drained. 

would that email from my installer be sufficient as a signing off by Samsung or should I copy them in and ask for their blessing. 


   
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(@david999)
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Topic starter  

Meant to add the freezing I think was because they had the pump the wrong way around and the other running all the time. The heat pump was running flat out but now it seems a bit less marlin Munro and you can stand in front of it without getting blown over. 


   
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(@ant87)
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@david999 haha atleast the freezing was resolved.

Isolation valves around the 3 port would be nice as long as they are full bore (full flow) although providing you get your flow rates sorted the Honeywell would be less of an issue, they were always very reliable valves although there are better valves out there for this purpose. It's probably not a fair comment to say "not fit for purpose" so if it stayed it's not the end of the world.

The main things will be "Is the house warm, comfortable and costing a reasonable amount to operate" if yes then I would say you're doing ok. It wouldn't be a bad idea for Samsung to confirm just to keep you on the right side of them although they will likely say that it's all down to the installers discretion. Your installer did say they have had conversations with Samsung so I guess it comes down to if that is truly the case. If they have the great as everybody is on the same page.

Realistically you can check your energy in vs energy out to get an idea of efficiency but this can be notoriously inaccurate so I would say that it comes down to comfort and cost. Unfortunately it's the wrong time of the year to confirm however as long as you get your flow rate up on the primary side, then the secondary side can be balanced/tweaked later.

I'm pretty sure that on the controller it will show temperatures and flow rate, if you go on to the controller, enter service mode and go to indoor zone option it tells you flow rate.

If you press the cog button and go on to energy it can give you an idea of efficiency although take it for what it is. 


   
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(@david999)
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@ant87 I think I viewed the energy section once and the history, and it was nothing like what it was actually using but looked good for samsung. 

anyway my engineer has promised to return to check all is well, 384 quids worth and my installer refuses to refund me although they do no repairs and couldn’t diagnose the faults.  So I might pursue that in another direction. 

thank you 👍


   
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(@ant87)
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@david999 I was trying to be lenient on the installers but that's taking the "biscuit".

 

Good luck and post how you get on 👍


   
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(@david999)
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@ant87 I will let you know. And thanks again, everyone.  

might hang about on here, I might be able to pass on some advice to some other poor soul like me. 


   
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(@ant87)
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@david999 the student will become the master 😀


   
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(@david999)
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Joined: 3 months ago
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Topic starter  

@ant87 got Scottish power out today to install my three phase cable, I was linked to the neighbour so he go single phase.  Solar wouldn’t work after they left but geez the neighbours cables are a riot and mine not that much better geez. How much cable do you cram in a box?

IMG 3009
IMG 3013
IMG 3016
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IMG 3015
IMG 3014

   
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Transparent
(@transparent)
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8698 kWhs
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Posts: 1446
 

Thanks for the photos.

Very entertaining.

image

Are all seven photos of your house, or are some of the neighbour's?
Feeding one house from another is called a "looped supply".
In England the DNOs won't allow a looped supply to remain if a house is registered for grid-export from solar panels or storage batteries.

Was it your decision or Scottish Power's that you be upgraded to 3-phase?

I can see the three Service Fuses in the 3rd pic.
Your house is still connected to just one phase.
Did they check to ensure that the neighbour is now fed from a different phase?

 

Save energy... recycle electrons!


   
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(@david999)
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Posts: 164
Topic starter  

@transparent it’s a combination of both houses.  Mine was looped to my neighbour and he refused to be de looped, but regulations won’t allow his cable to run from my house through fire wall to him so was forced.  New cables up drive in three of them.  The one with the mad cable along the facias goes to another neighbour who refused the cable upgrade but turns out the existing cable was faulty so because the digging and laying was done the only alternative was

IMG 3037

along his facia and the neighbours . The power originally came up drive between the 4 houses but because I did my upgrades it all needed replaced. So I’m in the dogs house. 

had Scottish power back out and told them it’s all crap to be honest and coming back to sort it.  What has gone wrong with our industry and these guys are on 600 quid a day, surely that would provoke some pride in the work. They say they don’t work to traditional 18th edition regs either, anything goes it just has to work. 

thats sawdust in that consumer box and it looks like the cables are stripped too short and he caught the insulation.  I’m not having much luck at the minute. The heating guys are out tomorrow and we are not entirely friendly, be interesting to see if it works properly 

 

I need to contact samsung, they said they wanted 35mm pipe and 46lpm flow and allegedly diluted this to 28mm pipe and 35lpm flow. Now I’m sure you guys said that this would be acceptable on one of the posts. But since my trust is zero with the installation I’m going to check. 


   
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