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14Kw Mitsubishi Ecodan ASHP

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(@justinsb)
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@derek-m re: Clowns. Their manager came, who has lots of experience of fitting the monitoring systems. He apologised profusely, sucked his teeth, sighed, ran the missing data cables, set it all up, double checked it all, apologised again, & finally it all started to work as it should have. I don't have the full MMSP package, I only have the Electricity meters - but at least I will get accurate figures on how much juice it's using. I'll try & get all the right numbers to run through your spreadsheets tomorrow.


   
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(@derek-m)
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@justinsb 

Hi Justin,

Sorry, I should have pre-warned you when you told me that the heating had been switched off for a number of hours.

The auto adaptation appears to have been working correctly, in that it measured a large temperature difference between the desired temperature and the actual temperature and therefore ramped up the ASHP to reduce the difference. To keep the ASHP from going full throttle, it would probably have been better to set the desired temperature 1C above the actual, and then as the room temperature stabilised, to increase it by one more degree until the desired temperature was reached.

Dependent upon the temperature of the room, in which the FTC controller is located, with relation to the temperature of the rest of your home. it should now be possible to set your system back to room temp. control without any wild swings.

If the room in which the FTC controller is located, is above or below the temperature in the rest of your home, but varies with them in a consistent manner, then it is just a matter of offsetting the desired temperature on the FTC controller. The FTC controller will be maintaining the temperature in the room in which it is located, by varying the water flow temperature. For best temperature control in your main living area, the the controller should be located there.


   
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 HJD
(@hjd)
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I'm tempted to buy one of the remote units just to see if we can get the auto adaption working properly


   
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(@justinsb)
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Topic starter  

@derek-m ok, that makes sense. Ill try it again, now that I've got the house at a stable temperature. It'll actually be a good test, because the weather today appears to be very similar to yesterday. Cold, wet, dark & miserable. It should give some nice data to compare


   
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(@justinsb)
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Done. The house is apparently at 20°C, as are the master settings on both the Honeywell and FTC6. Meter readings recorded & the switch made. The docs seem to indicate that the curve is more useful for Spring & Autumn, because of the temperature variability. It may be that during bouts of fixed temperature coldness in midwinter, that the mythical auto adaption room setting will turn out to be the most cost effective way to run it.


   
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(@derek-m)
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@justinsb 

Hi Justin,

If my assumptions about auto adaptation are correct, the FTC controller should now maintain a constant indoor temperature at your setting of 20C, probably within +/- 0.1C or 0.2C.

As the name auto adaptation suggests, I suspect the controller will contain a self tuning algorithm, which will periodically recalculate the control parameters, to try to ensure optimum control of the indoor temperature.

I doubt that you will notice much difference in energy consumption, between weather compensation and auto adaptation, but you should get more stable indoor temperatures. This should then allow you to monitor temperature differences between rooms, and make it possible to better balance your system to provide the desired temperatures throughout your home. 

I look forward to seeing the results, particularly if you can measure the indoor temperatures fairly accurately.


   
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(@kev-m)
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Posted by: @derek-m

@justinsb 

Hi Justin,

If my assumptions about auto adaptation are correct, the FTC controller should now maintain a constant indoor temperature at your setting of 20C, probably within +/- 0.1C or 0.2C.

As the name auto adaptation suggests, I suspect the controller will contain a self tuning algorithm, which will periodically recalculate the control parameters, to try to ensure optimum control of the indoor temperature.

I doubt that you will notice much difference in energy consumption, between weather compensation and auto adaptation, but you should get more stable indoor temperatures. This should then allow you to monitor temperature differences between rooms, and make it possible to better balance your system to provide the desired temperatures throughout your home. 

I look forward to seeing the results, particularly if you can measure the indoor temperatures fairly accurately.

So do I. I'm planning to do the same (auto-adaptation).


   
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(@derek-m)
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@justinsb 

Hi Justin,

I'm afraid that you will have to get your solar PV system removed, because since you had your system commissioned I have been getting really poor generation figures. Your system is obviously stealing some of my solar energy, please cease and desist. 😋 


   
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(@justinsb)
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Topic starter  

@derek-m

I'm pleading ignorance, innocence & anything else that I can get away with. Today was truly miserable up this end of Yorkshire & I don't have particularly high hopes for tomorrow either. The sun didn't actually appear to really rise...

image

   
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(@derek-m)
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@justinsb 

The Sun rose, but those pesky clouds got in the way, my system managed 436 Wh today.

Have you asked your wife to go on the roof to clean the panels yet? Maybe that would help. 😀 


   
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(@justinsb)
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Topic starter  

Natch. My EPC was 5 years old, so I had to get a new one. My loft insulation is too thin. It's only 150mm, so I need to get an extra £900 worth to get it up to the level where I can apply for my RHI money...


   
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(@derek-m)
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Posted by: @justinsb

Natch. My EPC was 5 years old, so I had to get a new one. My loft insulation is too thin. It's only 150mm, so I need to get an extra £900 worth to get it up to the level where I can apply for my RHI money...

So how thick does the insulation have to be?


   
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