@derek-m OK, one last question. Using the weather compensation curve, we usually have a screen that looks like this. If we change this to -1 or +1, what does it actually do behind the scenes? If we find out that running it at -1 actually doesn't seem to make the house any colder, but reduces the cost or increases the COP, how do we actually "tweak" the curve to reflect this?
At the moment, my system is set to use a water flow temperature of 45C for an outside air temperature of 0C and a water flow temperature of 20C at an outside air temperature of 20C.
Hi Justin,
I'm afraid I didn't design the system or write the software, so I don't know exactly what action is performed within the inner sanctum of the controller.
Having thought about it, it is probably adding or subtracting to the calculated water flow temperature rather than the desired room temperature, so you may have to change it by say 5, before you see any appreciable change in indoor temperatures. Also it can take several hours before changes in temperature settings are fully achieved, so it is important to make an adjustment and then wait for the system to stabilse before making any further adjustments.
This is what is does. I can look at the flow temp by the minute and moving the curve down 1 appears to reduce the flow temp and the same outdoor temp by 1C. I moved mine down 2 and it made a noticeable difference to the room temps.
@justinsb, if you hold the bottom left button for 2 seconds it goes into edit mode. If you choose the heating (house) symbol you can change the baseline curve.
Interesting because mine gave me details prior to an installer re-visit to sort out the room stat pairing issue. Seems the stat was able to switch on to demand heat but unable to do the reverse so just kept on heating.
Since his visit I cannot access this info.
What can he have changed for this to happen I wonder. More importantly, how do I enable access to the information?
was he the same guy that did the same thing to mine? 🤣
You could try the 'switch the power off, count to 5 and then switch it back on' method of fault correction.
If you do power it all off, then back on again, my installers were very insistent that it should be powered on again in the order of "Inside-Out" - ie, power anything outside off first, then power off the inside bits (ie the FTC Box & Cylinder). Then give it 30 seconds of so to settle. Then power on the Inside bits, then, finally power on the outside bits, like the ASHP.
They said that this was because the ASHP needs to talk to the FTC Box as it starts up. They said all of this with specific relation to Winter power cuts, which often crash the ASHP systems because everything tries to come back online at the same time, when the power comes back on, as opposed to being started in the order that they require.
We're now on Week 3 of the planned 1 week installation, & they have just explained that we're definitely going to extend into Week 4 before we (hopefully) wrap it all up. I think that they're pretty keen on doing whatever they can to stop coming back. However, in their defence, the delays have entirely been down to supply issues, & as soon as they actually got the kit they had it installed quickly & efficiently.
We're now on Week 3 of the planned 1 week installation, & they have just explained that we're definitely going to extend into Week 4 before we (hopefully) wrap it all up. I think that they're pretty keen on doing whatever they can to stop coming back. However, in their defence, the delays have entirely been down to supply issues, & as soon as they actually got the kit they had it installed quickly & efficiently.
@justinb
We also went into week 4 of a 1 week planned installation.
Retrofitted 11.2kw Mitsubishi Ecodan to new radiators commissioned November 2021.
14 x 500w Monocrystalline solar panels.
You could try the 'switch the power off, count to 5 and then switch it back on' method of fault correction.
If you do power it all off, then back on again, my installers were very insistent that it should be powered on again in the order of "Inside-Out" - ie, power anything outside off first, then power off the inside bits (ie the FTC Box & Cylinder). Then give it 30 seconds of so to settle. Then power on the Inside bits, then, finally power on the outside bits, like the ASHP.
They said that this was because the ASHP needs to talk to the FTC Box as it starts up. They said all of this with specific relation to Winter power cuts, which often crash the ASHP systems because everything tries to come back online at the same time, when the power comes back on, as opposed to being started in the order that they require.
I could not find a specified shutdown - startup procedure in the Ecodan manuals, so probably should bow to your installers experience.
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